blew my conrod bearing/bushing this weekend. I have 4.5 gallons on my b01.. im asking cause i want to know if thats normal? I've had other brands some new and some i got used that didnt have a problem and had more than 5 gallons on it. I just need to know if i should be replacing P/S/C ever 4 to 5 gallons.

Mine did the samething last week after 4 gallons...

I had RB's that.have done that before, its good to check the rods after a couple gallons, no matter what engine you use, the conrod takes a beating on break in. Its good to replace the conrod after break in.

trust me bro this isnt my first engine, but this is the only engine I have ever ran other then RB... I only posted so people know to replace the rod before the 4 gallon mark... but what really sucks was the crank pin was trashed too so I had to put a new crank in it... never had to do that before

Thats what im saying. I've had RB, novarossi,JP, etc. and ive never had someting like this happen. I know guys with $200 motors that cant tune go all year without problems. if i pay $300 plus for a motor i would like it to go the season with out this type of stuff.

if anyone want my motor i would sell it for $70. the parts i need on amain will run $160. im sure someone could use it. PM me if you want pics.

Wow, crank pin shot too! I have used about every engine out there, rarely something like that happens, I probably have had that happened to maybe half a dozen engines in my almost 20 years in RC, it really sucks when you have he wrist pin bushing do that, it takes out all sorts of sh*t, rod, piston, and ocassionally a case. If it can happen to an engine, its happened to me.

yeah man, that was a first for me...

thats a strange one??

i have been running the B01T for a few months now and the engine has seen about 3 gallons. I have opted to change the conrod as a precautionary measure, however note that there is zero wear on the crank and the engine still appears to have mechanical pinch.

Is the crank pin slightly discoloured?

I might be wrong but i would assume that for the crank pin to wear @ the 4 gallon mark then this might be attributed to excessive wear due to heat and a lack of lubricant normally caused by running to lean or fuel that has a very low oil content.

I have recently been testing a new fuel in the 25% flavour with a slightly higher oil content - performance wise I have not really noticed any change, however know that more oil will result in the components enjoying a longer life.

I sold my BO1 a few months back and know that the crank pin again looked like new @ the 1.5 gallon mark.

As a rule of thumb I have decided to change the conrod at the 2 gallon mark as the conrod undergoes the most stress through the first gallon + I think all manufacturers recommend changing the conrod @ the 2 gallon mark.

I had a Novarossi +4 a few year ago that i knew had been running a bit lean, the result was that the crank pin seemed to have excessive wear @ the 1.5 gallon mark, there also appeared to be a blue/purple colour around the pin which indicated that it needed more lubricant and lower temps.

I think these engines are excellent and offer one of the best blends of performance against durability and seem to be engineered with the best components.

Here's a couple of pics from a RB WS7 II Conrod that I got before it exploded, Truggy went upside down, full throttle, servo froze open. the crank pin was fine, put a new conrod in the engine, lasted for a few more gallons, think I had about 6 or 7 gallons on that engine.

when i ran these motors both lost the rear bearings... right around the 2 gallon mark.. one just fell apart and the other the balls broke in half... the b01 and .23 motor.. ended taking out the crank.. the piston and sleeve.. and block.. head button.. everything just exploded in the motor... had some good paper weights... motors look good ran very well but did not last like the other high end mills... was disappointed at the time but since have moved on with another company... good luck with the repairs since there are not alot of places to get parts anymore.. unless someone has stepped up to import the motors and parts..

not discolored, not lack of oil, not ran lean... the rod bushing went out, and when I was replacing it I measured the crank pin and it was way out of round so the new rod was loose on the crank..

Then i have to ask, what fuel do you run and can we see a pic of your glowplug.

I now have 6 gallons on my original engine... It is like new inside. No metal pinch and 11 mins of runtime on sidewinder fuel. Never an issue!

I too believe the issues above is due to excessive heat caused by lack of lube. Or premature race tune on an engine that is not broke in enough.

Rody makes an awesome product and is one of the best in quality and materials ever!

It's your rear bearing. The stock bearing is good for a max of 4 gallons. I thought I would check my engine before a long 45 min main and it had just a little slop and it felt a little rough, even to put some slop on the rod and crank. If I had run my engine as it was I probably would have broken something. I would recommend to anyone to at the very least get a ceramic rear bearing. Also a good warm up, there is nothing harder on a engine than flooring a cold engine. I got about 5 gallons on my TQ 501-T.

Realistic runtime while the engine is in it's prime is about 8 minutes stock, my engine is a little past it's peak and has lost some edge and bunt power so I was pitting about 9 so maybe 9:30 to 10:00 would be realistic now but again on an engine that is starting to lose compression, though still holds a good idle, I plan to put it away for a club engine until it doesn't hold an idle then on with a new piston and sleeve.

its RC, things happen. The inside of my motor. I'll replace the P/S/C and butt. I guess i'll replace the bearings since its open.