Yea me to thinking hard about it seen Drake with his and that thing will fly running plus 4 now and love it. Let us know

i race at sea level do i need to remove a shim in the Bonito? thanks

Depends on what Nitro % your burning.

TroyAtUC - the Nova Conrods are indeed pricey but that's the cost for a quality product. I purchased my R7 rod from Absolute Hobbyz. If you're rebuilding, you can sometimes find the R4-R6 rods on Ebay/RCTech for around $25. I rebuilt a P5x and used an R4 rod purchased cheap from a local racer who happened to have a new one lying around.

im burning 30%.

a little Clocked Bonito action....

+ YouTube Video

I didn't know there were other rods that could be used other than the R7. I'll have to read up.

Hi.
I would like to know the big differentiation between Short Stroke vs Long Stroke

engines
Thanks in advance

Bonito showed up today .... Supposed to rain tonight and tommrow, so if it does ill start break n tommrow ,Or if it doesn't rain ill start Sunday

I removed my flywheel on my R21 Nitrotec after a long race weekend and it was a mess there was a good bit of fuel and dirt. I did crank it to make sure there was no fuel left in motor before removing flywheel so i could oil it and clean it up. I only got 2 gallons thru this motor and did a one gallon heat cycle break-in at 230f also I clean up and oil after every race. Please tell this is normal I can't afford another motor and i bought this one due to the fact Nova makes the best bearings in the business. Anyway take a look at this pic that I took of fuel and bearing and give me your opinion. I can hear a tiny/tiny bit of crunch when I spin crank. Thanks AGAIN!

The first nitrotec engines came with the same less than desireable front bearing that the p5xlt comes with and should be changed out to the 17011.

Even as good as novarossi's 17011 front bearing is its not impervious to breaking in your engine grossly over rich which fills the crankcase with excess oil then pushes the oil through the front bearing ruining the seals . Thats why you will see that the break in bible states a break in should be done only slightly rich of race settings

Btw , where the heck are you guys getting the discontinued nitrotecs?

How can I tell which bearing I have in my R21? It runs good I have had only one flameout after break-in and I leaned it some to get temps up before I heat cycled. I think there is alot of fuel this time because I did plug stinger to prime so I could get rid of excess fuel this morning before cleanup from Sat. race. I will pinch fuel line from now on to shut it down instead of plugging stinger and no more priming I guess. Would A-Main sell a discontinued engine without that info in description on site? Thanks again for your help! Edit I think I have the 17011 because I looked at the two on a main and the p5 bearing seems to be a lighter color of blue and my bearing and the 17011 are a dark blue. But it could be just the pics are the new(17011) and old bearings the same color or different shades of blue?

if your bearing is the stock one that came with the engine its not a 17011

contrare mofrare , the very early ones had the 17004 that comes in p5xlt , they changed after team drivers were having issues with the bearing to the 17011 .

i would bet it has the 17011 but it doesnt look like it is from the pics , as i said earlier no bearing is impervious to a grossly over rich break in

They need to quit using that inferior bearing anyway. Novarossi needs to make a running change to the p5 too....