How is it better, the Paloma is doing over 11 minutes and has lots of power according to this thread and post #74
https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad...edition-5.html
And seems to be running for 7+ gallons.
Is the rolling able to do 12-13 minutes?
My track is technical with no long straights and running a buggy.

Thanks

41005/9901 makes for a fairly easy to drive setup and super easy to tune,41001/9901 makes it agressive and quite punchy. 41021/9901 gets a decent runtime but feels a little flat. 41001/2096 i really like but gets a little less runtime than the 9901 setups.
my buddy has the 41021/2096 setup on his in buggy and it seems to tame it down quite well to run in buggy

keep off parts
 

Hi

I have an old keep off 21-4 engine. I've heard that I can use mito 4 parts. Looking in the exploded views the rod, the piston pin and the front bearing are the same. Anyone know if I can use the piston, the sleeve and the rear bearing?

thanks

Can i remove shims for from the Mantra? If so which one?

I wouldn't drop it more then 0,05 mm with a stock head, so you should replace a 0,2 mm shim with a 0,15 mm.

Hey guys, in the process of building a new Truggy that I am going to make it an on-road truck. Stiff suspension, thick diffs, modded engine, Alum C-cups, tonnns more. I am in the market for a new engine, just not sure what I am going to pick up. It's going to be a drag/on-road Truggy, but not going to just throw handling out the window just for some extra MPH on the radar. I need suggestions on what to put in there for sheer poweeeer and I want the reliability of a Novarossi. Should I be looking at the on-road .21's or should I be looking at the .28's for the weight of a truggy? Thanks guys, hope someone can point me on the right path.

Hello
And the following friends have a Novarossi Engine Rebrand (RB Products).
After a few years with the engine stopped, yesterday to remove the screw that holds the carburetor to the block, I split the screw head, and now where can I find a screw that of in my RB, a Novarossi screw is compatible?
And to dismantle the carburetor the rubber that has the left side in the engine simply fell apart in two, if you buy the rubber Novarossi gives in my RB?


Thank You

Yes, the screw is standard on all novarossi models, you can also try to get an M2.5 screw which it actually is.

[QUOTE = Roelof; 15291425]. Sim, o parafuso é padrão em todos os modelos Novarossi, você pode também tentar obter um parafuso M2.5 que ele realmente é [/ QUOTE]

Thanks Roelof, I'll try to buy here in a tool house.
And in relation to the needle rubber of the carburetor LSN has to be even Novarossi right?

Thank You
*

The O-rings are also the same. In case of emergency on the track I will cut a thin slice of a fuel tube what works perfectly as an O-ring

Alright so I'm trying to get my 28-8 completely tuned. I thought I had it dialed until today I took it it and got it up to temp and made several high speed passes. The idle was pretty much a 3 step instead of a 2 step. If I had let it come in and sit for 4 seconds or longer after a WOT pass, it would be loaded up and kind of sluggish once I hammered the throttle for the first couple of feet. From my knowledge, I should be able to bring it in and let it idle for 10 or more seconds and still get a clean pull unless it's an excessive amount of time idling. So I leaned my LSN and backed off on the idle screw. My idle gap is somewhere between .5 and .7. I eventually got it to where it could idle longer than 5 seconds without loading up and still having a clean launch with a very light trail of smoke after hammering it until about the midrange it started to have a more noticeable smoke cloud. Am I going in the right direction or am I possibly going away from the tune? The idle seems to be getting closer to a 2 step at the current tune.