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Hows your fuel tank? Igniter fully charged? When you tip the car to the side does fuel pour out the pipe? I had a broken fuel tank and i had a similar issue. The tank would hold pressure and would weep from the seam but some how the fuel system was over pressured and dumping fuel in the motor
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The tank was new. It only has the 2qts that I have ran through the motor. Can different pipes change the tune of the LSN? I have a 021 manifold with 9886 pipe on it now. I do have a new 9901 pipe as well. Maybe I just need to lean it out more on the LSN. It just seems like I am leaning it out a lot. 3-4 turn in from flush. Maybe I’m just over thinking it
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Oh and yes there seems to be a lot of fuel coming out of the pipe |
You’re probably getting some things mixed up. Always start rich and work lean. Ignore how many turns in or out you are - the engine doesn’t care how many turns the needle is as long as it’s in the butter zone.
Easy method to tune - start out fat on both needles. Start with high speed and get it set satisfactorily. I recommend to tune to peak (perfect transition from idle to WOT) on the high and then once set work the idle. Get the idle set where it is slightly loaded up after 10-15 seconds of idling and a nice easy cleanout. Now go back to the main needle and adjust it a tiny bit richer. When your idle is set correctly, it should drop a degree of temperature after every couple seconds during a longer idle. |
I have tried the old tank. I replaced all the lines again. Could an air leak cause these issues? I rest everything back the stock settings. I leaned out out the LSN till the engine would stay running but it would lean bog when I applied some throttle. |
Originally Posted by egobrkr
(Post 15230669)
I have tried the old tank. I replaced all the lines again. Could an air leak cause these issues? I rest everything back the stock settings. I leaned out out the LSN till the engine would stay running but it would lean bog when I applied some throttle. |
I have it set to .7mm. I have a paper clip that is .7mm |
Try going to .5-.6mm if the engine has some time on it. I set my engines to .5mm from new and adjust from there. Usually they end up being happy in the .5-.6mm range.
You should also make sure you’re not trying to get a solid tune on it until you have at least a whole tank through the engine so it’s thoroughly heatsoaked. If you try to tune it too soon, your tune will be off because the engine leans out a little bit as it heats up. |
I am going to send the engine to AMR. I think I lost compression some how. I’m going to send it in to confirm or deny if there is something wrong with the engine. |
Just wondering, those of you running the Nova. Are any of you running or tried the Ielasi Tuned Hammer 7T Novarossi at all? I’m thinking of purchasing one to run in my Mugen. What’s the power like? And run time? |
there is no such as thing as a standard setting with idle gap , lsn ,hsn settings on any engine.......
your cars fuel system and the fuel you use (mostly oil package) will depict how your needles will need to be adjusted more than anything .... period !!! you will learn through trial and error for the most part all different manufacturers have different materials they use with different rates of expansion and it greatly affects how the engine will need to be tuned ..... there are sooooo many variables its ridiculous happy motorin' |
It’s been very common to me in helping others to get their engines running properly where they have difficulties getting a good needle setting and finding the problem stems from an improper idle gap. For this reason I always recommend starting tight and working wider to find the sweet spot for the same reason one would start the needles rich and work lean on the needles. I’ve also found that an engine that isn’t thoroughly warmed up will almost never hold its tune and will usually end up being lean.
Just my experience. YMMV. |
Originally Posted by SlowLST2
(Post 15231795)
It’s been very common to me in helping others to get their engines running properly where they have difficulties getting a good needle setting and finding the problem stems from an improper idle gap. For this reason I always recommend starting tight and working wider to find the sweet spot for the same reason one would start the needles rich and work lean on the needles. I’ve also found that an engine that isn’t thoroughly warmed up will almost never hold its tune and will usually end up being lean.
Just my experience. YMMV. |
I can see where my advice could be construed as “put it there and leave it there”, but that isn’t how I meant it to come across. My settings are initial only as every application and engine is different. Just to be clear.
And for the Ricky Bobby type RC Racers... Don’t run a super fat idle needle. Or a 1mm idle gap. You will probably have problems. LoL. |
Originally Posted by egobrkr
(Post 15230610)
I just went through my nitro buggy cleaning and refreshing it. I have not ran it in about 3 weeks. The engine was broken in on an EBIS and ran great for 2qts. It is an Adam Drake edition novarossi 5port. I was using the hot #5 plug that came with the engine. I replaced the fuel and pressure line and put in the new CTO6 medium plug. I tried to start it and make sure everything is good and the engine will not stay running unless the glow igniter is on. I tried to lean out the engine to see if that was the problem and it is not. Any help with this would be great. I have never had this issue before so not sure where to start. I have tried 2 different #5 plugs and 1 different #6 plug to see if it was the plug also |
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