I am sorry, but here is were engines actually goes bad. Running it out of fuel and store for a week, corrosion will start eating on the bearing races and balls if you do not have a bearing with cceramic balls. I have done the exact same thing and i did not understand why my engine ate bearings. Not shure why but it seems that when running Byron fuels, its better to leave fuel inside the engine rather than burn it out.

Also, from my experience and many other racers here in Norway, the Byron xxnitro, 8 and 9% oil fuels, does reduce the longevity of the engine. 25/11 is the best compromise from Byrons and is a very good fuel.

As soon as the bearing starts making noises, you should stop running the engine as small metal particels eats up your piston.

Regards airfilters, i never run more than 50 minutes on an airfilter, ever. Even on clean tracks i change them frequantly. Airfilter oils used should be methanol safe. Alot of the motorcross airfilter oil is not made for this. If you stop you engine on the pipestinger, fuel blows backwards through the carb and oils is desolved. Next time you start your engine on that raceday, youre pulling dust inside your engine.


If you please could post pictureres, i like to see picturers of glowplugs used, crank and a pic of rear engine bearings. Also the exhaust side of the piston would be interesting.

Novarossi usually is very very good. The only thing i know could be something hat needs to be changed often is the front bearings. The 17011 is very very good, but the other ones gets worn out. (it does on OS, REDS and other engines too, so the quality of the standard Nova bearing is not any worse than others, it just the 17011 is alot better tahn evryting else) I use the 17011 bearing in my OS engines... When you engine starts acting up and you need to chase the tune, try and spray brakeclean between you flywheel and front bearing. if your engine stops, your front bearing is shot. I would recomend getting the BUKU front bearing cap and run this from your engine is new. I killed two OS engines from sucking dirt through the front bearing. Never erver fond out were the dust came from as there were no signs of dust inside the carthorat or airfiler neck.

I have ran my keep off 4 for probably more than 5 or 6 gallons without ever opening up or maintaining, nor have I ever used after run oil. She still runs like a champ but compression getting a bit low so getting it resized. On every single novarossi I have had I never ever replaced a single rod nor bearings nor did i ever clean the internals, nor did I ever use after run oil. I have messed up proper break in, ran too lean at times ran over 310 degrees but the damn thing never dies. Its the most heavy duty reliable engines I have ever used. The only cons I feel is fuel mileage. Novas arent the best when it comes to fuel mileage. Not everyone drives like Drake. The quality of novarossi engines are true craftsmanship.

3 key things i make sure to do is front Buku cap, tightly fit air filter, and byrons fuel.

Just got the P5xlt16 for 2017 haven't broke in yet anyone run this engine yet?

Good to see novarossi adding some DLC coated cranks to there engines. Tesla T1 Buggy nitro engine -NeoBuggy.net ? Offroad RC Car News

i have ran DLC nova cranks for years, you do not notice any difference in runtime or performance. We got DLC cranks in OS V-specs from RECAB, France in 2005-6. Not a performance advantage, but the engines suddenly lasted more than 2 gallons befre the crank was worn out.

I am talking about there current line of engine.Yeah they use it on one or two different engine back then...I didnt say any think about runtime or performance in my stayment,But if you think about it you do have some performance advantage,In that you can run that engine leaner to get better run time. The crank pin & conrod will not wear or over heat from the less oil to those parts.Just my thoughts about DLC.

The old Drake edition ?
 

Is this the old "Drake" engine now that he is gone ?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...k-3500/p576744

That's a p5 with a mito carb,the drake motor had a 14.5mm crank

It's just a p5xlt '16.

The ProTek doesn't appear to have the silicone ramped crank of the '16

The protek is just a S21P5XLT with a different carb.

Looks like it...a 3 needle carb from the Clio vise the 2 needle on the P5. Don't care much for that 3 carb anyway...

When it comes to carb inserts, is it safe to say the larger the insert the larger the tuning window is? I seem to remember being told that smaller inserts gave a smaller tuning window. As in small insert requires smaller carb adjustments, larger insert required larger adjustments. Is this correct thinking or not?

Tuning window is larger, yes. But i do not compleatly agree that you can make larger adjustments. Yes, you can make larger adjustments, but i would still make smaller adjustments. I did get some help in France at a euros event and the guy from Novarossi made very small adjustments at a time. maybe a minute max two. I have taken that with me when i tune engines;-)

Ok, guys,
I'm used to and like the feel of the 21-4 c team motor with 9901 /42021 combo.

I'm looking at the Elite 5 with 2096/42021 combo.

Besides more top end, how would the bottom end and economy compare?

Thanks