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Originally Posted by capcept
(Post 14145072)
so the bearings seem ok, but dont seem ok.. if that makes any sense. they are smooth but there is a point while turning them they seem a little off.. if i place my ear up to the block i can hear at a point while turning the crank that something is not smooth.
After the engine is apart, you need to put some pressure against the rear bearing with your finger as you rotate it back, and forth. Even with a lot of force, the bearing should feel perfectly smooth. |
Thanks Guys!, im goiing to replace the beraings, applying pressure make its worse..
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ok, can anyone give me any insight on what a novarossi top elite 5 motor performs like? I am thinking of getting one as a back engine but I would like to know if they're decent motors first..
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Originally Posted by NitroLuver
(Post 14146322)
ok, can anyone give me any insight on what a novarossi top elite 5 motor performs like? I am thinking of getting one as a back engine but I would like to know if they're decent motors first..
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Originally Posted by Jerm13
(Post 14146580)
If you ever ran a P5 or Clio..... Its like that. But more aggressive all around. Can be tuned from an easily controllable running buggy mill to full on BEAST mode with an aggressive clutch and pipe set-up.
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Originally Posted by NitroLuver
(Post 14146730)
ok cool, thanks for the info I found one for a really good price but I didn't know much about it
Pretty much a p5 but the main differences I see are the cnc domed piston and 15010 crank. Looks like the 15010 crank was originally from one of their discontinued .21 rally engines. |
Originally Posted by bash bros
(Post 14147103)
Yeah you can find them pretty cheap on fleabay.. even cheaper than the p5xlt's are selling for.
Pretty much a p5 but the main differences I see are the cnc domed piston and 15010 crank. Looks like the 15010 crank was originally from one of their discontinued .21 rally engines. |
i love my elite 5 i'm going to try a smaller restrictor this weekend to take some of the top in out of it. it was in my truggy at first and even with the 8mm insert it was getting almost 11 minutes and i could't ask for power without starting to be too much. she's a screamer
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Hey guys hoping you can help me out. I've almost got a perfect race tune on my Keep Off 7 with buku clutch, medium/hot plug and 9886/41001 pipe set up. If I warm it up and make a few moderate passes and come back in it idles good and consistent. But if I try to really rip it and open it up and stretch its legs, as soon as I come back in and let it idle the idle is lower and weaker and keeps getting lower and lower until it dies after only 12 seconds or so, sometimes less time. The trouble is if I lean the LSN anymore and lower the idle a bit, it will come back in with a HIGH idle way to strong. So Im at the point now with the idle and LSN set just before it would idle way high and strong after a high speed pass and dies after 10-12 seconds ONLY after high speed pass. Correct me if Im wrong but it sounds like my carb is out of balance and I should re tune? It sounds like my idle gap is still too big in turn giving me an improper LSN setting. I'm not sold on that theory yet tho because I tried leaning the LSN more and dropping the idle but that doesn't even help the idle after a high speed pass it stays the same! That should strengthen the idle and make it more consistent but it doesn't :weird:, the idle would still get weaker and die out after a high speed pass its so frustrating. I hope I don't have any air leaks. I just ordered a new tank too. What do you guys think?
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Originally Posted by sn47som1
(Post 14148243)
Hey guys hoping you can help me out. I've almost got a perfect race tune on my Keep Off 7 with buku clutch, medium/hot plug and 9886/41001 pipe set up. If I warm it up and make a few moderate passes and come back in it idles good and consistent. But if I try to really rip it and open it up and stretch its legs, as soon as I come back in and let it idle the idle is lower and weaker and keeps getting lower and lower until it dies after only 12 seconds or so, sometimes less time. The trouble is if I lean the LSN anymore and lower the idle a bit, it will come back in with a HIGH idle way to strong. So Im at the point now with the idle and LSN set just before it would idle way high and strong after a high speed pass and dies after 10-12 seconds ONLY after high speed pass. Correct me if Im wrong but it sounds like my carb is out of balance and I should re tune? It sounds like my idle gap is still too big in turn giving me an improper LSN setting. I'm not sold on that theory yet tho because I tried leaning the LSN more and dropping the idle but that doesn't even help the idle after a high speed pass it stays the same! That should strengthen the idle and make it more consistent but it doesn't :weird:, the idle would still get weaker and die out after a high speed pass its so frustrating. I hope I don't have any air leaks. I just ordered a new tank too. What do you guys think?
Reset your needles to factory settings. Its the easiest and doesn't cost you any money. I would rather run way too rich than lean. Never herd of a motor letting go because it had too much lubrication. First, set your Idle gap, then your low end then your high side needle. If everything is set correctly, and your idle is still wacky... replace the tank and pressure lines. Also check your pipe coupler and gasket to make sure they are not degraded. That will do it too. Good luck. |
Originally Posted by sn47som1
(Post 14148243)
What do you guys think?
I can tune my truggy to run just fine in a wide open parking lot with a lot of wot pulls, but plop it down on a track and it will be blubbering rich and just sputter along. Tuning for the type of track and conditions is very important. Big track with lots of long straights is usually hsn = rich side, shorter track usually = hsn on the lean side Sounds like for what you're trying to do the hsn is a little too lean, and the lsn is probably a bit on the rich side along with too much of an idle gap. I'd think that you're running a little lean at wot then when you let off the throttle the idle wants to hang up until the lsn can "catch it's breath" so to speak, but by then it's metering fuel on the rich side and loading up quickly. I've found Novas really run best when you run the hsn as rich as you can, and the lsn as lean as you can.... while still maintaining good throttle response and an appropriate amount of top end. Once the idle gap is set it should drop down right down to a nice smooth idle. |
UPDATE:
I ran again today. I changed pipes from the 9886/41001 to a 2058. Things got better for sure. The idle is now easier to tune and more consistent but it still has a low tendency only after a high speed pass. I too think I'm a bit lean on the HSN. Ill have to keep fine tuning. I'm tuning on a straightaway dirt road next to a christmas tree farm. The guys at the track never up keep it and take forever in between layout changes so its usually not ready for tuning which sux. Im really not a big fan of the Nova carbs they are TOO sensitive and most people don't have the time to really learn to optimally tune them because it takes time there's no shortcuts that can be taken unless someone very experienced does it for you. I prefer to do it all myself to learn the ins, outs and exceptions to the rule. All in all I'm very close to a good tune thanks to all you guys on here, Maximo and the magical 2058 pipe. The performance is awesome and the run time cant really be beat and for sure is better than the 86 pipes. I need to gear down to 48/13 to get this 7 port to get thru its power quicker then it will be....spectacular. |
Originally Posted by Jerm13
(Post 14148268)
It does sound like your tune is off more than anything. You keep saying you are leaning it out. Have you tried to richen it?
Reset your needles to factory settings. Its the easiest and doesn't cost you any money. I would rather run way too rich than lean. Never herd of a motor letting go because it had too much lubrication. First, set your Idle gap, then your low end then your high side needle. If everything is set correctly, and your idle is still wacky... replace the tank and pressure lines. Also check your pipe coupler and gasket to make sure they are not degraded. That will do it too. Good luck. |
From wat u described, i suspect the hsn too lean, try richen 3hours n make few wot pass, thats d trick, long lsn tuning common mistake. By d way, retune lsn a bit, should be close
Originally Posted by sn47som1
(Post 14148647)
UPDATE:
I ran again today. I changed pipes from the 9886/41001 to a 2058. Things got better for sure. The idle is now easier to tune and more consistent but it still has a low tendency only after a high speed pass. I too think I'm a bit lean on the HSN. Ill have to keep fine tuning. I'm tuning on a straightaway dirt road next to a christmas tree farm. The guys at the track never up keep it and take forever in between layout changes so its usually not ready for tuning which sux. Im really not a big fan of the Nova carbs they are TOO sensitive and most people don't have the time to really learn to optimally tune them because it takes time there's no shortcuts that can be taken unless someone very experienced does it for you. I prefer to do it all myself to learn the ins, outs and exceptions to the rule. All in all I'm very close to a good tune thanks to all you guys on here, Maximo and the magical 2058 pipe. The performance is awesome and the run time cant really be beat and for sure is better than the 86 pipes. I need to gear down to 48/13 to get this 7 port to get thru its power quicker then it will be....spectacular. |
Originally Posted by sn47som1
(Post 14148654)
Thx but what your saying doesn't have much validity since at no time is it good to run really rich as most that run these kinds of mills are performance minded. Running very rich suuuuuuux....
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