Hard anodized...might be cool if done right. What details do you have on the process, color, etc? Anyone remember 10 years ago when the factory offered hard coat pipes? And then there were the aftermarket process with a black coating on the pipe.

Factory Hard Coat Pipe...
http://home.comcast.net/~rc-driver/R...052008_001.jpg

After market black looked great when new...
http://home.comcast.net/~rc-driver/R...52008_001a.jpg

But unfortunately once the black coated pipes were a gallon or so used, the black turned to bronze...
http://home.comcast.net/~rc-driver/R...052008_001.jpg

Looking for some opinions.... for the keep-off -4, what restrictor has been successful that is a good compromise between power and fuel economy?

I ran the 5.4mm restrictor but it seemed to affect the power too much... so much so that I had a hard time making a double on a track. The next day, on another track, I switched to 6.5 and it was noticeably better from the power perspective, and seemed to be able to pull off 10 minutes if I was cutting it close. I was just curious what others have been using as a balance. I was going to try the 6 to see if it was any better.

Thanks.

I personally like the 6.5 on a track that has 35-40 second laps with layouts where you can use a little extra power. I've also used a 6mm and felt the difference in power, and the tuning window gets smaller with smaller venturis. I'm also right on the edge of 10 minute pits (I easily pitted at 10 minutes at Nitro Challenge, but on my loose home track, 10 minute pits are cutting it close).

I started using other methods to get runtime without having to go to a smaller venturi such as making sure you are very close to the legal fuel limit of 125CC, I use an exhaust cooler (not sure if I've noticed a huge difference on this one, but it seems to give me an extra 20-30 seconds), and the big one is throttle control, a good tune, and the right pipe/header combo. If I'm limiting wheel spin and I have a good crisp (but not too lean) engine, then 10 minutes with a 6.5 can be done fairly easily on most tracks.

any special considerations breaking in a BTT-A? pretty straight forward on tuning?

about to get a p5 for my buggy and wanted opinions on a few things.

1)for pipe would the 2096 or the 9901 be the better pipe with the 41021 header for a more smooth power band, im still a newer driver so I don't need the ridiculous top end just yet.

2) for break in what venturi should i use- the one I plan on running or is there a better recommendation (ie. no venturi or smallest venturi), I plan on using the heat cycle method.

3)and what is a good venturi to start with

You will hear a few different opinions from different groups but imo one of the most suited pipe combos for that engine or almost any engine in buggy is 2096/41021 , use 8mm for first 1/2-1 gallon of fuel (more air , more fuel, more oil) then I would recommend a 7mm restrictor unless you wanna try a 6.5mm up to you

Just my opinion , I have been known to actually race rc cars though ;)

I just picked a P5 and will be breaking it on this weekend. I have the 9901/41021 combo. This was the answer I was kinda looking for. Thanks!

+1 this is exactly how I am running mine. The new CLIO makes great power and is pretty impressive.

What about the new clio p5 in truggy Ty?

ThANKS FOR THE HELP

Absolutely...very good truggy engine. In my experience the 2096/021 combo has worked well on various types of tracks in a truggy.

There is only one way to do Hard Anodizing "right" and that is to leave it uncolored/undyed and naturally gray like the factory-finish pipes you remember. It's a smooth gray/lacquer gray depending on the alloy. That color is just a byproduct of the process and will always maintain that color tone.

You can dye a HA part black, but the dye eventually leaches out like you saw/experienced before. Because the cell structure is smaller/tighter in the TypeIII process, the dye doesn't stay in as well as regular Type II process (colored anodizing). Thus you get the "bronze" look since the natural color is basically ergal gray.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-sets-new.html

I would avoid the 2096 in truggy as it is generally a buggy pipe for mid to top-end power and would soften your bottom end too much. My recommendation would be to go with a 9901 or 9853 instead.

Guys I am trying to figure out what size bearings the mugen BT4 and BT5 use front and rear?
From my research it looks like the BT4 Uses the 17011 Front 7x19x6.3 and the, 16800 14x25.8x6 Rear
The BT5 I can't seem to find an exploded view on so I looked at the view of the P5XLT and it shows the same bearing setup as the BT4 but I know that cant be right because the front bearing in that motor looks nothing like the front bearing in the BT4. If I am correct I believe both motors use the 16800 rear bearing but please correct me if I am wrong. I am trying to place an order so I have the bearings on hand just in case one goes.

the front bearing will work, its a patented design by novarossi, just be careful when putting it in the engine, because its a 6.3 the inner race protrudes, and you will want to put the force on the outer race not the inner to insert it..


not sure of rear bearing size

just found the exploded view that i have.. its the same rear bearing

Same in both engines for sure