No

Novarossi plugs ?
 

What's the difference between the Novarossi ...TGC and ...TGH plugs? I have a plus-4.

The differrence in the plugs is the opening that the filament sits in. The TGC plugs have bigger opening which allows for easier tuning I believe. Both plugs can be ran in your motor though. C5 or C6 will work depending upon the climate you are in.

So I have a Plus-4 BTT engine that Ive run around 1½ gallons and Im having some issues with it I gotta say. Ive ran OS in the past with no issues at all, but Im really struggling finding a tune on this engine.
The problem seems to be like. First of all it takes forever for it to heat up, I have to warm it up in the pits for like 5 minutes first and then drive an additional 3-4 laps before it stops bluddering on the straight.
After its heated up properly it runs but still feels like its running a bit rich, however, the temperature is good and feels like I cant really run it leaner cause itll get too hot.
So today I was fiddling with it alittle and decided to try and lean it alittle, what happend was that it randomly stalled 3 times within 2 tanks of fuel, just for no apparent reason but it ran much better and had much more power.
I richened it alittle again and changed the plug to a 7 instead of a 6, just to be able to drive. And it didnt stop but at the same time I drove almost 6-7 laps with it feeling rich on the straight, not super rich but you know, some what reduced powerwise.
After those 6-7 laps it started to run better while it got hotter until I ran out of fuel and decided enough for today.

Now Im hoping someone can shed some light on why its acting like that. Im not an expert at tuning engines, but normally I just have a hard time getting the idle right but the idle isnt the problem here, so it feels like its not a tuning issue but Im not ruling it out either.
I should also say that its been acting like this since it was new, so its not something thats suddenly appeared. Its always been difficult to find a good tune and always taken a really long time to heat up and always been feeling rich even if its been okay temperature wise.

sounds fat on the bottom

Hi

I would say too rich on the top... :sneaky:

Whats too hot? :) Everything is relative.

One way to set the HSN correct:
Stay with the #6 plug. Lean the top until you can hear the engine runs "clean", when you run WOT in the air (e.g. preventing nose landing). Start rich and go from there with small adjustment at a time.
After that you can fine tune the LSN and idle speed.

People who don´t know the potential of these engines, often sets the top too rich and too lean in the bottom, and think they have a very powerfull engine. They are only watching half of the power of them... :)... and has flame-outs...

Take your time alone on the track, so you can hear your engine. Once you know how the engine should sound and feel, you will not have future issues.

Even though my P5 wasnt too bad for me since it was my first Nova, but two things really helped me out a lot. first was this video with bernard from racing experience, the second was the tuning bible. Houston had made it clear that once you go OS plug, Stay OS plug, but it is fine to switch between OD and Nova Plugs. Here is the link for the video
http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/news...p?storyid=7253

As I said if I lean it it stalls randomly. The only way I could prevent it from stalling was to richen in both top and bottom and increase the idle a bit.
It does feel like the idle is too high now though as I get a bit of an unstable idle.
Its also weird because Im not getting much more than 7 minutes on a tank, which is way too low, causing me to believe that its still running rich, so why is it flaming out randomly when I lean it.

And I know how the engines are supposed to feel, Ive been doing this for many years, but Ive ran OS engines in the past and theyve been much easier to tune. Everything tells me that its running rich on both ends, but as I said, if I lower the idle and lean it on both top and bottom itll flame out randomly.
And I put the 7 plug in because it was very hot outside and I figured itd reduce the temperature somewhat.

you want a 5 or 6 nova plug and or a od97t noting eles.
sounds like you got to cold plug and to make power you got lean the motor out. so try a warmer plug

Id say mine takes about a lap to get warmed up after warming it up before hand. I think on the bench you want it to get to at least 180. If it just stalls while going wide open then its too lean, if when you let off for a turn the idle is probably too low. Your problem before seems to be just too rich in general. How deep are your needles from flush right now? Also how hot is it before and when it was stalling? Its not uncommon for the engine to read 270-300 with an exergen temp gun when it goes all the way to the plug. The engine is not necessarily running hot but the temp gun goes all the way to the plug so it will read hotter than other engines. What is the temperature outside while running?

I had a 6 plug in it, thats when it kept stalling. It ran with the 7 but not well.

New heads will temp around 270-290 when properly tuned

Reason: the new heads put the temp probe teally really close to the glow plug

Use c5tgc for most all conditions , use c6tgc when you are running in low humidity above 95°

yep to cold of a plug so the motor idles weird.

Well mine was more around 250ish, cause thats what my OS engines have been running at with the same tempgun. But yea maybe youre right the Nova engines heads are more open where the plug sits so it might be measuring against the coil.
And now that I think about it the times its stalled have been when Ive let go of the throttle so the idle was probably a bit low, I did increase that though but I think I overdid it alittle.
Guess Ill put a new 6 plug in it and see if I can lean it on both ends and then maybe decrease the idle just alittle from my previous adjustment and see where that takes me.

I dont have the car inhere so I cant see what the needles are like, but I know the lowspeed is probably a millimeter or so in from flush.

Usually my low is about flush or slightly in or out and the high speed is about .5mm in. You might be way too lean on bottom and too rich on top.

Dont know, the idle was stable with the 6 plug, when it was just idling. But stalled when I let off the throttle sometimes entering a corner. Unfortunately there was too many cars on the track for me to hear if it stopped from lack of fuel or bogged down, but it felt more like just a flameout.
Think Im gonna need to buy me a few 5 plugs cause I dont have any at all. I used the P3 at all times on my OS engines. Suppose I can put a P3 in this aswell cause I know that works.

c5tgc:nod:


richen low speed 2 hrs , turn idle up a little , leave top until get it on the track then run it until fully warmed up , come in , check idle , if engine has a slightly rich idle up then comes down to nice steady idle , your good to tune the top , lean on hsn until you like the high speed , then fine tune lsn and idle adjust ;)

has the btt already have a factory silicone filled crank?:confused:

Just changed the front bearing today.When i took it out it feel a bit gritty so yeah it does suck dirt like u said.Other than that its all good.:nod:
Just a few more question for u if u dont mind..Why do u recommend .65/.7mm head shim on p5xlt?Less shim is for more torque and more shim is for more top is that right?Im running stock at the moment but it has so much torque already.Not sure if i need anymore than that.But i do need more top if i can coz the track im racing have two very long straight.Should i add more shims to achieve that?
Also do u know is the losi RE12 is similar to novarossi pipe?Its recommended for nova engines and the shape look a like too.Thanks

Does anyone know off hand if a connecting rod from a nova 28-7t fit in the plus4? Part numbers are different but that does not necessarily mean anything of course.

here is a video for you Nova fans !!!

+ YouTube Video

Thats ridiculous!:weird::sneaky::D

IIIIIINNNNNSAAAAAAANE!!!:batman:

Does anyone have crank for a FMS thats in good working condition with little to zero slop for salel? Also will a Torenero crank work on a FMS? PM me please with what ya got. Thanks!

Im also looking for a crank for a p5 too thats in good condition for sale. PM if you do please. Thanks..

I think I know somebody ;)

Can someone else chime me on this please..cheers

shimming has more to do with a "sweet spot" in the combustion , relating to the volume of the combustion chamber in the head button , distance from piston to glow plug (ignition source as well as the nitro) , exhaust port timimg and intake timing as well as the relation the intake/exhaust have to each other which creates the "blowdown timing" number . so ya see its not really "just" the heighth of the shimming as well as many parts of the equation , i refer to the shimming heighth in a general term because i hate getting really technical and sh!t :lol: just too much work ;) i know what makes these engines tick and how to get what i want out if them in terms of performance :nod:


so if you are going to use 25% fuel i would recommend shimming .60-.70mm in that range , yo can even drop down to .55mm but will require some expert tuning and stuff ;)

Does anyone know if the older GO crank will work on the older P5? I was told alot of the parts are compatable with these 2 engines. If someone would chime in I'd sure appreciate it.

I recently bought 21-4c team and need pipe for that , will dynamite 053 a proper choice, I'm a little short on budget for 9901/21. And which plug for high humidity and around 90 degree ambiance temp. Any help will be much appreciated.

That Bonito is sick man. looks like it has alot of grunt but still lays the power down nice..good mid to top as well!! My Toro Nero only had a simular power band after it was modded...

Just got new R21 Nitrotec/Nova mill and need some info.
 

I have started 1/8 scale nitro racing about three months ago but not real sure on break in method for R21 Nitrotec. Which I know it's Losi branded but it's a Novarossi. Also which Nova mill is most similar to the R21? I read instructions on running in but the recommended fuel would be difficult for my to get I usually use 30% Odonnell Speed Blend. A friend told me that I should use different fuel for break in other than Speed Blend and I wanted to see what some exp. Novarossi mill racers use and the method also. I wish i could just use Speed Blend because it's rough on the wallet to order fuel online but it's rougher to ruin new mill! Anybody tips/info/help for future Nova lover! I hope there's not to much difference in power than the Ninja jx.21 I got with buggy it has 7 gallons thru it thats why I got R21 I am sending Ninja for pinch and bearings. Also I did run 1/10th nitro SCT for a year so I have decent tunning ability.Thanks!

well, what i do is that i get the Byron lubebooster and put 2% of that oil in the first gallon of fuel. It is a very good castor oil!!

If i can npot get that oil, i go to the phamacy and buy resin oil. that is very expensive here in Norway, but it is still better than running a low oil contents fuel when running in. I did use the Byron 25/9 and that is not enough oil in my book. I still had 2 gallons left, got a new piston/sleeve and used 2% of catsor. Voila, great fuel and very good for the enigne...

I broke mine in on odonnel speed blend 30%.Don't let the oil % scare you.Just don't get in a big hurry to lean it out.As long as its rich you have plenty of lube.I always use the heat cycle method and it has never failed me.

Wow!sound pretty too technical for me.Lol!This is the best engine i ever own so far and i loved it.Running stock shims with 30% fuel i thought it runs excellent.But i would like to know whats the different it ll makes once u got that sweet spot u talking about?

I highly recommend you follow the stickie "the break in bible" on top of the nitro engine page, written by Monty "the Novarossi Guru", He recommends Byrons 30% GEN2 11% oil, personally I add 1/2 Oz of Klotz Benol to a gal of byrons,some may think it's overkill but I figure a 'lil extra can't hurt much in performance. plus the smoke smells really trick.:cool:

I found one for my P5. Do you have one for a FMS? Pm if you do.

thank you... the engine is more impressive then I anticipated it would be... I have always read they were soft down low, which was backed up by what I seen when I seen a few run...However much to my surprise the engine has more low RPM grunt then any .21 I have run to date...It is a long stroke engine and it feels and acts just as a long stroke should... The powerband comes in super early in the RPM and gives the engine a very unique feel ... I have actually bumped up the mod a little and have the engine pulling a few thousand extra RPM now while still retaining that stump pulling bottom end...Uber pricey engine, but one hell of a trick truggy engine......My buddy who owns this engine bugged me to modify it, but i was hesitant because I was worried about a soft bottom end, but dam, were we ever shocked when we actually got it on the ground....

It does look impressive brother!! The Bonito being based off the Toro is softer on bottom than expected as the Toro was as well but the transfers are a couple degrees lower than the Toro so it isn't as soft. The 2084 or 9853 and the 21 seems to be a good pipe for the stocker but I like the 9901/20 after I do my work on it. I have been getting 12+ minutes on a tank driving normally and usually pit between 9-11 minutes depending on track, tune and setup. The biggest thing that engine design needed was a intake timing change, exhaust port timing change and the crank filled. Playing around with the timing and fill will yield different results but a basic fill puts you in a good ballpark and what I also do and have had great results is making the satalite ports and main exhaust port open at the same time as it yields the most possible exhaust surface area at the start of blowdown giving the engine the best possible low end response. I think alot of the soft bottom was because the satalites were opening a few degrees before the main port and it was bleeding down before it had enough surface area to blowdown and scavage correctly giving the engine that soft feel but with the right changes, it goes from being a ho hum to one of my favorites.

Bump:)