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-   -   NOVAROSSI Engine thread.... (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/353301-novarossi-engine-thread.html)

pointforward 03-24-2011 11:43 PM

To those running the BTTS, what run times are you getting? I've had maybe 40 tanks in mine, and so far getting only 9 minutes. Running in the tropics (Philippines) so I guess the heat and humidity have a lot to do with it.

Using a 2084 pipe and the 41029 manifold.

houston 03-25-2011 07:30 AM


Originally Posted by pointforward (Post 8858248)
To those running the BTTS, what run times are you getting? I've had maybe 40 tanks in mine, and so far getting only 9 minutes. Running in the tropics (Philippines) so I guess the heat and humidity have a lot to do with it.

Using a 2084 pipe and the 41029 manifold.

Are these the engines from Eduardo?

You should be seeing way better than 9 minutes

Look at the other racers on the same track, is everybody getting around 9min? Is everybody getting more? Some tracks just get horrible mileage and some get really good mileage, humidity will definitely play a part, heat will definitely play a part. You have a setup on there fire excellent mileage but if you are running buggy I would recommend the 9901ss, lmk if you need any

Eduardo (Jody) orders from me often, if you haven't got together with him do so and we will get you taken care of

iflybyu 03-25-2011 05:37 PM

Can anyone tell me what the overall shim thickness should be on a 421B for 30%?

Thanks

Mike

iflybyu 03-25-2011 06:34 PM

GOt it. it comes from the factory with 0.5mm of shims.

Mike

houston 03-25-2011 11:01 PM


Originally Posted by iflybyu (Post 8862099)
GOt it. it comes from the factory with 0.5mm of shims.

Mike

They should be the same as plus4 shimming, see chart below :D

Also pm'd ya

pointforward 03-27-2011 08:19 AM


Originally Posted by houston (Post 8859355)
Are these the engines from Eduardo?

You should be seeing way better than 9 minutes

Look at the other racers on the same track, is everybody getting around 9min? Is everybody getting more? Some tracks just get horrible mileage and some get really good mileage, humidity will definitely play a part, heat will definitely play a part. You have a setup on there fire excellent mileage but if you are running buggy I would recommend the 9901ss, lmk if you need any

Eduardo (Jody) orders from me often, if you haven't got together with him do so and we will get you taken care of

Jody! --> yes, I run with him almost every week, if not more than that. In fact, we often pick adjacent spots on the drivers' stand for most races (on either side of a post to lean on).

Got mine from Dogbone. I think Jody got one as well, though I'm not sure what he ran at the race today.

Let me check if the 9901 I have is the SS.

PM me a link to your shop please.

Show871 03-27-2011 04:08 PM

Hey guys, is the +4C Team worth the extra 50 or so bucks over the +4Tuned? Is there actual on track performance/durability differences? Just looking for a solid race motor for my 2.0 buggy.

Thankyou......871

mmaattppllaayy 03-27-2011 04:17 PM


Originally Posted by Show871 (Post 8870230)
Hey guys, is the +4C Team worth the extra 50 or so bucks over the +4Tuned? Is there actual on track performance/durability differences? Just looking for a solid race motor for my 2.0 buggy.

Thankyou......871

I would say yes since you get a rear ceramic bearing that usually cost $110 for only 50 extra. the port timing was slightly changed between the 2 as well to increase runtimes ever so slightly.

kgombe 03-27-2011 04:21 PM


Originally Posted by mmaattppllaayy (Post 8870274)
I would say yes since you get a rear ceramic bearing that usually cost $110 for only 50 extra. the port timing was slightly changed between the 2 as well to increase runtimes ever so slightly.

dont forget about the team piston... which is shaped differently... (similar to onroad piston)..

mmaattppllaayy 03-27-2011 04:35 PM


Originally Posted by kgombe (Post 8870295)
dont forget about the team piston... which is shaped differently... (similar to onroad piston)..

that too. i believe they call it a compact combustion pistton

Show871 03-27-2011 05:15 PM

Thanks for the heads up! I guess I will finally give in and run a barney purple Novarossi :D

am 03-28-2011 12:10 PM

The biggest diffrence with the pistons, is not the shape but the material. The team piston is harder and will last a long time longer than the old pistons. Team pistons are milled, not casted...

nick64merc 04-05-2011 11:00 AM

Has anybody ran the Bonito yet? I just got one and I am about 4 Tanks in to the break in. I am running the 9901 pipe on it in a MBX6T. I was just wondering what people thought of this motor so far. I have a FMS in my buggy and I love the power that motor has so I would think this should be about the same but maybe a little more low end pop to it. Any info anyone has would be appreciate. Run times, Plug types, Pipes, Vneturi's, etc.

Nick

jdesoto 04-05-2011 08:59 PM

Hello Everyone,

Due to the 8th Scale Circuit Worlds in Homestead, we will be operating with a limited crew at the office. Please try to contact us via email as much as possible so that we can process your questions more efficiently. Thank you for your understanding and patronage.

Normal operations will resume on April 18th.

rossham46 04-07-2011 05:19 AM

hi all, i intend to run 30% nitro for my plus 4c and toro nero team. what should be the ideal thickness of the head shims to achieve good power and max run time efficiency? thanks

houston 04-07-2011 06:09 AM


Originally Posted by rossham46 (Post 8927782)
hi all, i intend to run 30% nitro for my plus 4c and toro nero team. what should be the ideal thickness of the head shims to achieve good power and max run time efficiency? thanks

They are already shimmed properly :D

nick64merc 04-12-2011 03:36 PM

I just ran the Bonito this weekend in my MBX6T. It is still very fresh and tight, I had a 1/2 gallon through it for breakin. I ran it with the 9901 pipe and the 21 header. This motor has top end for days and all the bottom end that I could ever ask for. I ran it with the 1.1 springs on the stock mugen clutch. I was easily getting 10-11 minute run times with fuel to spare on a rich tune with a 7.0 restrictor in it. Temps were around the 220-230 mark. I was also running the New Mugen fuel from VP.

I ran the truck yesterday around the house to adjust the tune and I leaned the top out a little bit and WOW!! The motor just keeps pulling up top. I cant wait for it to come alive with another gallon through it. Best motor so far that I have owned. Very easy to tune and responds well to adjustments. Worth every Penny if you ask me.

:smile::smile::smile::nod::nod:

rossham46 04-13-2011 07:39 AM

hi all, what is the size of the rear bearing of the plus 4 and toro nero? thanks for the info

houston 04-13-2011 07:56 AM


Originally Posted by rossham46 (Post 8957492)
hi all, what is the size of the rear bearing of the plus 4 and toro nero? thanks for the info

Plus 4 (except '08) 14x25.8x6mm
Toro nero 14.5x26x6x6.3mm

I would recommend sticking with original novarossi bearings especially on the toro size

All fronts are pretty much the same at 7x19x6mm , novarossi part#17011

stallen50 04-13-2011 10:29 AM

what rod will fit a p5 engine. i have heard people using go rods and a couple other ones. Is this true?

PowerHouse 04-13-2011 10:52 AM


Originally Posted by stallen50 (Post 8958308)
what rod will fit a p5 engine. i have heard people using go rods and a couple other ones. Is this true?

I would highly recommend staying with oem parts. I have heard people trying this and that in their engines to save a few bucks and they end up regreting it in the long run because the cheaper part they replaced it with ended up failing prematurely. The R7 is one of the best rods going and it is worth the extra money.

TommyBlazin 04-13-2011 10:52 AM


Originally Posted by stallen50 (Post 8958308)
what rod will fit a p5 engine. i have heard people using go rods and a couple other ones. Is this true?

dude stick with the novarossi rod it calls for,trust me, would u put a Ford rod in a Ferrari?

it's the same thing your asking..

TommyBlazin 04-13-2011 10:53 AM

lol@mark beating me to the post.. But theres a guy with all the experience you could ask for answering your question..:tire:

Busterlbn 04-13-2011 12:19 PM

How often do you guys change rods? exactly in plus4 and p5 becouse I have these engines.

and is someone there who didn't change rod over lifetime engine's?

PowerHouse 04-13-2011 12:37 PM


Originally Posted by Busterlbn (Post 8958803)
How often do you guys change rods? exactly in plus4 and p5 becouse I have these engines.

and is someone there who didn't change rod over lifetime engine's?

I change the rod out when the tolerance is out more than .0025". If taken care of, that is right around the 5 gallon mark give or take. I have run the R7 rods in a couple engines until the engine ran erratic because of too much play and the timing and compression were changing as the engine ran with all that slop and I got around 9-10 gallons out of it but definitely not recommended. The instructions say to change out the rod every 4-6 litres or 1-1.5 gallons but that is a little too safe. You should be able to squeeze 3-4 gallons out of a rod easily if treated well. That means preheating the engine before each start, keeping an eye on bearing and rod wear from time to time, running good fuel with a good oil package and keeping a good tune on it while keeping foreign debris out. It can be hard to do all of the above all the time but it is possible.

stallen50 04-13-2011 12:42 PM

what turbo plug do you guys use it the p5. Right now i am trying p4 with 30% werks fuel

houston 04-13-2011 12:47 PM


Originally Posted by stallen50 (Post 8958921)
what turbo plug do you guys use it the p5. Right now i am trying p4 with 30% werks fuel

Novarossi C5tgc,c6tgc,odonnell 97t or 99t

P4 temp range works good in nova but it misshapes the head button

Busterlbn 04-13-2011 01:08 PM


Originally Posted by PowerHouse (Post 8958889)
I change the rod out when the tolerance is out more than .0025". If taken care of, that is right around the 5 gallon mark give or take. I have run the R7 rods in a couple engines until the engine ran erratic because of too much play and the timing and compression were changing as the engine ran with all that slop and I got around 9-10 gallons out of it but definitely not recommended. The instructions say to change out the rod every 4-6 litres or 1-1.5 gallons but that is a little too safe. You should be able to squeeze 3-4 gallons out of a rod easily if treated well. That means preheating the engine before each start, keeping an eye on bearing and rod wear from time to time, running good fuel with a good oil package and keeping a good tune on it while keeping foreign debris out. It can be hard to do all of the above all the time but it is possible.

Thank you ;) Better is spend 60 bucks than buying new engine :)

Regards!

houston 04-13-2011 07:40 PM


Originally Posted by Busterlbn (Post 8959033)
Thank you ;) Better is spend 60 bucks than buying new engine :)

Regards!

aint that the truth :nod:


general maintenance on any engine should be had , imo engines are not throw aways as some others think they are , EVERY SINGLE part of the engine can and was meant to be disassembled ;)

PowerHouse 04-13-2011 08:41 PM


Originally Posted by houston (Post 8960980)
aint that the truth :nod:


general maintenance on any engine should be had , imo engines are not throw aways as some others think they are , EVERY SINGLE part of the engine can and was meant to be disassembled ;)

True to point. Simple maintenance like a bearing, rod and a resize is acceptable but if a bearing or rod bushing comes apart or foreign debris goes through an engine and the psr is junk and the bearings and crank are questionable at best, then you shouldn't be sinking money into it to rebuild because most times rebuild cost will be at or more than replacement cost.

Busterlbn 04-13-2011 11:57 PM


Originally Posted by PowerHouse (Post 8961322)
True to point. Simple maintenance like a bearing, rod and a resize is acceptable but if a bearing or rod bushing comes apart or foreign debris goes through an engine and the psr is junk and the bearings and crank are questionable at best, then you shouldn't be sinking money into it to rebuild because most times rebuild cost will be at or more than replacement cost.

+1

I mean better is change rod than change everything inside / buy new engine through rod crash.

stallen50 04-14-2011 02:03 PM

what pipe would work better for my p5 053,086 or 2035? tracks are medium to techincal. interested also what one would be better in a truggy too. thanks

kgombe 04-14-2011 02:04 PM

from what i have seen and read you will better off with the 53

houston 04-14-2011 02:52 PM


Originally Posted by stallen50 (Post 8964729)
what pipe would work better for my p5 053,086 or 2035? tracks are medium to techincal. interested also what one would be better in a truggy too. thanks

dynamite pipes?

buggy or truggy? :)

RCelik 04-14-2011 03:12 PM

Im using a Dynamite 053 on my P5xlt, with O'donnel speedblend 30%.

houston 04-14-2011 03:15 PM


Originally Posted by RCelik (Post 8965095)
Im using a Dynamite 053 on my P5xlt, with O'donnel speedblend 30%.

not a bad combo , are you happy with it ?

RCelik 04-14-2011 03:28 PM

Im in the break in stage, ran about 3/4 gallon and things are looking good. Can't wait to tune it for racing. Great low end speed.

stallen50 04-14-2011 04:39 PM


Originally Posted by houston (Post 8965003)
dynamite pipes?

buggy or truggy? :)

yes dynamite pipes. i have 2 of them like to try in both buggy and truggy.

houston 04-14-2011 05:52 PM


Originally Posted by stallen50 (Post 8965492)
yes dynamite pipes. i have 2 of them like to try in both buggy and truggy.

those pipes are a great budget minded choice for most all novarossi produced 16.26x16.8mm borexstroke combo and even the 053mr works fairly well on the toro nero/bonito which has a longer stroke and smaller bore

086hs buggy
053mr truggy

speedy2 04-15-2011 08:27 AM

I want to change the rod on a P5
which way he pistonrod comes out ?
the hole side or the plain side ??


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