From what I seen the 9901/41021 has a very nice bottom and mid, but rolls off on top end..... The 2096 is slightly less punchy down low, but blossoms better in the midrange and top end....So to answer your question the 2096 has the smoother bottom end

I did some testing last night with my 'fresh' MBX7 powered by a clocked p5 (stock clutch). I had always used the 9886/41001 combo in my RC8.2 with this mill, however with the need to find an alternative pipe due to EFRA constraints I decided to go the 2096/41021 combo. All i can say is that the down low 'snap' is still amazing (sometimes even a little scary!) but now its coupled with an incredibly linear power band from the mid range through to the top (the top does seem a little less though). The clocked p5 is one almighty power machine!

Thanks for an answer if that was what you were doing,

I have my own thoughts on it, but am not sure if my thoughts/theory are/is valid. To me they make logical sence, but could easily be completely off. Having not played with too many variations of pipe/header combos, and there are just too many possibilities for me to try them all, I was hoping that that those that may have tried more of them could validate my thought process or not. Hopefully more folks will be kind enough to chim in.

Awesome

I have heard the 2096 will work very well with the 41001 on my engines.....maybe try it if you wouldn't mind...

Thank you so much for the info. It sounds perfect for me. Im going to buy one and give it a try. I believe it may have a bit longer fuel mileage with 2096/41021 since it has smoother bottom end. Thanks again....

Shall do. Ill let you know the results!

Hello Everyone, I'm looking for some advice if I can get some. I picked up a 8T with a Bonito 7XLB engine it and I'm having a rough time getting any kind of tune on it. The motor had been sitting for about a year without being fired but was sealed with air filter on it, fuel port and exhaust port were closed off as well. I have been told by everyone I run electric with and the owners of the track I race at that the guy I got it from is a stand up guy, always took care of his cars so they wouldn't doubt what he says. So I'm going off what he told me. The motor has plenty of compression. When the car was put away last February the motor only had about a gallon on it after being rebuilt for Nitro Challange. I replaced the tank and the fuel line to start with a clean slate as far as have clean fuel system. When I got it fired up it, it wouldn't run without the glow ignitor on it so I replaced the glow plug and that help quite a bit. I have set the needles back to factory, or what I think is factory setting. High speed needle need set to 3-5 and the low speed at 5 turns. I have spent hours just trying to get the low speed set right using the pinch test or any other way I can find to get it set and it just won't take a setting and run decently at all. Has anyone had issues with the o-rings in the carb going bad after a prolonged time of the motor sitting ? That's really the only other thing I can think of is there is an o-ring leaking somplace causing this issue. This is my first nitro but I have plenty of experience with carbs on actual cars and dirt bikes so making little adjustment to the needles isn't foreign to me. Sorry this got so long, just trying to give as much information as I can to get the best answer back I can. Thanks for any help !

Don't know much about that engine, but those carb setting seem very rich to me. Could be fouling the plug if too rich. The o-ring idea you have could be a possibility, but may only be a part of the issue and not the source.

Yeah what he said! Sounds like we agree on something!

Would you happen to know if the 41001 is better or worse than the 41021 when it comes to fuel mileage, or is it not noticeable.

Here is what I got from the Novarossi site and I have closed high and low side down to the point where the motor won't start or run at all.

The high flow needle (main needle) set to adjust the debit of the fuel must be clockwise turned in totally closed (do not keep so as to avoid damaging or blocking thhe needle in the spray bar), and then opened again 3,5 turns.

The low flow needle (idle needle “B”) “B” must be turned in totally and then open again 5 turns

One thing I haven't considered is the fuel I got fom him. He said it "should" be good, it's been sitting in a dark closet this whole time. This may as simple as that. I just don't know how a motor would react if the fuel was bad. Any thoughts ?

what plug are you using? I've just started using the nova C6TGH with great success. Get yourself some fresh fuel - byrons, or something of similar quality. Then start again.

I put in a Losi C6, from what the guys at the shop say, it's a Novarossi C6TGC Glow Plug wrapped in a losi package, and a lower price. I will go ahead and pick a Novorossi plug and some new fuel to be safe and start the process over.

I recently rebuilt a Bonito and it isn't the easiest engine to tune, but the first thing i thought of was the condition of the internals after sitting for a while.

I would recommend taking the entire engine apart and cleaning it and buffing the crankshaft. sometimes the bearings and crank get rusty while sitting without lots of oil. I think if it is done right the engine will run much better without much replaced. worst case the rear bearing may need to be replaced and possibly the front, but I'm just guessing. the orings usually last a long time in my experience. if i remember right the low speed needle likes to be just out from flush and the high speed can start flush to get you running. also make sure the idle setting is readjusted. that one is critical on that engine.

If you still can't get it to run get in touch with Monty Houston and send it up to him he will get it squared away!!!!

If that's what NR calls for on the needles then you sir are right where you need to be as a start.

I'd maybe go 3-3.5 turns out from bottom (closed) on the HSN and 4-4.5 turns out from bottom (closed) on the LSN and see if that changes anything.

Fuel? Yeah that be a good thing to make sure is good. Didn't even cross my mind either. I'd probably do that before I tried anything else.

Plugs? The C6TGC or the C5TGC should be the two NR plugs that work. I'd maybe go with a C5TGC as a start only because it's a hotter plug and the tuning window is bigger, thus easier to find.

Some of the other things mentioned above are equally worth noting and looking at too.