I run keep off 4 with 41021/9886 and it has all the power it needed especially short run up to jump, excellent top end with 6.5mm venturi.

4bttwc 41033/2096 smooth n better top end. As for 9901/41021 combo is very flat on top imho.

Ceramics will give better response n longevity, main bearing only.

3 needles carb will tune the same as the 2 needles carb, just dont tune the mid range if u dont understand how it works. I dont feel/find any difference with both carbs

In buggy I run the Keepoff 4 with the 9901/41021 manifold. It's a great engine and I agree with you stick to Novarossi! The 9886 pipe is not allowed in my region as it's a 2 chamber pipe. The 9901/41021 combo is what the NR team drivers such as Adam Drake run in buggy.

So nobody knew the comparison between the ultimate pipes and the novarossi pipes?

Never even heard of it here.

Not sure but novarossi based engines wont have much difference

Answer by Novarossi
 

Hy, This is the response of NOVAROSSI Italy with regard to the question on the last connecting rod commercially available.

can you translate this reply to english please?
would like to see what novarossi have to say
as they did not give a reason why my rod failed.

I don't know why they don't answer you..I wrote Nova and my question related only to know the latest rod produced. Sorry, I don't help you.

Aulin79 pretty much explained it, he messaged Novarossi just asking about what the current batch of r7 conrod numbers are and they replied with a number that's pretty much it

thanks, got it now i was thinking the writeing in blue was reply from novarossi

Does anyone knows the part number for the engine button for the Novarossi Drake engine?

Hi. Im having trouble getting the button off the motor. Is it normal on Nova's or am i doing something wrong. It is really tight into the sleeve. I have to use a screw driver to pri it a bit.
Also i have a new motor that i pulled down before i used it and when i put it back together i put the dot on the button forward. Will this be a problem? I have used the motor since doing this

Dot goes to the exhaust port

I do think think it will be an issue it's just a way to have the head button the same way every time and to line the screw holes up I believe.

take out the plug before, that will help.

I believe you are talking about the head button, being based on the 5 Off motor it would be 28002

[ATTACH]Attachment 1405992[/ATTACH]

sorry for the multiple post,i'm just learning how to upload photo's.

I pulled down 1 of my motors and the photo's above are what it looked like.There seems to be dirt getting in under the button. Any idea on how this could happen. All the screws were tight. Also what is the best way to clean the motor. I would like to get it pinched.

It is normal to have a bit of dirts at that area, use denatured alcohol and tooth brush with paper towel, if u send for repinch then just let the expert do it for you. Anyway wat fuel do you use?

I'm using VP Tessman blend.

In the photo of the crank, is that dirt stuck to it?

The dot on the button should face the exhaust port. This is what the dot means. As someone else mentioned take the plug out before trying to remove the button and yes they can be tight in the sleeve. It's important that you remove the button straight.

The gunk you see in the photos isn't normal or good. That is corrosion as a result of using poor quality fuel or an old fuel that has water in it. Nitro is hydroscopic which means over time the water content of the fuel increases especially if it is not stored correctly. It also builds up if the engine hasn't been stored correctly.

You need to remove the gunk before running the engine again. You also need to ensure that you are using a good/clean air filter element. I can also see evidence of erosion from dust etc that's been going through your engine.

Just because you can, might mean its worth a try.
 

So the other day, local racer running a P3SX had his rod Fail...(one of my favorite Novas, so simple)..
felt bad for the guy - he is a young racer early 20's trying to have fun and a real good kid, helps and volunteers at the track.

So a buddy and I get to brain storming, I had P5XLT parts in the box, as i was still waiting for new bearings...

So we took the Crank, new PSR, Turbo headbutton and backing plate from my P5 and Slapped them in his P3XS! Ran in the motor installed in the car on the starter box for two tanks and finished it on the track (no one else was running, so we took a sunday drive, lol).

Needless to say, after we took it apart, inspected it, sealed and reassembled, he has himself a stealth little P5XLT. He is so happy and you can tell he is glad to be up and running again.

- New Plug and Button Head O-ring were installed after the breakin.

Pics to come...

Has anyone used Avid ceramic engine bearings before? Are they any good?

I've used ceramic bearings from AVID to replace the original ceramic front and rear bearings in my PLUS.21-4 BTTS. The AVID bearings were perfect with respect to accuracy of fit. Since then the engine has burned around 15 liters of fuel without any problems. The best is that they were cheaper with shipping costs to Europe than the Nova ceramic bearings would have been.

I just got a used .21 Mito 4 and was running Ohio indoors with cold temperatures (33F) due to having to vent the track. I had a C6TGC plug go bad after 15 minutes of run time. I am not sure if this was due to the cold temps or not, but would the newer C5TGN plug be better for cold temps and will there be any type of tuning I will have to do? Also, side note due to temperature inside we had engine head temps coming off the track at 150F after 25-30 minute mains.

150? Where and how are you temping the engine? 150 is way too low if that's true. Although the engine would be running absolutely pig rich to achieve that, even in cold windy ambients.
If it's correct, wrap the head next time. Minimum temp 200f. Maximum temp isn't so important.

With an air temp of 35*, 150 isn't as bad as you think....As long as the motor was running good with smoke, it should have been ok.
Now adding a layer of foil tape to the bottom 2-3 fins would help out in bringing temps up, that cold of weather you wouldn't see much higher than 200 anyway on a properly tuned motor. This is why you don't tune "with head temps alone."


And putting a hotter plug in probably would have helped and lasted a lot longer..

I don't tune to temps. I always advise against it. But 150f is too cold, regardless of ambient temps.

Motor was running really good, smoke and temping right of the plug and next to the plug on the button. Will have to try foil next time, but had no issue with power or the car whining in mid air or any of the usual signs. Back to the question will the newer style plug help make the plugs last longer in extreme conditions like that?

Yes it would help....

Yes, best bet c5tgn (latest all condition) plug. I even use it during hot days, 30-33°c, malaysia is hot

It is exchangeable, i run the serpent rtr p3xs with 4btt head button n crank n nvr13016 back plate. If u have a GO GX series motor, just put it in the nova crankcase n let it scream

http://www.neobuggy.net/2017/01/19/n...bo-glow-plugs/
new glowplugs

has anybody tried the adam drake novarossi

Yea, I love it.
I was gonna pick up another one, but novarossidirect doesn't show them listed anymore.
wonder if nova is gonna rebadge them or what?

Ha! Pretty sure since Drake switched to OS engines.... Yeah, the Drake Nova motor is done. :tire:

I loved it too....for the first 3 gallons...then it went to shit real fast. Can't hold a candle to my r7, werks kortz edition or os'

my werks didnt last 3 gallons before the bottom of case split

Sounds like thats not the fault of the motor....


Ive seen engines die at 1 gallon and other give it up in glorious fashion at 10+ gallons.


Engine life= good fuel, proper maintenance/ use and is very dependent on how you run it in.


Fast break ins=Fast motors=fast life spans.