I have always found 3 shoe clutches to kick in harder than the 4 shoes. they also tend to come on higher in the rpm range and that gives a more aggressive feel.

Generally I run 4 shoe with 2 x .9 and 2 x 1.0 with 4 Alum shoes. For me its a good base setup and if the track really grips up then like Megasaxon Ill run 4 x 1.0

Nevermind.... sorry, I misread your post and after rereading it (correctly) it makes total since :D.

no clutch on the planet gives bottom end like a M2C........definitely gives more bottom end then a 3 shoe does....

Neals got a video where he shows ya what ya gotta do

Just gotta make sure you dont push on the inner race that sticks out .3mm

Novarossi bearing tool works like a champ , already concaved on the front bearing collet

Oh, I didn't know the bearing's inner race sticks out. I was planning on using a washer or something to place against the bearing.... obviously that won't work. I don't have the tool or the new bearing yet, so I had no idea what I was going to be dealing with and/or how it will all work.

Who's Neal?

clockworks engines - maximo on rct

Thanks, I've heard about Clockwork engines.

question replacing front bearing on my btt do I need to remove one of the covers on my tko front ceremic bearing or just leave it?
cheers

Which engine?
 

I ran a plus21-4C for a long time and absolutely loved it. Love the long runtimes with 10 minute pits easy. Also love the powerband. Nice bottom and mid. Usually ran with a 2096 or 9853 pipe.

Now I will be buying another engine.Looking at the btt. Is the btt much improved over the 21-4C? Does it have a different feel? I am looking for great runtime, with a strong bottom and mid.

Go with the btt or stick with the 21-4C?

The C has a little more bottom end over the Btt. But the Btt is smoother, with a slight top end advantage. I feel the Btt with the right clutch and pipe set is plenty capable. The btt will still blow the tires loose with a 3 shoe 1.1 spring set up

Update on my stalling Plus 4C problem. It appears that it was a tuning issue possibly masked by using the wrong plug (Nova 7) and NOT the front bearing. I put a Nova 6 back in it and started w/ the out of the box needle settings---- super RICH of course, but it was so far outta whack I figured I'd start there. Several other more experienced drivers that have the same engine helped me out also and we had it screaming around the track in no time with no stalling at all.

Fedex dropped off my Hudy bearing tool and a new 17011 while my daughter and I were racing yesterday, so I can replace the bearing when I need to.

Someone told me I can spray WD40 around the front bearing while the engine is idling and if I hear a change then the bearing is bad.

Well my new 21 4c team edition just arived. I have searched and read through this forum, But i can still not find a answere that everyone agrees on. Should i follow houston's break in bible, for engine break in. The heat cycle break in? I have heard and read people saying that the novas take a long time to break in? I just want to make sure that i get this engine to run and last long. I currently have a werks b6 that i cant get any more than 6:30 out of!! I have triesd everything with my tune (thinking that i was upside down). So finaly i bit the bullet and bought this nova! Time will tell. Thanks everyone for there input!

I do the heat cycle method. I never let sit on box and idle. I start it let it warm up a bit and throw it down on hard surface and begin break in process.

Can someone post a link to the breakin method? I have a new 21-4C that I want to start breaking in as well.

Here you go:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/8075827-post1.html