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Originally Posted by yoggyong
(Post 10986638)
Thx for the inputs! ;)
My power lacks in the bottom. Actually, its already good enough but just that itching feeling for more since truggy could be pushed more. Top is good. My friend runs a bonito on a truggy as well. And he advised me on getting a 9886 pipe with it. Before I jump on it, I want to know what are the different choices I might have on here with advises from the experienced racers. :nod: Fuel mileage here is important as well for me. I'm running 10+ mins on a truggy with a 30min finals. Any less would result in an additional pit-stop. Running stock mugen clutch. Alu shoes with 1.0 springs. |
Mugen shoes are HEAVY with alot of surface area ;)
Use 1.1 springs |
Originally Posted by ben73
(Post 10987350)
yes a 3 shoe is more aggressive but you will find that you can achieve better runtime with the 4 shoe setup. You tend to put the power down more efficiently and don't light up the tires so much. Is it that the engine does not produce the punch or are you not able to put the power down and hence you feel its the engine but its actually the tires/chassis?
If its putting the power down then stay with 3 shoe as it will be more aggressive. Interesting cuz I always thought it was just the opposite using a 4 shoe. Im debating getting a Buku which is a 3 shoe or the m2c 4 shoe. Whats your thoughts on these 2 clutch set ups? I currently run the stock AE 3 shoe set up which is decent but the shoes dont last long enough for me. |
a big thing to think about when talking shop about your clutch setups is realizing the weight of yours shoes vs the spring you run. for example:
Stock Team Associated clutch, 3 shoes, running 1.0mm springs. in a buggy Ascendancy 4 shoe/Werks 4 shoe running 4 alum shoes and 4 .9 springs They actually have a similar stall rpm because all 3 shoe setups have larger, heavier shoes over a 4 shoe setup, so for a 4 shoe setup, you need less spring tension to hold the shoes in when inertia is applied. I personally run only 4 alum shoes and .9 springs on my Ascendancy and Werks clutch setups, and i also like the "Light" Werks flywheel(Ascendancy's standard flywheel is roughly the same weight). |
The compression on a bonito xlb should last how many gallons? Running byron 25/9%.
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How good can you tune? 8 gallons isn't out of reach.
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Just ordered the Hudy bearing tool and another 17011 in case that's what's causing my flameout issue. We definitely have dusty track issues here in TN what with the 100F plus temps during June and July.
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Originally Posted by JEDI BASS
(Post 10990257)
Just ordered the Hudy bearing tool and another 17011 in case that's what's causing my flameout issue. We definitely have dusty track issues here in TN what with the 100F plus temps during June and July.
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Originally Posted by lennybigblock
(Post 10986624)
you have no idea??
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Originally Posted by lennybigblock
(Post 10990577)
merci pour vos réponse ... manger du caca
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Haha
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Originally Posted by Muggydude
(Post 10986768)
Yes. All of those engines come with it anyways.
Definitely get the 2058 for more bottom. Really opens the engine up. The 2096/9901 actually seam to restrict it. Fuel mileage is pretty darn good with the 2058 as well. If you really wanted to add some bottom pick up a 2013 pipe. Maybe 30 or so seconds less runtime than the 2058. I suppose u mean the werks 2058? And 2013 I suppose u mean the orion? |
Originally Posted by houston
(Post 10990379)
dont forget to use something to keep tool from pressing on the inner race for installation , you will ruin the bearing
EDIT--- nevermind, I get it |
Originally Posted by chicky03
(Post 10987615)
The 9886 pipe is more top end but more over all power. I don't think that is what you want. I'd get an m2c clutch and use hard shoes with yellow or black springs. The stock mugen clutch comes in too early and bogs the engine down.
Originally Posted by houston
(Post 10988187)
Mugen shoes are HEAVY with alot of surface area ;)
Use 1.1 springs |
Originally Posted by ben73
(Post 10987351)
yes
be careful, rear bonito bearing is different size
Originally Posted by ben73
(Post 10987350)
yes a 3 shoe is more aggressive but you will find that you can achieve better runtime with the 4 shoe setup. You tend to put the power down more efficiently and don't light up the tires so much. Is it that the engine does not produce the punch or are you not able to put the power down and hence you feel its the engine but its actually the tires/chassis?
If its putting the power down then stay with 3 shoe as it will be more aggressive. Another thing I just realised could be my restrictor! I'm running on a 6.5! I would try changing springs to 1.1 and restrictor to a 7 before investing in a new pipe! :nod: |
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