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Old 05-20-2012 | 01:52 PM
  #2821  
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Whats the difference between the 2011 BTTa and the 2012 BTTa? I seen where there was some changes in the beginning of the year but I can't find them when comparing exploded views. Just curious and also how many of you guys run exhaust coolers do they make a smoother running engine? I have a Losi and the pipe is close to tank and lines so I am considering getting the Nova cooler but I have had no issues with flames. Just looking for some opinons about coolers and info on updates to BTT. Thanks!
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Old 05-20-2012 | 03:50 PM
  #2822  
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...
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Old 05-20-2012 | 08:22 PM
  #2823  
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Originally Posted by casey01
2 or 3 years ago i bought a 28-7 ran that motor for 8 gallons no problems what so ever only changed rod 1 time and changed bearings 1 time around three gallons. Since i had such great luck with this engine last year i bought 2 more the first engine broke it in using heat cycle method like i always have, after the first gallon put a good race tune and ran great good power never over 250 , then right when it hit 2 gallons lost all compression started having tuning issues started flaming out ( it just died ) So i chalked it up to maybe got into motor or something. Ok hears my problem , i pulled second motor out at first of the year did the break in properly ran half gallon then put a slight tune never getting it over 220 made sure of it ( didn't want the same thing to happen to this motor ) finally got to a gallon then put a good race tune running perfect running around 240 with plenty of smoke. I went to first race with this motor last night first round of qualifying ran great , second round started having tuning issues tuned a little got it fixed (so i thought ) went in to the a-main plenty of smoke running great , about half way through the race it fell on its face wouldnt even rev up barely would stay running ,took it to my trailer no compression even after it cooled it spun freely, i took it a part thinking something had to got in it or something , it looked like it was brand new no scratches in cylinder the only thing i saw was piston will now go all the way out the top of the cylinder like i had ran 10 gallons through it . I was furious so i showed it to all the top guys that run our dirt oval series and every one of them told me they had the same problems and thats why they didn't run novarossi engines any more. Now i am in the market for new engines and i need some help deciding are the new novarossi engines pieces of crap like these two were or have they fixed the problems

what fuel do you run ?
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Old 05-21-2012 | 08:32 AM
  #2824  
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Originally Posted by savannahmick
Whats the difference between the 2011 BTTa and the 2012 BTTa? I seen where there was some changes in the beginning of the year but I can't find them when comparing exploded views. Just curious and also how many of you guys run exhaust coolers do they make a smoother running engine? I have a Losi and the pipe is close to tank and lines so I am considering getting the Nova cooler but I have had no issues with flames. Just looking for some opinons about coolers and info on updates to BTT. Thanks!
I have seen some of the BTTA's from this year with single seal front bearings that are black, not the blue double seal. No internal changes.

We are getting smoother response, and 30+ seconds more runtime with the cooler.
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Old 05-21-2012 | 08:46 AM
  #2825  
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Originally Posted by casey01
2 or 3 years ago i bought a 28-7 ran that motor for 8 gallons no problems what so ever only changed rod 1 time and changed bearings 1 time around three gallons. Since i had such great luck with this engine last year i bought 2 more the first engine broke it in using heat cycle method like i always have, after the first gallon put a good race tune and ran great good power never over 250 , then right when it hit 2 gallons lost all compression started having tuning issues started flaming out ( it just died ) So i chalked it up to maybe got into motor or something. Ok hears my problem , i pulled second motor out at first of the year did the break in properly ran half gallon then put a slight tune never getting it over 220 made sure of it ( didn't want the same thing to happen to this motor ) finally got to a gallon then put a good race tune running perfect running around 240 with plenty of smoke. I went to first race with this motor last night first round of qualifying ran great , second round started having tuning issues tuned a little got it fixed (so i thought ) went in to the a-main plenty of smoke running great , about half way through the race it fell on its face wouldnt even rev up barely would stay running ,took it to my trailer no compression even after it cooled it spun freely, i took it a part thinking something had to got in it or something , it looked like it was brand new no scratches in cylinder the only thing i saw was piston will now go all the way out the top of the cylinder like i had ran 10 gallons through it . I was furious so i showed it to all the top guys that run our dirt oval series and every one of them told me they had the same problems and thats why they didn't run novarossi engines any more. Now i am in the market for new engines and i need some help deciding are the new novarossi engines pieces of crap like these two were or have they fixed the problems
We have seen this too. The engine comes with a less tight fit than some engines. They still run fine after they get loose. You just have to finish breaking in the engine, retune it. It should settle in, and run great.

Last edited by Grinder; 05-21-2012 at 12:44 PM.
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Old 05-21-2012 | 08:55 AM
  #2826  
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Hey guys, what size clutch shims do I need on the p5?
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Old 05-21-2012 | 04:33 PM
  #2827  
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Originally Posted by .rc_racer
I ran my FMS yesterday with the settings you said it ran good a little fat on the bottom and only about 7 mins on a tank but it barely has a gallon on it yet I run a P5 (non turbo) in my buggy it ran awesome all day until the mains I went to fire it up and completely detonated 3 plugs in a row it has only 3 gallons on it what are the stock settings for that motor I want to reset it and start over again. Thanks in advance.
Well I took the motor apart today and found out why I keep toasting plugs!!! My rod bearing was GONE totally destroyed the piston was cracked in half on the bottom of the skirt, it's safe to say that motor is now junk I guess I will get online and look for a new mill tonight.
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Old 05-21-2012 | 04:47 PM
  #2828  
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Originally Posted by .rc_racer
Well I took the motor apart today and found out why I keep toasting plugs!!! My rod bearing was GONE totally destroyed the piston was cracked in half on the bottom of the skirt, it's safe to say that motor is now junk I guess I will get online and look for a new mill tonight.
I junked my FMS yesterday as well. It was my backup, but i put it in just to stretch its legs a bit. It ran a little funny and then flamed out. i try to restart it, but nothing, pulled the plug and the element was gone, not a good sign. Once i tore it down i found a chunk of the piston had broken away inside where the wrist pin goes through, so bits of aluminum had cycle through and killed the plug. surprisingly, everything else looks goo still, even the bearings are still good, so i may be able to revive it again if i could locate a p/s set
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Old 05-21-2012 | 06:28 PM
  #2829  
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Originally Posted by megasaxon
I junked my FMS yesterday as well. It was my backup, but i put it in just to stretch its legs a bit. It ran a little funny and then flamed out. i try to restart it, but nothing, pulled the plug and the element was gone, not a good sign. Once i tore it down i found a chunk of the piston had broken away inside where the wrist pin goes through, so bits of aluminum had cycle through and killed the plug. surprisingly, everything else looks goo still, even the bearings are still good, so i may be able to revive it again if i could locate a p/s set
You are one lucky man I have a older plus 4 that I kinda Frankensteind together I need a mill bad lolll
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Old 05-21-2012 | 07:16 PM
  #2830  
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Originally Posted by Maximo
what fuel do you run ?
I have always run trinity platinum
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Old 05-21-2012 | 07:25 PM
  #2831  
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Originally Posted by Grinder
We have seen this too. The engine comes with a less tight fit than some engines. They still run fine after they get loose. You just have to finish breaking in the engine, retune it. It should settle in, and run great.
I tried that already still will not run right, i will keep trying but it did the same thing as the other one is the odd part. This is $650 dollars down the drain for maybee 10 to 15 races
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Old 05-21-2012 | 08:23 PM
  #2832  
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Dear all, have any one experience with hongnor efra 2080 pipe match with novarossi BTT engine ? This pipe is incl in the Hongnor X3 Sabre kit. Thanks all
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Old 05-21-2012 | 09:14 PM
  #2833  
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Having some engine issues with my new 4btt. The engine has just over a gallon through it. The issue at hand is flame outs. I had a bunch of them Saturday. Now, the only time it was flaming out was down the straight WHEN I would let off throttle. Temps are 230-255ish. Needles both about flush. I'm using the blue carb 6.5mm restricker. I'm also using the c5tgc. I did change to a new plug to see if that prevented the flame outs....no luck. Also, the temp was hot and humid yesterday...about 88 (wi). So, not sure if that could've been a issue....Any idea's?
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Old 05-21-2012 | 10:01 PM
  #2834  
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Originally Posted by casey01
I have always run trinity platinum
I would not run that fuel if I was you....

I have seen some very oddball issues with that particular fuel........

Due to the nature of it, there is a good chance your engines have been breathing thru the front bearings...I would pull those bearings out and pull the shields and look to see if there is any "black grease" inside of them......... If you do indeed see that there is black grease in them, then that most likely means you have been ingesting dirt thru the bearings........ 28 engines operate with fairly high crankcase vacuum and are more prone to breathing thru the bearings, especially if you run a thinner fuel like the Trinity..........Once the engine breathes thru the front bearing dirt gets into the engine and causes it wear out prematurely...... From what I know the Trinity is very low oil content, which will lower its ability toi properly seal the crankcase......

"Black Grease " is the black sludge that builds up inside the bearing, it is basically pulverized dirt mixxed with oil, it resembles grease, but behaves like a lapping compound inside your engine.........
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Old 05-22-2012 | 12:53 AM
  #2835  
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That brings up a very good point Neil. What I found works really good for engine life is to take it apart and with the crank out of the engine blast some denatured into the front bearing and rear bearing from the inside of the engine. then reinstall the crank and spin it gently to remove any "sludge" or whatever from inside the bearings and repeat it a couple of times, it makes them sooo smooth the next time I run it. Like you said dirt gets trapped up in that front bearing. I've found about every 3 race days is about the right interval for doing that. and don't forget to oil it really good, you don't want to fire it up dry....

Someone very wise once said, "the faster the engine the faster it wears out".

I still don't see longer life from the billet pistons over the original micro cast ones. I think the plus-4c and the P5's get the longest life IMO. The high rpm engines seem to wear out pretty fast, and the plus-4 team didn't seem to keep tip top compression quite as long as the original but is not in bad shape by any means. If you keep a p5 or plus-4 really clean and change the rod after about 4-5 gallons or after a resize you will have it for a long time.

Anyone at the track having trouble with an engine I can guarantee there is dirt and oil and crap around the glowplug hole, on the front bearing, and most likely inside the engine, even if in small ammounts.

Hey buddy you got a dirty glowplug hole what do you expect?
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