The collet, screw, and engine mount you'll just have to experiment with. (start with the ones from the engine..)

As for shimming, you'll have to add or take out shims by experimenting til it's right. You want everything tight so that the CB spins freely with no binding or weird sounds. Front to back play should be max 1mm, or less..

Start by putting one or two thin (or one medium-ish..) shim on the shaft first, then the first bearing, then the CB, then the 2nd bearing, then shim over the second bearing as necessary.. If the CB doesn't spin right, maybe add another shim behind the first bearing..

you want to use the loss collet with the loss flywheel...

make sure you the the engine mounts point in the right direction.. and don't tighten them down until its sitting in the base of the engine mount.. by that i mean.. leave them loose on the engine until its line up on the base.. tighten them down on the base then tighten the engine down..


good luck

Hey! When using the Losi two piece mount with a Novarossi you might need to dremel the edge of the top block where it hits near crankcase. If you put the blocks on the motor and tighten them hold the motor up and look at the blocks they point out a little which makes them hard to line up with pins on the base. The Kings Head mount don't have the same issue thats why I got one. Anyway just file down the top inside edge of the blocks (a little!) so it can lay flat so it don't make it to wide at the bottom. Good Luck!

THANKS for the input guys!!! I put it up last night, but I am about to start wrenching....I REALLY want to try and start this engine today!!! I went all out with the Bonito, 9901 pipe, 41021 manifold, Competition Heat 110 DEUCE DEUCE :), GenIII radio tray transponder and more :cool::nod:
STOKED!!!

Kgombe....THANKS!!! I losened the top up and put it on the bottom and it all messed together great!! I am about to put on the clutch and stuff...do you know which screw to use for the clutch bell, the Losi??? With the concaved washer and screw?
THNAKS again

3x8mm flathead screw.

any 3mm screw with a washer will be fine... i like to use a cap head 2.5 hex size screw.. less chance of stripping...

Except in the case of a losi. You need to use the losi washer and 3mm flathead screw.

is that 2.0 specific... cause when i had my 8ightT i used a cap head and a washer..

Hoping some of the gurus might be able to help me, I was running my btt yesterday and had a two stage idle I couldn't tune out, was running my X3 before and it was running perfectly, but changed to the btt and had the bad idle, thinking there might be a air leak, I ruled out the fuel lines, tank, pipe gasket as it ran fine with the X3, the gasket on the manifold/ engine was a bit worn so I changed that, no change, changed plug, idle improved. When tuning I had to lean to top a bit, got lean bog so richened hsn a bit, went to lsn, lean it untill idle stayed up but seemed like I had to go to far and idle kept two staging. This is the first time I ran the 2096 pipe on the btt, never had two stage idle with the 9901 pipe, so thinking its my tune. I read Monty mentioned you have to lean it a decent bit when changing to the 2096 but seemed
Fairly excessive how far I went and still had two stage idle.
Any suggestions how I should attack
It, maybe start fresh with the needles.

Mine was doing.the same thing at The Nitro Challenge this passed weekend, same engine and pipe, Monty helped me out, the HSN is about flush, LSN about 4.5 out, try that and see if it helps

Monty helping me out made a big difference, took him about 2 seconds, thanks Monty.

Cheers for the reply, I'll give those settings a go, my needles were about flush hsn and 1.5mm-2mm in from flush on the low.

different
 

what are the different preformens off

the 9901 pipe

and the 9001 super strong pipe

run it whit a nova bonito

thanks

the 9901 was kind thin and the thinger area bent in pretty easy

the ss pipe is the same just can take a better hit. and it got a deep rasp sound in because of the harder pipe it brappp sounds bettter lol