yep i bought one specifically for boiling pipes, was under $20 at BigLots. I dont usually boil them much more than overnight, takes all the stuff off the outside and cleans the inside well too.

anybody???

The Bonito should be much stronger on the top end than the BTT, and similar if not a little stronger on the bottom end.


def a little fat, but looking good!

But the Plus 4 has more instant torque than the 7 port....The 7 port has a slight delay before it hits....Usually.....

The Bonito we run has more instant low end power then any other .21 I have seen in my life...Starts at an extremely low RPM like only a long stroke engine can......Of course it is not stock..... But regardless of it being a 7 port, the Bonito is built to be a torque monster with the 17.6 stroke....

Honestly I have not tried the Bonito, and let me tell you why.

I ran the 367, and the toro, and the toro team, each promised lots of torque and none of them delivered. The extra long stroke engines are great down the strait, and make excellent power everywhere but from a dead stop coming out of a turn. I got pretty frustrated with them...and that was running the 9853ss pipes...

I can say that every other Nova engine I've had made excellent torque...I'm sure your mod work makes them really nice, but for the regular guy taking an engine out of the box and running it the p5 is the undisputed champ, and the plus-4 isn't far behind....the FMS and the x7 have been the 7 ports that make more torque and they are not extra long stroke engines, so regardless of what the intentions are for the extra long stroke it didn't work on three consecutive models and so I'm done spending 400 bucks on one....

the 367 wasn't an extra long strike engine...

My bad.....

You know, your not the only to say that very same thing.... And beleive it or not it was one of the main reasons I stayed clear of the Toro engines... I Am all about having bottom end and read numerous posts by racers and other modders complaining about the lack of bottom end from those engines... So I just decided it would be easier to stay clear LOL !

However This summer I started messin with the Bonito and I guess I must have found a Genie in a bottle...I have run many powerful engines and have never before seen a .21 engine that makes the low end power of the modified Bonito.... I would say its bottom end might even be stronger then my modified OS 25.... By driving feel , it has about quadruple the bottom end power of a FMS....It almost has a 4 stroke feel to it, as it has amazing low speed grunt that you don't really see from a .21 usually....It makes the engine very tractable and easy to drive.... But if you crack full trigger from a stand still it will pull the front right off the ground on a high traction surface...its a horse of a .21 that almost has to be driven to be understood.....

I love my Modded Toro, easily stronger from bottom to top than my p5. When you modded your bonito, what things did you do?

I understand now....thanks for being so nice in the discussion guys....

the basics are Modified crank timing, modified head button, modified Backplate, modified exhaust port, modified boost port timing, modified transfer port timing...overall sleeve timing altered....Plus a few other tweaks to the flow patterns of the engine..... Really sweet engine that makes gobs of power

So, i had a question for all of you Novarossi guru's

I am breaking in this Bonito. I was told that when the "metal pinch" in finally gone (not all of it I am guessing) and "It's jewel's drop" I can expect it to loosen up considerably and suddenly run rich as heck all of a sudden. At that point I can lean it and really feel comfortable with the tune because it is officially "broke-in". Ok, this has been told to me by some racers at my local track that run Novarossi engines, not Bonito's though, but they seem to have well tuned engines. This is something I have always envied because I am somewhat of a mechanic, but never really was good at tuning.

More info: I have been breaking in this engine with the heat-cycle method. I use a Competition-Heat engine heater. I bring up the temp of the motor to 190-200 then I start it. I idled about 5 tanks, 1/4 throttled 3-4 second bursts 4 tanks, 1/2 throttled 3-4 second bursts 3 tanks, 3/4 throttled 3-4 second bursts 4 tanks. I am about through 1/2 gallon. Always cooled engine with piston at BDC and allowed cooling between tanks. I DO NOT want to take this to the track until it is fully broke in.

My question is, on average at what fuel usage point do you guys see this "jewel's dropping" miracle happen? A gallon? A gallon and 1/2?? I have several gallons of S&W Fuel and I was told NOT to use this fuel until this occurs.

help a Hoosier out here guys... I just want to get the most out of this engine.

For me with an RB (Made by Novarossi) the best way to tell is get the engine up to running temp 220ish and stop the engine, remove the glow plug, and turn the flywheel. If you feel any metal pinch when warm then it's not broken in all the way. If you wait till there is no metal pinch when the engine is cold you might be running 3 gallons of fuel thru that thing in your street before you get it to the track.

I usually don't get that "nut dropping "all at once as your describing..... Myself I find the engines gradually loosen up over a period of 2 gallons..... Having it all occur all at once is not really a desirable thing..as that means there is a large amount of wear happening over a very short period of time.........

I find my Nova's take 2 gallons to reach prime....I run them much harder during the first 2 gallons then you show in your videos...... As the engine loosens up you will see a couple things happen.... One is temps will gradually drop, the more you run the engine, the cooler it wants to run... And the more you run it, the higher the idle becomes unless you lower the idle gap........Judging from your video it is going to take you quite a long time to breakin the engine... Your doing too much sitting and idling and not enough actual running....... When I fire up a engine I idle for 5 minutes to seat the bearings, then the engine is run continuous for as long as I can....usually at least 1 hour on the bench, and sometimes up to 3 hours depending on the engine...Then on th track it is tank after tank non stop