Thanks Rick, I will probably be out there sunday afternoon. Im just wondering if the new carb tunes differently than the old style carb though.

I'm on tank 7 of the break-in and noticing the same pattern. Right now I'm 1.25 turns and still running very rich. I almost wrote something about this afternoon but didn't want to seem stupid as noone else had commented about the differences with new vs old carb.

it is a completly different carb so , so the needles arent going to be the same as the old version, just tune it to where it runs right... I wouldnt worry too much about where the needles are just about how it is running.

So after all its said and done, which pipe is the best for the B5 engine?!

2035, 2013, JP-2 or even JP-3?????!!!!!!

Thanks

Glad someone else is right there with me.
Also when I bring it in from running it for a couple passes it takes approx 5 to 8 seconds for the idle to settle. Is yours doing this too? I mean the engine performs great its just when it does this I think my LSN is too lean.... and then it starts to idle correctly

Guys at my local track are liking the 2013 for great low end power and 10min plus run times.And my one buddy likes the 2057. He says he looses a little bottom but gains a little run time. IMO you cant go wrong with either

Hey guys, just waned to make a quick comment about all of the needle setting talk that is going on here. In all reality it is pointless because everyone is running their own individual and I should say unique set up. There Re a slew of variables to keep in mind. Different plug types/manufacturers (hence different temperatures), different fuels, different types of fuel tanks, different pipes, different fuels, different lenghts of fuel line and/or pressure lines and last but not least different atmospheric conditions (humidity, temp, elevation). All of these are going to make hughe difference in needle settings.

So the easiest way to do this when your engine is fully broken in is simply to set you HS flush, set your LS flush, set your idle gap to aprox. 0.5mm and fire it up. Then adjust your idle only using the LS needles (not the idle screw). Once you have this set warm up the engine/chassis and do some fast laps adjusting the hs to get the top that you want (range from half throtle and above). Once you have adjusted this and are back in the pits you will notice your idle speed has changed. So.. adjust your LS to get a smooth steady idle again and you are done. When alls said and done this should take less that 10 minutes to do and this system will work on any brand/type of engine. Hope this helps!

Regards,

Ron

Ron thanks for chiming in. I know it sound really simple as it should be. I have read your posts and tried to follow your instructions. I thought I read one of your post stating to set the idle gap at 1 to 1.5mm. Is this only for beak in and then lessin it to 0.5mm after engine is fully broke in?

I am following your break-in instructions on page 3 and just noticed how "off" the HSN was at flush. I was surprised at going two full turns in when Kingsbury was talking about half a turn.

BTW, the engine sounds mean and nasty after the 6th tank

Can anyone give me visible differences between the new carb and the old carb. Mine is still in the box and I would like to check and see which carb I have. Thanks

The new carb has an insulating ring around the base.

Yes, you start off at 1-1.5mm on a new engine for break in (white realy rich settings). Then each tank you lean the needles a hair which will elevate the idle and then you reduce the air gap to compensate. So at the end you should end up around 0.5mm on the air gap and with your LS set at whatever the appropriate setting is to give you the correct idle. Hope this helps!

Ron

Thanks, checking now

Just wanted to say loved my First B5 i put in my truggy so much that i just bought a second one for the buggy im building for the kid.

Thanks you, makes sense