Great
 

Thanks for the reply. I just checked and A main is out of stock on the wristpin clips. Any ideas on where to find them.

I just checked on orders and they have some on order that we are shipping them today, so they will have them tomorrow ;)

cool
 

Thank you sir. :nod:

Hey guys here's a tip for when you are setting idle air gap. I use a pc. of solder. Take calipers and check, because there are numerous thickness of solder, but find a piece that is in that range of .5-.75mm like Ron said, then close the idle. Keep opening it up little by little until the properly sized solder will slide through, then you know your air gap is set.

i did the same but use some PIANO WIRE. most LHS's have a stock of this stuff in different diameters.......i took my digital calipers to the LHS and kept measuring til i got the sizes that i needed..... ....cut them down to bout 5 inches long and soldered them together in a cross pattern....marked them with masking tape and, viola...a new tool.

wristpin clips
 

I managed to reuse the wristpin clip I removed to replace the con rod. It was thick and sturdy and you were right the Nova one is not the same size. A Main got the order a little too late to order on time to get the engine back to the owner, but thanks for the help. It's all back together.

Not a problem, glad that everything ultimately worked out.

Question for all you nitro tuning experts out there. I have a B5 .21 racing motor in a Hot Bodies D8T truggy. I am just finishing up my first gallons (Byron's 20%). The last two times I've taken it out, I've noticed that after a relatively wide open run or even a half throttle blip my idle stays high for probably 5-6 seconds before coming down to a normal idle. The other thing I noticed is that if I pick the car up from the back and it tips forward it will begin to idle fast?

I tried to adjust only the idle, but that didn't fix it, just took it to too low of an idle at normal idle. My gap is around .7-1mm.

If anything I am too rich, especially on top end (lots of smoke, an loads up if I let it sit more than 5-8 seconds). Do you think I may be too lean on bottom end and it's starving for fuel coming off throttle? When I blip throttle I don't get too much smoke, so that's what I am thinking, but just looking for some advice before I touch needles.

My low speed needle is probably 1 1/2 turns in from flush and high speed barely in from flush.

It's not a glow plug problem either, have replaced it. Checked all linkages and idle gap when off throttle and all seems fine. Has to be an idle gap, LSN, or HSN problem.

Thanks

I'm not an expert, but I can solve this problem. Your to rich on the lsn. Also, your idle gap is to large, which is why it idles high for a bit and then, it goes rich so idle drops. If you set your gap at .5mm and set your idle with your lsn, that will get you in the ballpark of a correct tune. Do this after engine is up to temp and chassis is heat soaked. One more thing, werks engines come shimmed for 30% nitro. I wanna say if you choose to run 20% you should remove a copper shim. Might want to ask or research that a little more. If it were me, I would just run 30% and save the headaches, but that's me. Good luck...

Is there anyone out there that can sell me a crank shaft. I have a B5 in very good condition but the clutch bearings seized and started to rotate och the shaft, wearing it out.
I can't afford a new shaft so i hope someone out there can help. Perhaps you have one laying around? I'm in Europe but it's fairly easy to ship here and I'll pay up front.

So I was running my truggy the other day and ended up blowing a clutch bearing. After replacing the clutch bearing I have a different problem. Now, if I am blipping the throttle, sometimes its like the engine is starved for gas (or maybe it's fooling me and really getting too much gas?). I get no smoke, heavy bog and if I throw on too much throttle instantly it will literally die. Then after WOT run I can get a high idle. The bog and die is somewhat at random too, its not every throttle blip or every WOT. It'll be fine for like 5-6 blips and then on the next one almost die. It's only some of the time. I do run the engine rich so normally I have really good, if not a little too much smoke. During the time it wants to die there is almost no smoke, so I want to think its not getting fuel. I replaced fuel lines, glow plug, etc... but nothing worked.

Before the clutch bearing blew it did not experience this and my needles did not change.

Only 1 gallon through the engine with proper break in (20% Byron's).

Any ideas, not sure what to do?

Sounds like you may have picked up a slight blockage in the high speed needle jet. Sometimes little bits of shredded O Ring etc can make their way down into the jet.
This can cause all sorts of random bog, lean, flame out issues.

Screw the needle right out of the high speed needle tube, then blow some fuel back up through the tube to back flush it out.
If you see anything come out, then it's maybe an idea to remove the tube from the carb completely and give it a good blow out with some compressed air etc.

Also 20% is a very low nitro content for these motors.
They are designed and shimmed around running 30%. You will get a huge performance increase and bottom end sharpness by going up to 30%, or even 25% if your not keen on the 30%.
Don't be scared of the higher nitro %. The motors will love you for running it and perform their best.

Everyone starts talking about these engines are made for 30% nitro.
I'm running 25% and I think we are forced to run 16% next year.
Should I remove on shim when running 25%?
I have a B5 with 2013 pipe...

You can run 30, 25, 20 or 16% nitro in any .21 engine as they come from the factory. We all set our deck heights conservatively because frankly we do not know the type or quality of fuel you are using or the skill level of the tuner. The higher the compression ratio (so the lower the deck height) set on the engine the more sensative to tune the engine becomes but the better it performs (bottom end punch and acceleration) if tuned properly.

So to optimize any engine ideally you should adjust deck height for best performance of your individual set up, but that requires some testing and engine knowledge to do so properly and if done incorrectly can result in the destruction of the engine. So we do nto recomend that most people do this unless they have experience doing so or someone available that can walk them through the testing needed to do this properly. In your case where you are running 25% I would just leave the deck height where it is and run the engine. Once you get to 20% and below fuels then you really should be adjusting deck height in order for the engines to run properly with them so that you do not have to run the engine overly lean for power.

Generally just loosing a clutch bearing and quickly changing it is not going to affect the tune of the engine. So....what you are describing is a little unusual and means that more than likely something else changed when you replaced the clutch bearing. Try removing the needles as described already and spraying out the card with carb cleaner. Then re-install the needles with both set to flush. Set your air gap to 0.5mm with the reducer out. Put your filter back on and start the engine and jsut re-tune it following the sytem that I have posted on here several times before and you should be good. With what you are describing, a high idle after WOT, no smoke etc it simply sounds like your engine is set too lean. So that might just be the problem.