Hi guys, I'm using a Kyosho Inferno Mp9 TKi3 and wish to purchase a werks engine. Either a B5.21 pro pr B6.21 pro. I'm located in Singapore and weather here is mostly anywhere around 28degress Celsius to 34 degrees Celsius. What plug, engine and pipe set do u recommend. Thanks.

Danny

I have a very nice modded B5 crank for sale no wear on pin. This came off a CRE B5 team modded motor had as a spare. Sell cheap PM for details.

HI Danny, thank you for your interest in our engines. For your application I'd run the B6-Pro with 2058 pipe set. As far as plugs are concerned I have not ran in Singapore but I have run in Indonesia and Thailand and I'm guessing the humidity that you have in Singapore as in those countries so I'd recommend that you run our #5 plug as your standard plug and pick up a few #4's for the really hot high humidity days. Hope that helps, let me know if you have any other questions.

I have a weird issue that has come up....I have a b5 engine with about 3 gallons on it. I put a ceramic rear bearing in after two gallons...I have done this on two other B5s I've had and ran them to the 8-9gallon mark with zero issue and awesome performance....werks user forever as far as I'm concerned, here is my issue,

This weekend I started having these odd flame outs. Round a half tank or so in it will just die. I checked EVERY PART of the fuel system, new tank, fuel lines, exhaust gaskets, all perfect. I found that if I bumped the idle way up it would go a full tank no problem but it's irritating having it idle so high...also if I let it idle for say 20-30 seconds then try to take off it spits sputters and backfires until it cleans out. I'm not a nitro rookie, I have done this for a while and very confident in tuning and so forth. I assume I may have a front seal leaking but I don't see any evidence that's it. I haven't pulled the clutch to look closer....just thought I would get some thoughts while I was here. Thanks in advance

Hey Clay how's it going?
I suggest to set your idle gap to the .5-.7mm with the restrictor out and then go back and set you needles to flush and retune it. It just sounds like you have a little imbalance on needle settings. And sitting there 20-30sec of just idling is pretty good with out dying. The rule of thumb is that after you clear the motor out and let it sit for 10sec at idle and get back into the throttle it should not stumble or spit or sputter but after sitting 20-30sec that should be normal with it loading up with fuel.
Hope this helps.

Lance

Head shims
 

Hello. I am rebuilding a werks b5 and the customer had taken all 4 shims off the head button. that is 2 aluminum and 2 brass or copper shims. when I put it together do I use all the shims or what. I just want to make sure it goes back stock. Thank you. Also it needs a con rod, do I just order it from amain or is there a more inexpensive option, and can I use the wristpin clips from a nova. I'm sure to tweak one.

Thank you in advance.
Merdith

Ron has always listened to what his customers wanted and through all the testing with his team has continued to release great engines at great pricing.

Couldn't agree more Marty.! Ron is a busy guy as well it's hard for him to keep up what's going on in all the forums. He will chime in when he gets a chance that's for sure.
Marty glad you made it to Tx a few weeks ago for the Ice Breaker Race, it was a pleasure meating you.! I'm guessing I will see you in May for the Lone Star Dirt Nitro Challenge at Thornhill RC Circuit!

Why do u suggest taking restrictor out? I have to set the idle extremely high so it will stay running-----also the idle varies as it heats up....it just seems all over the place? And just dies randomly..... very frustrating

Assuming that your clutch is not dragging what you are describing is pretty typical of simply being rich on your LS needle. To keep the same overall state of tune/temp simply try leaning your LS 1-2 hours and richen your HS 1-2 hours. That will change your needle balance and should help resolve the loading up after idling for a while or the random flame out after re-fueling type issue. So as mentioned try 1-2 hours, test to see if symptoms improve, if so but think you need more repeat and test again. Let me know if that does not take care of it for you!

Ron

Put the same shims back on it that came off. A-main stocks the rod's or you can shop around and see if you can locate one cheaper. As far as the wristpin clips I would not advise people to cut corners and use our clips on a Nova engine, the opposite is probably true too. Those are not really items that you want to cut corners on as if one comes off that couple cents saved is going to end up costing you a whole lot of money on replacement parts!

Thanks Marty, it's been a while hope that you are doing well!

Please try what I mentioned above. As far as having the reducer out, that is how we do it to measure air gap which you want to set about 0.5mm to 0.75mm. Now if your air gap is set differently just set the air gap to what I mentioned, install the reducer and air filter, fire the engine up and blipping the throttle for a few minutes warm up the car. Then let the engine come back down to idle. If the idle is low, this means your LS needle is rich so simply lean it 1-2 hours, blip throttle and let come back down to idle and check again. If idle is still low, lean again, blip, let come to idle, check again. Keep adjusting the LS until you get a smooth, steady idle. If the idle is too high, richen the LS 1-2 hour, blip,let come to idle and check again. Adjust until you get a smooth, steady idle. If your engine will not idle at a normal speed and you have to run an elevated idle in order to keep it from conking out that is and indication of a worn out piston and sleeve. So...set the air gap and idle first, then deal with the tune because if the piston and sleeve is worn out you will not be able to get the idle sorted and never be able to tune it properly.

Hey, does anyone know the size of the high speed needle orings. Need to replace the top one. Thanks

Not sure on the size but if you need some they are contained in our carburetor o-ring kit which A-main and most of our dealers should have.