Did the pro versions always have epoxy filled cranks? I ask because I just pulled a B5 pro apart and the crankshaft is the same as all my other non-pro engines.

I have a b5 that had a problem with at my last race, after i ran about 3 tank of practice i notice my engine was not running right, it just sounded different.
After checking it over the carb had moved in the crank case. I figured i had left the screw loose. I put locktite on the screw and after the first heat it was loose again it would continue this all day. I just pulled it in and quit for the day.

When i got the buggy home and i removed the motor i have a nice divot on the chassis from the c/bell could i have landed wrong on a hard landing and bend the crank shaft to cause a vibration to loosen the pinch bolt.

I tore the engine down and i could push the piston to top of the sleeve. The motor has lost it pinch. Thanks in advance for any help.

I've had the pinch bolt loosen up on me also, make sure threads and bolt are oil free and clean and loctite again. I have 2 buggys with divots from clutch bell hitting chassis. I bought a kings headz motor mount with extention to remedy that problem. I doubt you bent your crank shaft, but wouldn't hurt to check I guess. I've used 2 guys for pinch service, Ray and Rex. Both have threads with contact info. Good luck...

The divot in your chassis is caused by chassis flex and is not going to bend your crank. It might potentially break it (have only seen this once or twice) but bend no, it's hardened. If your carb is rotating or the pinch bolt is coming loose then you need to go back to the very basics of car set up and take a look at your end point adjustments. When I tighten the pinch bolt I tighten it until snug then give it another 1/4 turn, that is it. I do not crank down on it or anything like that. The key as I mentioned is your end point adjustment. When you set up your radio you should set up your throttle servo so that the servo only pulls the slide open fully and then add a click or two. When the brakes are applied your spring on the linkage should not be fully compressed and still have a little bit that it can be compressed further. If these two things are not done properly then you have your nifty new high torque 135oz/in servo pulling or pushing against your servo with all of that power and something is going to give!

Regarding being able to push your piston to the top of the sleeve that is not ideal however it is not a sign that the p/s is worn out. The idle test is, if the engine will maintain a steady and stable idle at a normal speed, your p/s is fine!

Does anyone know about this. Curious to know if the pro series always had the epoxy filled crankshafts. Thanks

Mine all had factory epoxy.

Yes, the Pro's have always come with filled cranks :nod:

Werks B5 Pro & clutch bell issue
 

Ok, this is a newbie question / issue.

I started installing my Ascendancy clutch (flywheel) on my Werks B5 Pro - everything being new. Installed the collet on the engine shaft, slid the flywheel on, installed the flywheel nut, and tightened. Then, I slid the clutch bell on, had both bottom and top bearing installed in the clutch bell. I put the clutch bell screw and washer in the end of the engine shaft and snugged it down. I spun the clutch bell and noticed it was rubbing on the top of the clutches. So, I removed the clutch bell and shimmed until it wasn't rubbing, but still had the clutch shoes covered by the bell. Reinstalled washer and screw on the end of the shaft and snugged it down. Now, my clutch bell doesn't spin freely. I did notice that the engine shaft is sitting lower (below flush) with the outside bell bearing - causing the resistance on the bell when the screw is tightened.
I'm using the stock clutch bell from my MBX6T kit. I disassembled everything and started to file my collet down, thinking if I shorten the collet, everything will sit farther down the shaft and eliminate my issue. I have the collet filed down quite a bit and it's better, but not where it needs to be. I don't want file the collet until hardly anything is left of it.

Should I try using a thinner collet and see if that helps? May still have to shorten it, but it may allow the flywheel to sit closer to the engine.

Will the stock Mugen clutch bell work with the Ascendancy clutch?

How much of a gap should there be between the engine and the back of the flywheel?

Is there something I'm doing wrong, as far as assembly goes?

I would appreciate any help or input! Sorry for the lengthy post, but wanted to make sure everyone knew how I assembled it and what I've tried so far.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Extra o rings
 

Hey guys,

Just got my new B5 engine and I'm putting it in my buggy. I got the carb on alright and the clutch and everything, but there were 2 small black o-rings included in the package and I am not sure what they are for. Are they extras or are they supposed to go on somewhere during assembly?

Edit: oops sorry I found it somewhere earlier in the thread. Apparently they are spare orings for the pinch bolt.

You almost got it and you should not need to change the collett. You should just shim the end of the crank with a shim (or shims) that is the same size as the crank, so that when you tighten down the screw fully it is tightening against the shim and not the bearing. Adjust the shims so that when you tighten it down the bell still spins freely, doesn't hit the flywheel and there is still a little play. Hope that makes sense.

I installed a Ascendancy on my b5, the 4 shoe version, can't remember what they call it, any way, the gap between the engine and flywheel is determined by the collet. I think clutch bells are standard as far as size, I think. I have seen where people take material off the back, engine side, of the collet for proper shimming. Mine come out right on my 8.2 out of the package...

hey guys, ive got a b5 for sale. Took it in on local trade. I dont run nitro so i need to sell it. Open to offers

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...erks-pipe.html

Ok, from what I've been reading and researching, the stock Mugen clutch bell will not work with the Ascendancy 4 shoe clutch system. The Mugen clutch bell is too short. I read a few posts about it on the MBX6 forum.

Huh... well now you and I know. I see your from w. mich. I lived in the allendale/jenison area for 15 years...

Has anyone tried the break in method listed on page 1?

I have a few questions about it. I have tried to send Ron a pm, but have not recieved a reply :(

- Chris