Originally Posted by aloksatoor (Post 11564120)

I just started tuning the HS needle as part of my break in (instructions followed were from page 1 of this thread). I followed the instructions mostly to the letter in the ls part. However the glow plug is now dead, is this normal? Also it is too tight to be removed with the 4 in one wrenches I have. I have stripped two of them. The plug seems to hold its shape (I remove the cooling head and checked and reassembled it back.

Question is how to remove that screw? I am going to pick up a long 5/16 socket and use a ratcheting wrench with it to loosen. Tried to heat it up with a heat gun but the socket wrenches (4 in ones) I had are too badly misshapen now.

Also to set the final 0.5mm idle stop screw gap, I have to remove the red restrictor. How to remove that? Do I have to dissasemble the carb?

Originally Posted by dbrown (Post 11561814)

I have a tired b5 pro and was wondering if the b6 p/s would work in it.I would like smoother power over great bottom.

Originally Posted by aloksatoor (Post 11564120)

I just started tuning the HS needle as part of my break in (instructions followed were from page 1 of this thread). I followed the instructions mostly to the letter in the ls part. However the glow plug is now dead, is this normal? Also it is too tight to be removed with the 4 in one wrenches I have. I have stripped two of them. The plug seems to hold its shape (I remove the cooling head and checked and reassembled it back.

Question is how to remove that screw? I am going to pick up a long 5/16 socket and use a ratcheting wrench with it to loosen. Tried to heat it up with a heat gun but the socket wrenches (4 in ones) I had are too badly misshapen now.

Also to set the final 0.5mm idle stop screw gap, I have to remove the red restrictor. How to remove that? Do I have to dissasemble the carb?

Originally Posted by aloksatoor (Post 11565449)

All right delta was out of t handles yesterday so could not pick one up. I will try my local hobbytown else order online. And yeah I thought of doing the cooling headless method but was shit scared to do it in the pits yesterday hehe because of all the dust flying around.

Originally Posted by aloksatoor (Post 11565547)

And the glow plug life seems ok correct? It lasted around 10 tanks I believe, but I think I might have left it on for a while once for a while trying to crank the engine.

Originally Posted by Werks (Post 11566094)

Our glow plugs normally last several gallons on a properly tuned engine. So more than likely your tune was off or something if the plug died that quickly.

Originally Posted by Werks (Post 11588406)

If your carb is jammed up then it means that your linkage is being pulled at an angle which is what is causing the jam. Correct your linkage, take carb apart and oil slide and it should work.

If your engine is cutting out when you close the throttle then that can not be caused by your carb sticking. If it makes sense if the carb is sticking open then what you will get is a higher idle not a lower, which is the exact opposite and is what you are mentioning. The only possible cause of the engine cutting out when the slide is closed is not having the idle stop point set properly, in other words you have the idle stop point set too small to maintain a running engine which is why it cuts out when you apply the brakes.

Originally Posted by aloksatoor (Post 11588578)

I dismantled it. The idle stop screw snapped off after the threaded portion. I think the broken part was lost somewhere on the pit table mess when I dismantled the engine. I hope nothing went in the engine chamber. I saw a few slivers which I removed from the carb hole. The engine is spinning fine so it should be ok.

Originally Posted by Werks (Post 11589160)

If your idle stop screw snapped off then your linkage was really out of whack!!! Set your collars on the throttle linkage up so that when the slide is fully closed (so the slide is sitting against the idle stop) the linkage is in a neutral position meaning that there is no or minimal tension on the spring on the linkage. This way when you brake the spring can compress fully taking up all of the pressure. If this is not set up properly then when braking the full force of the servo is trying to push the slide closed even further and the only thing stopping this is the small tip of the idle stop screw! Try grabbing your servo horn one time and stop it from turning lol to see the amount of power that those things have!