I'd really base the decision on the type of vehicle that you run. If you run a buggy the B6 is going to be better for 90% of the people. If you run a truggy then again 90% of the people are going to want a B5.

Thank you for the reply.

I'm running the B2 in buggy but I really want to get a truggy so I guess a B5 is the go or get a B6 and put that in the buggy and the B2 in the truggy. So now it comes down to my own indecisiveness ;)

Thanks again and have a great week :)

Recently bought the B5 as my first race engine, and in the process of prepping for break in. Are the needles by default in a position to achieve rich or lean for a certain idle screw position?

I am unsure if they are in an acceptable settings to allow for first initial start before I start the break in process Ron has described in his first post.

And would it be advised to preheat for the very first start up and break in?, considering air temperature in my location is currently 14deg C.

Hi first let me say thank you for picking up one of our engines! In regards to the setting for initial start if you read through my break in directions on the first post of this thread it will give you all of the details on how we break in (and tune at the same time!) engines here. In my break in guide you will note that is says to start off with the HS and LS needles set to flush. Pre-heating is an option, I do not do it but I know that a lot of people do so it is up to you. Let me know if you have any additional questions.

Ron

next week i wiill firing up my b5! :)

Cheers for clarifying what the default Ls and HS settings, the guide in the very first post of the thread you made, seems to have overlooked the very initial LSN setting.
Is there a particular idle screw setting for flush LSN & HSN before attempting to start it? I am assuming that we are aiming for a rich mixture right off the bat to keep everything well lubricated.

Sorry to play 20 questions, but is there need to disassemble the engine to check for foreign particles?

no need to disassemble. the first tank setting the idle at 2-2.5 and fattening up the low end for a consistant idle will be fat enough to blow any particles out of the engine that may be left over.
also for a reference you can set idle screw to flush also then go 1.5 turns in and that will give you the break in setting at around 2 mil idle gap. to start it set it flush then screw it in

A guy at my local track runs a B5 in his buggy and he's been having problems with keeping it from stalling. I noticed he's running Torco 20% nitro fuel.

Is it considered mandatory that Werks engines run on 30%? Could his use of 20% be part of the problem?

I thought about offering him some of my Byrons 30% to try if it would make a difference.

Hi, thank you for taking an interest in your fellow racers, the fact that you are looking out for others is an awesome show of character!

In regards to your question just about every .21+ sized engines comes from the factory set up to run between 25-30% nitro. What is funny to me is that almost no one that I know would believe that they can just put 40% in their tank and run it properly without making some changes to their engine. It's pretty much unheard of right? Well the reason that you would not want to do that is because you would need to raise the deck height (which lowers the compression ratio) to handle the extra nitro.

Well for some reason it seems that everyone thinks that they can however put lower nitro content fuel into their engines without changing anything! Well the reality of the matter is that to make your engine perform optimally if you do this you need to lower the deck height (which raises the compression ratio) to handle the reduction of nitro.

Now having said that will it run without doing this, yes. But you will see a noticeable reduction in torque and acceleration. Unfortunately when most people see this they think that their engine is just not set lean enough (while really the compression ratio is just too low) and they start leaning their engines down more to try and increase the power and torque. The net result of this is that they will often be seen running around the track with engines that are running on, pinging when in the air jumping, overheating and in general just randomly flaming out. Run long enough super lean like this can also result in increased piston/sleeve wear. So.... in your friends case I would say give them a hand and let them try some 30% to re-tune their engine with. He should like the increase in power and the cooler temperatures that he can run at.

I need to put a new front bearing in how do I get the sleeve out?? Tryed the old ziptie thing but will not work.

What is happening?

how hot do pre heat it up to to bump over the frist time?

Pulled flywheel off and the seal on the bearing was not there. Think I spaced the flywheel out to much may have gotin something in it and eat the seal up not sure. Tryed to put ziptie in the exhaust port to push the sleeve out of the block but it will not move up.

If it's cutting the zip tie then double it up. Also you can grab the crank (or flywheel if it is installed) with some pliers so that you can apply more force.

That's up to you, I don't pre-heat engines here.