definitely take the inner shield off

It's kind of hard to see but are those little metal pieces laying on the paper towel pieces of the lower part of the piston skirt that are broke off on the rear (exhaust port side) of the piston?

Thank You Neal,

I will pull one of the seals before I install.

Cheers
Brian

The bearing needs to be filled with fluid for it to create a proper hydraulic seal...when the inner sheild is installed it prevents the bearing from filling with fluid, so it doesn't create a proper seal..which means the engine is relying solely on the rubber shields to seal the crankcase, which will work perfectly fine till the shields start a wear a little and lose their ability to make a vacuum tight seal, and at the same time the inner shield is still blocking the fuel supply needed to fill the bearing and create a hydraulic seal...Which makes for one very poor running engine...It will run fine at idle, but flame out when the throttle is applied....Will at times sound like the engine is refusing to draw fuel ! SO removing the inner seal right off the bat is probably the best idea....

most of it is from the case inside a very small piece now i look is from the piston its self it was at tdc when i took the plate off so idk

Ok this is my first post in a long time due to a great engine....

I have a problem with the front bearing just falling out of the case.
Yes you read that correctly, falling out of the case. Simple fix right put a new bearing in right, wrong. I have measured it till I am blue in the face and still no clue, other than buy a new case. Put the new bearing in and turn it over and just barely tap the crank and bearing is out.... Anyone one across this before? Now this happened to someone I told to get this motor as well.... So this is two motor's with the same problem....

Thanks !!

Jody

If it is two motors with the same problem then I would have thought that at least one of you would pick up the phone and call us to discuss this. Instead your posting on a forum asking if this is normal which is a little bit strange..... If this is a legitimate issue then do what you should be doing right away when you have a problem with a product (especially when it is something that if true would make the product completely unusable for you anyways) and call the company that made it. If it is a legitimate issue then we will take care of it.

I will tell you this though, our B2, B5 & B6 engines all use the same case and if there was a manufacturing related issue with them where we machined the front bearing opening too large it would have affected every single case that we made in that production run and hence several hundred engines that we have sold. So every single forum would probably have been completely full of posts about this lol. More than likely what happened in your case is that the old front bearing seized and spun in the case which hogged out the hole. As mentioned though give us a call and we'll sort it out.

So I'm real interested in purchasing this engine. Have a few questions though ;) Anyone using this engine with the Losi RE-11 pipe? That's what I have and considering the money is already spent I rather keep using it. I also would like to know if the PRO is worth the extra money? Do they come sealed from the factory, or do I have to tear into it the second it lands? Everyone still happy with these mills? The reviews are great, and from what I can see the customer service is amazing!

I have never ran any of the "re" pipes but the B5 has so much power I am sure the RE will work fine until you get a correct werks pipe.

Our first engine was an Alpha A872. It was a good engine. We then switched to a B5 Pro, and I have become a believer. The customer service is awesome, and the engine runs unbelieveable. My 10 year old was in his very 1st race this weekend at The RC Pit in SC.(Very fast, blue groove track with long back straight) Guy pitting next to us said " I was turn marshalling that last race, and your son's car is extremely fast. In fact, you may want to limit the throttle servo a little to tame it down some for him." I told him, "I have already done that, he's at 55% travel now!" He didn't believe me, had to show him to prove it!
All he could say was "D@#m!"

I tested the RE-11 when the B5 first came out and it ran fine... its does rob alot of power but runtimes were good. it will get it around the track till you can grab a 2058:D

Fitting B5 pro to Losi 8T 2.0
 

Has anyone else had issues when trying to mount the B5 Pro to the Losi 8T 2.0? I am having issues with the carb slide catching the plastic cover on the centre diff housing. I have tried to move the engine mounts back as far as possible but it still wont work. I could spin the carb linkage but it would mean the linkage to from the carb to servo would not be parralell.... Can anyone offer any solutions?

I had this exact same problem, and addressed it earlier in the thread. All I did,was dremmel down the corner of the diff cover a couple of millimeters, to where the plastic ended just past where the metal C clamp is, and rotate the carb about 10 to 15 degrees. You are right, your linkages won't be exactly parallel anymore, but as long as you don't rotate it too much, you won't have a problem. I've ran about 3 gallons thru my B5 since doing this, an never a servo problem or anything. The rubber accordion cover will still just SLIGHTLY rub on the diff cover, but mine is still good to this day.

You can also just buy the Losi aluminum diff cover, and that one doesn't rub the carb slide even without any modifications.

Chad

+1 on the center aluminum split diff mount...well worth the investment.:nod:

thanks guys. any idea on the part number?

Cheers