Well I had a darn Hitec 5996TG servo go out on throttle so I didn't get to mess with it anymore. I set the needles back to flush and double checked the idle gap. I will put a p3 plug in it and start over next week when I get my new servo.

I went back and read the break in procedure again on page 1. I am just not seeing the Idle gap reduced to .5-.7 MM in the break in instructions. The smallest I see it in the instructions is 1-1-1/2 mm. I know what to do now.

Thanks

Got it all worked out. For some reason I had to readjust the needles. I was rich on top and lean on the bottom. Not sure how a bearing change made this happen but it is all good now.

ok. i pressure tested the carb and it has no leaks. So i go to give the glo plug a look and sense i am real anal about getting dirt in my motor i took the whole head off. well i found the problem imediatley, the copper gasket and top of the sleeve was wet, and not just a little either. I don't know how but my head was loose, out of all the engines i have had i have never had this happen. I did once forget a couple years ago to put the backplate screws in, went to start the motor and i was like "what the hell is that sound"? Finally i looked back and the backplate was going in and out with every turn of the crank:lol:

So i am teribly sorry ron, i apologize and feel like a idiot. Don't know how it happened but it should all be good now, i will know more tomorrow and i don't even have to start it to know it will be ok. You and neal are Godsends to the hobby, and if not for people like you i would have problem quit the hobby by now. Thank you so much for everything you do and again i apologize.

I'd get the Werks plugs if you can. If not, I like the p3 plugs better than the p4 by far. jusst my .02

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Just to help out the novice werks B5 guys in regards to setting there idle gap correctly to 0.5mm after an engine has been correctly broken in .... Just adjust the slide until the gap closes enough to the desired size using a idle gap gauge, once you have the idle gap set tune the LSN till the engine sits and idles nice & clean and launches hard off of the line after sitting for 10-15 seconds or so, then its time to tune the HSN.

http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...rksb5b6002.jpg

http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...rksb5b6001.jpg

Does anyone run the optional "long" low speed needle?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...dle-Long-21-28

if so is it any better on fuel economy

it says for composite carburators. Wont work on 2010 model

dreaux. i have had my head come loose twice now. i checked both times before running the engine. for some reason it keeps coming loose. gettting fuel on the bottom of the head and top of the crankcase. head bolts can loose the first time. and the second time they were still tight and still wet on the head and top of the crankcase?:confused::confused::confused:

I never had that happen on my B5 but i do make it a practice to check every single bolt on the whole car after each race. These things rattle around a good bit and screws just back out. Only takes a few minutes and will save you some DNF's.

ditto no issues with screws here :)

finally, after two full race seasons, had to replace the P/S on my 2009 version B5. piece of cake. nice to see that a new wrist pin's included......now, just gotta go back to (flush needles) and .2-.2.5 idle clearance for the break in.....glad that i've a broken in 2010 version sittin around........

To got one of the OG B5's! Nice life that you got out of it:nod: Thanks forgiving one of our early engines a shot and being one of the people that helped proofs that we did indeed make a quality engine for what was at that time a crazy price!

got my motor straightened out and it RIPS! Awesome power and runtimes through the ROOF!

COuldn't be happier!! I know what i will be running for a LONG time!!!

hey ron what kind of run time is on a b5???? and does it tune the same as a b6??