Ive seen 100% properly tuned motor's come in with black on the piston, Some fuel's give off more, some give off less...If its a THICK caked on layer i would be worried but if its only a thin layer i wouldn't be too concerned....clean it re-assemble it and continue to enjoy the Awesome power band of the Motor. :nod:

Technical explanation sounds a little better, Thx Ron. :nod:

backplate screws
 

can someone conforim for me that the backplate screws are 2.5x8mm.
I stripped one out during removal and need to get a set. I found some here, http://www.tonysscrews.com/product.s...0&categoryId=3
i'm thinking they are the same

If you have a ACE hardware in your area check them out. Ours here in the Nooga area have a great metrics screws section. No waiting to get em' shipped to ya'.

Ya, Ace is usually my go to place, but they don't carry anything that small. I checked out Fastenal today and they have to order 100 at a time. I only need a couple. Tony's screws come in a 20 pack, so that makes it a little easier to swallow.

I hear ya'. I have to give thanks to the ACE 3 miles from the house because they got em' all there!
But check out 4C Hobby also...Great Products and service. He helped me out at AMS a few months ago.Good people.

yeah I run the 2057 in my D8t with the B5 I also run the "extender" for a touch more bottom end but gain a little run time over the 2013. to me runtime is more important then a wicked bottom end :) I like my engines to be smooth but have the power if I need it in a pinch. which is what my werks offer me day in and day out :)

Ryan

thanks for the info integra and ron.........was kinda my feeling that, considering how it's been running, that's it really not an issue....comes in after a 30 main still temping 230-240......

"Ace is the Place!" for misc. screws!

congrats to mr. kortz.........

http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/news...p?storyid=8857

A BIG X2....Robert's been working day and night to get thing's sorted for the H9 stuff and More goodies are on the horizon REAL soon guys. :nod:

Yep he has definitely been on a roll lately! I honestly think that he is driving better than I have ever seen him before and talking to him about things yesterday he is really, really pumped about going to the worlds!

Hey guys ,

I got one of these used but cosmtically in great shape, had it pinched by RAYARACING. runs but, at temp it is a pain to get an idle. everything else seems to check out. RAY recomended that i change the front bearing after (4) gal. is there something to this?? anyone having prob with setting good idle?? and how can i tell the 2009 carb. from the 2010 carb. ?

the 2010 carb is aluminum not composite like the 09.
as far as idle, set the high end needle flush, then set the idle gap at .5mm
then keep it going till it has some heat in it then adjust the low end needle to get a steady idle. then throw it on the track to adjust the high end needle back. I do this everytime i go out of state to race and it performs all day with no trouble.

2010 carb says 'WERKS' on the front of the carb....as far as bearings can't say I've ever heard of change em at 4 gals.....you went from talking about idle-ing to bearings, do you think your idle problems are related to your bearings? If your front bearing was bad you'd see an excess buildup of gunk around the front of the case/on the front base of the carb. If you're seeing this or just want to eliminate a possible cause, change the front bearing, they're relatively cheap. But so are gas tanks and fuel lines and pipe gaskets. You'd be shocked to know the difference I've had by simply putting on fresh gaskets from Lucky 7. What I've come to realize is that 'engine' issues are rarely the engine, usually fuel delivery system and/or air leaks. It's easiest to blame the stupid engine, but in fact it's the stupid user (pointing the finger at myself) LOL!!!:D:D