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-   -   The New Werks B5 .21 Racing Engine (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/319017-new-werks-b5-21-racing-engine.html)

Werks 07-01-2010 02:36 PM


Originally Posted by hooksjk (Post 7616066)
I have two werks b5 engines and the other day I was cleaning them up and noticed on both engines on the low speed adjustment there is a very small red like O ring around the needle itself and both off them are broken and coming out. I guess when I was tunning them some how they:confused: twisted out. I look at the break down the the carb and do not see them as a part. do you guys know what it is and does it have a function??

O-rings are used to seal around the needles and are also the thing that makes the needles difficult to turn. Repeated turning of the needles after a while can cause the threads to cut the o-ring. If this happens they should be replaced and you can pick up a complete o-ring set for our carbs here:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...tor-O-Ring-Set

Razathorn 07-01-2010 02:46 PM


Originally Posted by Werks (Post 7616158)
O-rings are used to seal around the needles and are also the thing that makes the needles difficult to turn. Repeated turning of the needles after a while can cause the threads to cut the o-ring. If this happens they should be replaced and you can pick up a complete o-ring set for our carbs here:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...tor-O-Ring-Set

Greif -- I wish I knew about that before I finished my last a-main order. Good thing to just have on hand!

hooksjk 07-01-2010 03:22 PM

[QUOTE=Werks;7616158]O-rings are used to seal around the needles and are also the thing that makes the needles difficult to turn. Repeated turning of the needles after a while can cause the threads to cut the o-ring. If this happens they should be replaced and you can pick up a complete o-ring set for our carbs here:



Those are to fat this O-ring is real real fine almost like a hair?

Quad Racer 34 07-01-2010 03:35 PM

[QUOTE=hooksjk;7616305]

Originally Posted by Werks (Post 7616158)
O-rings are used to seal around the needles and are also the thing that makes the needles difficult to turn. Repeated turning of the needles after a while can cause the threads to cut the o-ring. If this happens they should be replaced and you can pick up a complete o-ring set for our carbs here:



Those are to fat this O-ring is real real fine almost like a hair?

maybe from a lot of adjusting the needles they are worn out and became that small??

Werks 07-01-2010 05:42 PM

[QUOTE=Quad Racer 34;7616354]

Originally Posted by hooksjk (Post 7616305)

maybe from a lot of adjusting the needles they are worn out and became that small??

Lol, I think that what he is seeing is just a small sliver from the o-ring that got sliced off by the threads.

hooksjk 07-01-2010 06:11 PM

Lol, I think that what he is seeing is just a small sliver from the o-ring that got sliced off by the threads




Just took them apart that was it.:rolleyes:

Werks 07-01-2010 06:23 PM


Originally Posted by hooksjk (Post 7616918)
Lol, I think that what he is seeing is just a small sliver from the o-ring that got sliced off by the threads




Just took them apart that was it.:rolleyes:

No worries ;-) When you've been in this for a while like me you have seen everything lol! Regarding the sliver don't worry about it, the threads will over time slice small slivers off of the o-ring. The best bet is just put a couple drops of after run on the o-rings to lubricate them which will help a bit. This is normal and over time o-rings are going to need to be changed out but frankly I would not worry about it for a looong time! Hope this helps!

Regards,

Ron

hyperc10 07-01-2010 07:33 PM

Sitting in the point series 9th in State with this engine working on 4th gallon I love it great engine!!

Werks 07-01-2010 09:40 PM


Originally Posted by hyperc10 (Post 7617305)
Sitting in the point series 9th in State with this engine working on 4th gallon I love it great engine!!

Awesome! I wonder how many people thought that they would be kicking but with a $199 engine lol!!

mrbusta 07-01-2010 09:45 PM

werks ygpm
thanks for the reply
i have sent u another pm
look forward to hearing from ya

jpz_67 07-02-2010 08:40 AM

Ok guys, I dont mean to beat a dead horse but I invested in a B5/2013 and was fitting everything in my mbx6 buggy last night and ran into pipe clearance issues. If you just install everything as it comes out of the package the pipe sticks way out of the chassis, to be more exact the middle of the pipe is sitting on top of the stone guards. I thought about bending my header some but this seems it will only bring the front of the pipe in rather than the whole thing. I had some extra headers laying around so I did some testing. I tried a mugen mbx-80 header which has a tighter radius, this gave me the clearance needed but does not fit correctly on the pipe and I would probably have to drill some holes for the pipe springs to line up. Has anyone found a different header that works with the 2013 with little to no mods? I really want to use the 2013 on my new motor.

jnslprd 07-02-2010 09:19 AM


Originally Posted by jpz_67 (Post 7619439)
Ok guys, I dont mean to beat a dead horse but I invested in a B5/2013 and was fitting everything in my mbx6 buggy last night and ran into pipe clearance issues. If you just install everything as it comes out of the package the pipe sticks way out of the chassis, to be more exact the middle of the pipe is sitting on top of the stone guards. I thought about bending my header some but this seems it will only bring the front of the pipe in rather than the whole thing. I had some extra headers laying around so I did some testing. I tried a mugen mbx-80 header which has a tighter radius, this gave me the clearance needed but does not fit correctly on the pipe and I would probably have to drill some holes for the pipe springs to line up. Has anyone found a different header that works with the 2013 with little to no mods? I really want to use the 2013 on my new motor.

we put 2 deep sockets,one in each end of the header and bent the header.

choose sockets that fit tightly in each end and squeeze lightly, you will feel it move. fits nice in my buddies mbx6 now.

Slimsh8t 07-02-2010 09:35 AM


Originally Posted by RB FIVE (Post 7608378)
An opinion is allowed. I'll leave your thread and let you regain control of yourself. Bye :o

Dude, You need take your DRAMA elsewhere.Nobody wants you here because you have nothing to add.We have these engines and are very satisfied with the performance and especially the support that Ron provides 24/7.:cry: you had a bad experience well get over it & move on.

smitty2802 07-02-2010 10:19 AM


Originally Posted by jpz_67 (Post 7619439)
Ok guys, I dont mean to beat a dead horse but I invested in a B5/2013 and was fitting everything in my mbx6 buggy last night and ran into pipe clearance issues. If you just install everything as it comes out of the package the pipe sticks way out of the chassis, to be more exact the middle of the pipe is sitting on top of the stone guards. I thought about bending my header some but this seems it will only bring the front of the pipe in rather than the whole thing. I had some extra headers laying around so I did some testing. I tried a mugen mbx-80 header which has a tighter radius, this gave me the clearance needed but does not fit correctly on the pipe and I would probably have to drill some holes for the pipe springs to line up. Has anyone found a different header that works with the 2013 with little to no mods? I really want to use the 2013 on my new motor.

I'm almost positive Mo uses a RE-11 team losi header and drilled out the holes for the springs...

i'm sure he can come on here and let you know for sure but I think he's out of town for work this week. So, it might be alittle bit longer for him to reply...

hope that helps

-DC-

liquidkool 07-02-2010 04:11 PM

Just got a b5 and an orion 2013 running on byrons pro driver and p3 plugs, very pleased so far got 10 tanks through her and it always fires right up still runnin rich at 150-160 with plenty of power


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