taking out the restrictor to set the idle gap is not wrong nor will it affect tune. The measurmeants Ron gave were a general gap size, as long as your close it's ok. I just wish I could get some decals::( (hint, hint)

thank you, and +1 on the stickers! I was hoping to get some with the 2010' package but no luck!

Its the Fuel. How do I know this. When I ran Odonnells it was very easy to tune. Changed over to the same Sidewinder your using and it turned into a tuning nightmare. It took me almost a gallon to get it dialed in the way I like it. As soon as im done with the rest of the gallon I have of the Sidewinder I will be using Werks fuel. Lower oil content 9%. Dont get me wrong the Sidewinder is good fuel just has a high oil content which seems to make things harder to tune. If im not mistaken Odonnells is only 8 or 9% oils also. Have you ran any other fuel besides the sidewinder? Did it run different ? Was it easier to tune and keep a tune?

+1 on this. Also, if your not allready, try a Odonnells 97T plug. It's a little on the colder side than say a P3, so the tunning window will be bigger.

Yes Ron does give general measurements but to say he said to take the restrictor out isn't accurate. It it going to make a critical difference...probably not.

There are some people out there like myself who are very literal, (or new or careful) and want to follow instructions as given. The difference in gap w/ or w/o restrictor is the difference in the thickness of the carb restrictor...5mm measured w/ restrictor could be 7mm w/o. But since Ron's giving general measurements the difference is negligible. On my initial B5 breakin I used my calibers to find plastic items of different thickness that I could stick into the carb throat and measure the idle gap. Yes, some may say I'm anal, my ex used to say I have Asbergers, I just say I'm specific and detail oriented.

To each their own, and yes decals decals decals ohhh and while we're dropping hints, banners too LOL!

If the idle stop was meant to be locked at a specific setting and then the LSN reference tuned to it, the idle stop wouldn't be adjustable. Obviously these are starting points. There's a right place for the idle stop, and a right place for the LSN -- using standard tuning techniques to set the LSN mixture and idle speed should work on the b5 the same as any other nitro motor.

Your Idle gap should not change if you pull your restictor out. If it's set to .7 it will be .7 always. Even if you use a smaller 5mm restrictor it will still be .7 since you are not measuring from the side of the restrictor. The restrictor does not rest on the throttle body, there is a gap inbetween. If it rested directly on the throttle body then you would adjust your idle off of it!

I agree w/ some of the statements, disagree with others, I think it depends on perspective. If you understand how to tune yours and I understand how to tune mine let's just agree that the B5 rocks. :)

ok well sorry but I think I got both answers:(:(
so we are at Ron said to start at .5mm......ok.....is that with the restrictor in or out???? it could be almost a mm different

It isn't really possible to set the idle gap correctly to a certain size with the restrictor in, so out. If you leave the restrictor in, you can't see the gap well. The restrictor is tapered at the bottom so it expands to basically the carb diameter near the bottom where the slide is -- it doesn't change the diameter of the system near the slide, only up higher to limit flow.

Hey guys just wanted to touch on the air gap discussion that is going on. In my break in/tuning instructions I spec. +/- 0.5mm. One thing to understand about air gap is that frankly the exact measurement is not critical. It can be .5mm, .7mm, .4mm or .8mm and it really will not make a difference. What is critical is that there is an air gap. In my instructions I quote aprox. 0.5mm with the reducer in. The reason that I say this is that most often I'm working on other peoples engines and when doing so to make sure that they even have an air gap (which is necessary in order to be able to tune the engine properly) I just pop the filter off and look down the throat of the carb. To start pulling reducers off etc. is just too much work so all that i make sure is that there is a visible air gap which I ball park at aprox .5mm (or roughly 1/2 the thickness of a credit card).

As HyperB5 mentioned the reducer does not rest on the slide, there is a gap underneath it so you can in essence set the air gap with the reducer out as some seem to prefer to do. Or you can set it visually with the reducer in, again it does not matter. What you want to do and what matters is that you are picking a point (whatever it might be) that flows enough air to allow you to easily adjust fuel flow settings on your carburetor.

Meaning that you have sufficient air going into the engine (due to your idle stop setting) that when you alter your fuel flow (i.e. increase or decrease your needle settings a few hours) it does not make such a dramatic difference that it throws you completely off. This is what will happen with a really small air gap, you basically have very little air flowing into the engine so you are in essence choking off the engine.

As you can probably imagine in this type of situation if you lean your LS needle 1-2 hours you are now way too lean, richen the LS 1-2 hours and now you are way too rich. Another scenario have a rich HS and set your LS so that you have a good idle start running your car around and feel that the top is really fat (rich) so you lean the HS a few hours (which in essence leans your LS too). So now your are too lean on the bottom but your engine is blowing smoke because you still have a rich top end and if you are a relatively inexperienced tuner your going to be all confused and your engine is going to be running like crap (and you know what you will hear lol, I bought a B5 and the thing runs like crap and no matter what I do it wont hold a tune! ;-). In a nutshell the person that sets a really small idle gap (or does not even set one to start with!) is going to be one of those guys that you see at the track chasing a tune all day long lol!

The easy way to avoid this is simply by making sure that you set a sufficiently large air gap (with the idle screw) so that you can tune your LS properly. Again how you want to measure it, with reducer in, reducer out, using a 6mm reducer or 8mm reducer does not matter, just please make sure that there is one there lol ;-) I simply said to pull off the air filter and look down the throat of the carb (as in with the reducer in) to keep things simple so that everyone would understand how to do this and to keep it at the basics because the people reading these threads have a very wide range of experience/knowledge. Hope this helps clarify things!

Regards,

Ron

Ron sorry to be kinda naggy buuuuut, any info on decals????

Hey 871, you've started quite the debate lol! In any case quite a bit of good advise has been posted which should help quite a bit, including the re-tuning tips that Marshon posted (thank you). Some pretty basic things but first please make sure that your clutch bearings are ok, clutch shoes are not dragging on the bell or possibly hanging up on the flywheel or washers, that you don't have a broken clutch spring and that your brakes are not dragging. These issues will be most noticeable when you try to accelerate out of really slow corners and will all have the effect of bogging the motor down (which will show in really slow acceleration out of the corners).

If everything is ok with the items listed above then you have to take a look at your tune because with the B5 and 2013 the last thing that you should be mentioning is slow acceleration lol, that set up has bottom end for days! So as Marshon posted, pop the filter off, set the air gap to aprox. 0.5mm, set your HS and LS flush. Fire up the engine see how it idles. Do not adjust the idle stop screw but rather if the idle is low lean the LS a few hours blipping in between until you get a smooth steady idle. Do the reverse (richen the LS) if the idle is too high. Once you have this set toss the car on the track, run it around for a few laps and see if you need more top end. If so lean the HS a few hours (this will have the effect of leaning your LS also so now you will hear your idle go up, so richen it a bit like described above), toss the car back on the track and keep on repeating this until you get the top that you want or you are in the 200-230'ish range.

Once you have that set if your car is still sluggish off the bottom then you know the engine and your tune is not the issue because it's impossible for the engine to be rich on the LS because it would not idle and it's impossible for it to be rich on the HS because you are seeing the temps. So then you have to start looking at clutch issues, brake issues, possible driver train and/or bearing issues. Also take a look at your throttle servo just to make sure it is operating correctly (as in the initial range of travel is not slow because of stripped or damaged teeth on the gear or you have some type of motor issues going on with it) as I've had this cause issues on one of my own cars before that had me scratching my head.

Regarding old versus new carb you will find that the new carb stays more consistent (over the course of a run) and maintains a more stable idle. The differences are not night and day but they are there.Hope this helps, let me know what you come up with or if you need more help with anything.

Regards,

Ron

Ya, I have not made any yet lol! Having said that, even though most people seem to use wraps and I've gone 6+ months at a time without selling a single sticker I've had several rather persistent people asking me about them lately so I'll see what I can do ;-) I'll also look into getting them included with engines in the future but this might take a little while as right now I have quite a bit going on.

As much as I would LOVE a wrap, I cant justify the price compared to a nice rattle can job(I only club race) so some decals would be nice:nod: I totally understand the production cost against the profit thing based on selling little, but I just want one or two so guess I just gotta deal with it.