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-   -   Houstons Engine Service H.E.S. (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/285444-houstons-engine-service-h-e-s.html)

houston 04-10-2013 08:48 AM


Originally Posted by jeromerc (Post 12030549)
Monty, we have a race on the 30th, if the engine arrives by then what will I need to do to it before I run it? How much fuel should I run through it before I race it?

Just be nice to it and keep temps under 220 for about 1500cc , always preheat

nolimit1984 04-11-2013 10:22 AM

hey monty i have the novarossi 28-7t was wondering do u know the stock setting on the carb and for a race tune where should the setting be about i know it may very but just looking to get close? thanks

houston 04-11-2013 03:31 PM


Originally Posted by nolimit1984 (Post 12035129)
hey monty i have the novarossi 28-7t was wondering do u know the stock setting on the carb and for a race tune where should the setting be about i know it may very but just looking to get close? thanks

i would reset carb to 5.75 lsn and 4 on hsn

these setting are counted from running needle all the way in (not too hard) and counting number of rotations as you run needle out

28 engines like their fuel ;)

jeromerc 04-12-2013 05:04 AM

Monty, have you heard of Nitro X fuel? Of these three what fuel would you run
Team Saxo, Nitro X or Sidewinder? These are the 3 fuels that I can get easily and they are at two different shops so supply should never be an issue. Tech Lube fuel and Dragon blood fuel are harder to get and the Dragon Blood is full synthetic I usually run Tech lube but I think since Team Saxo came in they have changed to them instead

houston 04-12-2013 06:00 AM


Originally Posted by jeromerc (Post 12037963)
Monty, have you heard of Nitro X fuel? Of these three what fuel would you run
Team Saxo, Nitro X or Sidewinder? These are the 3 fuels that I can get easily and they are at two different shops so supply should never be an issue. Tech Lube fuel and Dragon blood fuel are harder to get and the Dragon Blood is full synthetic I usually run Tech lube but I think since Team Saxo came in they have changed to them instead

I know a number of racers from australia use nitro x , i think its good but i really have no personal dealings with it

Ive talked to you about the rest , i would invest in some castor oil if i were you ;)

My ST-RR EVO 04-12-2013 10:26 AM

Any recommendations on which brand of bearings (and where to get them) I should use to replace the bearings in my Team Orion 5 port? According to their website, the front seems to be standard dimensions 7 x 19 x 6 and the rear a bit of an odd size 14.2 x 25.3 x 6.3 I can't find a rear bearing with the 6.3, only 6. If ceramics are the way to go in engines, that's what I'd like to use.

houston 04-12-2013 11:11 AM


Originally Posted by My ST-RR EVO (Post 12038921)
Any recommendations on which brand of bearings (and where to get them) I should use to replace the bearings in my Team Orion 5 port? According to their website, the front seems to be standard dimensions 7 x 19 x 6 and the rear a bit of an odd size 14.2 x 25.3 x 6.3 I can't find a rear bearing with the 6.3, only 6. If ceramics are the way to go in engines, that's what I'd like to use.

Price and quality try tko

jeromerc 04-14-2013 06:02 PM

Monty, yesterday I was at the track, I have tons of body roll and it is easy to flip. I know my ride height is a bit high but if I have it any lower the chassis slaps every jump, what else can I do to help make it quit flipping in the corners? I am going to try and change tires and see if that helps, but what about a smaller sway bar or maybe some camber? Changing to the 2013 chassis has helped with traction, but now it is too much in the turns

houston 04-14-2013 06:16 PM

Slightly thicker rear oil / spring combo , possible piston change , lower ride heighth , try other pistons w/ smaller hole volume , orrrrr stop flat landing! :lol:

Pretty much all cars flatland to a certain extent ;)

jeromerc 04-14-2013 08:20 PM

I thought flat landing was the way to go if there was no real landing to land on.... I plan on dropping it down a few mm next Sunday, and trying to change the rear oil, the Losi springs seemed to help a bit with the landings, I just hate hearing the "plop/slap" sound when it does land on all 4 wheels but I guess flipping is much worse than a slap sound

houston 04-14-2013 08:44 PM


Originally Posted by jeromerc (Post 12046584)
I thought flat landing was the way to go if there was no real landing to land on.... I plan on dropping it down a few mm next Sunday, and trying to change the rear oil, the Losi springs seemed to help a bit with the landings, I just hate hearing the "plop/slap" sound when it does land on all 4 wheels but I guess flipping is much worse than a slap sound

Watch the fast guys , you'll see they land slightly nose down then get on the throttle to gently get the car going forward instead of just bouncing

savageboy69 04-14-2013 09:02 PM


Originally Posted by jeromerc (Post 12045965)
Monty, yesterday I was at the track, I have tons of body roll and it is easy to flip. I know my ride height is a bit high but if I have it any lower the chassis slaps every jump, what else can I do to help make it quit flipping in the corners? I am going to try and change tires and see if that helps, but what about a smaller sway bar or maybe some camber? Changing to the 2013 chassis has helped with traction, but now it is too much in the turns

droop? i had the same issue, less droop worked for me

sn47som1 04-14-2013 09:12 PM

Hey Monty and friends! lets have a great outdoor season this year! I need a little advice. This is only my 3rd engine over 7 years in and out of the hobby. I only have 3/4 of a gallon through my current engine. I have popped 3 plugs so far being to lean (according to the slightly burnt P3 plugs) but performance told me it was rich with the smoke and sluggish driving getting up to speed. The Radical carberators are a bitch, stay away from them for some heads up, but the engines are powerhouses tho -my Nova carb will arrive in a couple days. I am worried about the engine a little I guess. I have been trying to dial in the tune but the finicky carb needs a frikkin master tuner just to do so, so I have been rich and lean inconsistently up until now popping some plugs and not getting ideal performance. I think I just need to keep leaning the bottom and richening the top, but that concept has seemed counter intuitive to me, and still its not dialed in. Im just hoping I havent killed the piston and sleeve already. If I temp it it has never even gotten above 185F!! Usually I can't get it above 165. So I am popping plugs between those temps! crazy I kno! Why can't they make a one set dialed tune carburetor out of the box. It would make the nitro hobby exponentially better in so many ways. I still have quite a bit of pinch. My engine will hold itself for 6-7 seconds before letting loose. Are there any other quick sure fire ways to see if I still have a lot of life left in the engine?

nrm1977 04-15-2013 12:55 AM

Monty what's the preformance difference from the plus 21-4 buggy (215.00) VS plus 4 btt (315.00)? Would a novice like me notice?

I did buy a 4 btt last year this time from you. I'm just trying to save a little money this season. Thanks!

Ps do you have both engines in stock?

houston 04-15-2013 05:22 AM


Originally Posted by nrm1977 (Post 12047187)
Monty what's the preformance difference from the plus 21-4 buggy (215.00) VS plus 4 btt (315.00)? Would a novice like me notice?

I did buy a 4 btt last year this time from you. I'm just trying to save a little money this season. Thanks!

Ps do you have both engines in stock?

The buggy comes with standard head button but is a great performer

There are a few worthy upgrades on the btt (cnc team piston ,ceramic rear and not sure i consider it an upgrade but a reallllllly low pro head)


Jerome , your engine cleared customs bro , woohoo


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