atta boy...go get em:tire:

:lol: Hell yeah

thanks Ali

great customers like you are truly appreciated bro !!

keep up the good running and go get em at WC ;)

Thanks Monty :blush:,

its your great products, services and support that keep us coming for more, more and even more.

i will go to the WC, will i get em over there?? we'll see :sneaky:

Scotty is on the mic
'' OUR 2010 IFMAAAAAAR TOOOOP QUALIFIEEEEER, REPRESENTIIIIING KUWAIT, DRIVING A LOOOOOSI CHASSIS, H.E.S NOVAAAAAROSSI ENGINE, SANWA RADIO............... ALI BULLAIL''
yoo Ali, wake up wake up, you gotta go to work :lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

cheers

:lol::lol::lol::tire::tire::lol::lol::lol:

Nice
 

Heck I'm rootin for you now Ali. Go get em......

wake up Ali , wake up !!!:lol:

FMS tuning issues
 

Hey guys I'm having issues tuning my FMS. Here recently the tune has been all over the place. Last night it was 85 degrees with low humidity. When I started it for the first time it made a sound on the starter box like a back fire. Then when I tuned (good crisp low end and what seemed to be good top end) the mid range was flat. It wanted to fall on its face in the mid range then just up to the top end. Any suggestions would be great. I am going to try tuning it again tonight.

-has around 3 gallons on it
-running Byrons Race 30 - 11% oil
-running it in a MBX6T
-6.5 restrictor
-stock head shims
-41005 header and 9853 SS pipe
-the needles are flush
-temps around 230
-good smoke

Thanks,

Rick

I've had a few mills like this from different manufacturers...

I've found in nearly every case the bottom was lean. I would be where you are...coming off idle hard, a flat place or maybe even a stumble through the mid, then a good wind out.

Having a few Werks mills really opened my eyes about fattening up the bottom...I ran my motors so lean on the bottom it's a wonder they didn't detonate....well, some did.

Other guys would load up and flame out at extended idle...I could idle for days...thought I had it dialed. Until it was explained to me that what's they SHOULD do....

I'm my no means savvy...but I get good performance and extended life outta' my mills...your mileage may differ.

Hurray!!! My N21R outputs the expected low and top-end performance, now it's shimmed at 0.7mm (for 25%). It's still a bit lower than I'd really wish on torque, but top rpm is in the upper quintile I'd say (086HS pipe). Initially I tried to make it work with a #6 Nova, but I just couldn't get it right, it would still overheat, then I went to Odo77 and suddenly it woke up and started being consistent. No flameouts, despite a slightly rich LSN to protect temps.

Now if I could only go past 8:30 runtime I'd feel even better ( I don't think the LSN can add more than say half a minute). If I have time I'll try to put the 9901+41030 back on it to see if runtime picks up.

Thanks all for the help - Sunday is raceday, nothing feels better than beating $450 mills with a $150 one, I'll let you know how it goes :nod:

Paul

Will this driver work for removing Novarossi screws? Whats a Hudy alternative?

http://edsracingproductsstore.com/in...d&productId=64

You need a 5.8mm slotted driver for Nova head screws. I'm pretty sure EDS makes one.

They work...but they're super hard. I've chipped more than one Hudy on tight head screws...it was a tuning tool, after all.

Can't beat a good fitting Crapsman for head screws...find one with the perfect blade thickness...then remove the girth for a perfect fit in your heads counter bore...

its a 5.0mm so i believe it should work but not the exact one

cheaper than 30$ hudy driver ;)

your carburetor is just out of balance and you should try to run the 41021 header on the truggy with that engine . everything else seems ok , odonnell 97t plug ;)