it will fit just fine, the .3mm wouldnt make a difference, its the best front bearing available, i use it on all my engines, Novas and Sirios.

cheers

Ali

Read back through ;) the answer is yes it will fit

Paul- there are minor differences in the crankcase if you look closely , the bf case is the 821b case and has extra fuel diverters cast in . Your n21r should not be far behind in performance at all if any though . U sure your friends is stock?

Also check to make sure your head button is not loose in the cylinder , if it is remove some shimming and run it at .6mm

P5
+4
P5
+4
P5
+4
P5
+4
????????????????????????

Just to conferm, I have yet to make any shim adjustments at this time but I am going to tare my MBX and my Toro Nero apart tomorrow. I would like to know for sure the best shimming for the Toro Nero Team using Byrons Race 25% fuel. I am hoping the answer is do nothing as it comes with the perfect shimming which is?

Thanks
Sean

do nothing as its perfect for 25%

it comes with .80 shimms, 2 .30 and 1 .20

cheers

Ali

fms
 

Wrong post

Get BOTH, man im reading ur sig, ur what i'd call a BALLER...L:eek:L...looks like u have some skills, im LOVIN my plus4,best motor i see out there, do u have the new team edition one yet in your arsenal?

LOL

a baller because of the different car brands i run or because of the titles??

i have an H.E.S P5 and am loving it, it gave me my national title, my plus 4 is the 09 tuned one not the new team edition. i love both and not sure what to get again.

i guess i got few skills :lol: will see in Pattaya

cheers

Ali

My two cents
 

I just finished breaking in and racing a toro team, one race, haven't had it that long yet, but it is shimmed at .80 for 30% nitro from the factory.

I took out the brass .20 shim, and replaced it with a .10 copper shim giving it .70 for break in and running with 25%....Seems to be pretty happy......

So .80 for 30% and .70 for 25%? thus meaning I need to do the same and remove the one shim and replace with a .10?

Thanks
Sean

thank you for taking the time to type this :)

I run a mbx-6. I am geared 13/44 (stock is 13/46, a lot of people also run 14/46, I like the 44 spur as it sticks out less so less risks of stalling when landing the big jump at my home track), so that's a fairly "normal" ratio.

My buddy runs an xray, and his overall final drive ratio is fairly close. I know his mill in and out - he bought it on my advice, from a very mainstream shop, as we were teaming up for a 4h enduro race in october last year (1 car - 2 drivers). We broke it in together, I did all the prep work on the car+mill combo and we ran it in my car (that's the deal - one year he provides the mill and me the car, and the other year it's the other way round). His mill is as bone-stock as can be. And for the record we won that race against some serious local names, with an almost trouble-free run...


Top end per se on myengine isn't the issue, really. I mean I can live with a few less rpm's, but I have the feeling the mill can't really clear its throat if I don't lean the crap out of it, and then it overheats (both with 086 and 9901) and start losing grunt and idle way to high and being impossible to restart. Really, what worries me is its absence of grunt at low rpm, I can't safely clear the double right after that hairpin at my track, despite being line up, having traction, and all. A key symptom of absence of torque is that I have to do it purposedly to break traction at low rpm. That makes an easy car to drive, but it can be frustrating during dogfights in the infield. And yes, the car is setup properly and the driver isn't world champ but not to shabby either ;)


I'm already running the (stock) 8mm venturi.

I'm also running a Plus4 carb (the stock carb on the N21 is an older design, the idle screw is a pita to get to...)

I sealed it (carb, pinch bolt, backplate) with lucky7. Fuel lines are new, tank cap is perfectly tight...

I'd like to not buy another pipe for it, as my 9901's (I have 2) are perfect for my ToroNero and Plus4... and I just bought the 086 (on Mr. Houston's advice, who usually is pretty spot on) just for the N21r...

I'll ditch the novas #6 ( I only have a couple left anyway) and try odo99 or mccoy8 (have a few of both).

Not clear on your shimming reco - are you recommending I run 0.70 for 25%, as opposed to the 0.8 it might be shimmed at?

thanks much :blush:

Paul

Monty - thanks for stepping in.

Yes my friends is as bone stock as can be. We know what makes a fantastic mill is the fit between parts, so he might have been just fantastically lucky, but still ;)

Ok - one more vote for shimming then... I'll pull it apart and check how much it has.

I'll have a look at this closely. You do confirm the 086hs is the hot pipe for this engine, right? (which would be great as I really really like the fit and finish of this thing... I got the hard anodized version, amazing they sell the whole thing for less than $60!!!).

thanks :blush:
Paul

Or 1 alu 0,3 and 2 cobber 0,2 - if you have one extra 0,2 in your box :)

Is anybody familiar with the RB Engine Protect. I am a sucker for new gadgets and have purchased and installed one on my back up RB WS7III to see how it preforms. I was thinking of using it on my Plus 4C as well. Fit and finish is top notch! The concept makes sense to me. My concern is the extra rotating mass of the part itself. Would it have the same effect as a heavier flywheel? Could it damage the crank or bearings? Any thoughts from you engine experts? I am a big believer in products that help extend the service life of my nitro engines!
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Engine-Protect

Don't see what it could hurt....I personally would welcome the extra mass.