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Old 05-06-2010 | 12:38 PM
  #1231  
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Originally Posted by Chris Peralta
We are talking about the C6USA, this engine came with a Rody modified crankshaft, and head button. It's MUCH more than a C6 or a B9 as far as performance is concerned.

Everything is interchangeable but putting a B9/B10 crank in it will really change the powerband of the engine. If you have the USA engine already and the crank is in good shape drop a new piston sleeve and rod set in there and be set!!
I don't believe you understand what Uriah meant. It won't be a B9/B10 crank when he's done with it. I've never seen an RB run like a Murnan modded one. Trust me. Now i hafta run mine sat, can't stand it anymore.
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Old 05-07-2010 | 01:20 AM
  #1232  
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how much difference is there between the 1164-14B and the 1164-14B/R crankshaft

I can see that is missing the counter weight and coating, but are the intake and turbo cuts the same?

http://www.mst-modellbau.de/motoren-...prod_2644.html
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Old 05-07-2010 | 07:12 AM
  #1233  
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Originally Posted by TIX
how much difference is there between the 1164-14B and the 1164-14B/R crankshaft

I can see that is missing the counter weight and coating, but are the intake and turbo cuts the same?

http://www.mst-modellbau.de/motoren-...prod_2644.html
1164-14B is a designed offroad crankshaft that has a tungsten weight in it, that is all that is done to that crankshaft from a standard C6 crank.

1164-14R also has the weight in it and like you mentioned it has the coating on it but the opening on the crankshaft for fuel entry is opened up a lot, it is an onroad crankshaft so it's open sooner and stays open longer. Also the middle of the crank that funnels the fuel to the turbo cuts is opened up more, the turbo cuts are also cut in deeper on the face of the crank. The timing of this crank makes the engine seem pretty violent but I love it in a truggy!!!

It looks like the site your looking at might be showing the wrong pic with the part number. Look at the last two on this page. http://www.rbproducts.com/mainEn.php...x=0&image2.y=0
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Old 05-07-2010 | 03:29 PM
  #1234  
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Default C6 is a beast!

I just bought a slightly used C6 from a buddy for my XT8. The motor has less than a gallon on it, and it is a beast. The problem I have is that I keep burning up clutch bearings. I am running the Xray alum 3 shoe setup, and I feel that I have more than enough play on the clutch bell. I can't make it thru a race day without changing clutch bearings. Anybody have any good ideas??
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Old 05-07-2010 | 03:52 PM
  #1235  
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so my question is. seeing you cant but these rody cranks anymore. would you buy this crank and open the turbo cuts and throat up more?
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Old 05-07-2010 | 03:54 PM
  #1236  
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Originally Posted by gasman007
I just bought a slightly used C6 from a buddy for my XT8. The motor has less than a gallon on it, and it is a beast. The problem I have is that I keep burning up clutch bearings. I am running the Xray alum 3 shoe setup, and I feel that I have more than enough play on the clutch bell. I can't make it thru a race day without changing clutch bearings. Anybody have any good ideas??


tko clutch bearings the best, get them.
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Old 05-07-2010 | 08:04 PM
  #1237  
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Originally Posted by gasman007
I just bought a slightly used C6 from a buddy for my XT8. The motor has less than a gallon on it, and it is a beast. The problem I have is that I keep burning up clutch bearings. I am running the Xray alum 3 shoe setup, and I feel that I have more than enough play on the clutch bell. I can't make it thru a race day without changing clutch bearings. Anybody have any good ideas??

Well the only thing on the engine that would cause clutch bearing issues would be the crankshaft being worn out where the clutch bearings ride. When you pull the clutch bearings off feel the end of the crankshaft, it should be nice and smooth. If there is only a gallon on the engine this really should not be the case tho. If you have a clutch that really slips a lot and gets really hot that will kill bearings. If your gear mesh is too tight that can also kill bearings with all the chassis flex.
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Old 05-07-2010 | 08:09 PM
  #1238  
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Originally Posted by TIX
so my question is. seeing you cant but these rody cranks anymore. would you buy this crank and open the turbo cuts and throat up more?
I think that would be the best option if you have access to equipment to do it, or if you have a modder that does a lot of crank work like that. It's not a drastic mod it's just opened up quite bit.
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Old 05-08-2010 | 11:23 AM
  #1239  
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Originally Posted by Chris Peralta
I think that would be the best option if you have access to equipment to do it, or if you have a modder that does a lot of crank work like that. It's not a drastic mod it's just opened up quite bit.
I think those cranks might still be able to purchase but they are expensive really expensive.
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Old 05-08-2010 | 08:57 PM
  #1240  
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Don, the Shark 9 looks killer......time to break it in tomorrow
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Old 05-08-2010 | 10:19 PM
  #1241  
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Originally Posted by tandman
Don, the Shark 9 looks killer......time to break it in tomorrow
Pm me if you need any help or Chris P. is here to help too.
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Old 05-08-2010 | 11:14 PM
  #1242  
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anyone run RB fuel, any feedback
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Old 05-09-2010 | 02:07 AM
  #1243  
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Originally Posted by diamondracing
I think those cranks might still be able to purchase but they are expensive really expensive.
do you know where?
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Old 05-09-2010 | 09:16 AM
  #1244  
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Wher can we get RB fuel in Canada? Don, can you help us out on this one
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Old 05-09-2010 | 10:48 AM
  #1245  
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Originally Posted by TIX
do you know where?
I will find out tommorrow and get back to you I am sure that crank is around $250.00.....Expensive




Originally Posted by tandman
Wher can we get RB fuel in Canada? Don, can you help us out on this one
Dwayne I would have to find out what LHS in Canada might be able to carry it. I cannot ship RB Fuel to Canada.
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