I've got about 7.5 gallons on my K9 and this has been a geat engine. I'm running it with a RB 2045/192 combo. I'm getting right at 10 min tanks in my RC8T. this engine hasn't had one leak the entire time. It been really competitive as far as I'm concerned. The only thing I did is add one thin shim.

The K9 has more bottom than the ws7 and c5/c6 motors. that being said, it's not the same quality. my k9 needs a new oring in the hsn and the crank is worn where the clutch bearings ride. It's only a 10 min motor if you are easy with the trigger where I could do 10 with my c6bbt regardless.

I'm looking at a new motor and all of RB's new lineup looks good lol. I drove a HB D8T with a classico 9 and it had crazy power...go figure an on road motor with a different head. I think in order to run the Pro Series the K9 can do it, but I'm tempted to try something like the Rally 10 or Classico 10. I just don't want to lose that strong bottom end.

any thoughts?

Hmmm I usually get the best fuel mileage on a tight technical track as long as there is traction. If you also notice you are lacking a little bottom to mid with the C6 in a buggy I think there is something else going on. What kind of a car are you running and what is the gearing you are running? I am a huge believer in gearing your car for the track as well as the engines power band as all engines are a little different. Your clutch setup is also going to be a factor in fuel mileage, you want it to engage hard enough to get you over jumps with short runs but you don't want the tires spinning either. Your fuel can also play a part in fuel mileage, what do you run for fuel?

More than any of the above factors the tune on the engine will be the greatest. Your LSN should be very close to flush on a good race tune, the HSN can range from just out from flush to just in from flush depending on weather, fuel, and elevation. I have seen a lot of people in buggy set the engine a little rich because it is easier to drive, this can work to a point but in a race situation your fuel economy is going to suffer from it.

The part number is 01082

looks like A-main has them in stock. It is the same head button the C6/B9/B10 uses so you can probably find one on ebay as well.

Funny that you say the D8T was fast with the on-road motor. The C6USA actually uses an on-road crankshaft with the standard C6 piston and sleeve and it is a beast in a truggy. The on-road motors are designed for all out power for a car with a TON of traction so it can be a pretty violent power band in an off-road car.

The K9/10 engines have a pretty aggressive timing on the crankshaft somewhat similar to what an on-road engine would use, the B10 is not as aggressive but like you said it also gets better fuel mileage. If you really do like the K9 a lot I would say get yourself a new K10 and stick with what you like.

I´ve bought a used mbx6 with K9 and Rb 2045 Reso.

Can anyone tell me how I can see if I have a 192 or 198 manifold? Which one works better?

The easiest way to tell is look for numbers on the header it's self. It is most likely a 192 header as the combos all come with 192 headers and the 2045 pipe combo comes with 192. Unless they purchased the header and pipe separate you should have a 192.

that's the best way to describe the classico 9, a violent powerband even with a 6.5 restrictor! I really liked how it felt a lot stronger than my k9 on bottom and top, but not as smooth. most of the time was 1/4 throttle to clear even big jumps. on a loose track it would be a handful for sure.

Good info Chris, I was confused with all the new models. now to decide b/w the two or both.

Ok guys, The K9 is an excellent engine teamed up with the 2045 pipe and 192 header......ran it for the first time today in a race situation and had no tuning issues at all and had really decent power considering that it only had about 8 tanks through it before I started the day...so it is still in the running it slightly rich stgae....next weekend I will get to lean it out a little more and realy start to see the power come in

I can never embed videos!!

what is the part number for the c6usa crank
i lost my manual and i want to rebuild it

1164-14B/R or 1164-14/R It's the same crankshaft they just added the B for the parts listing for the buggy engine. This may be very very hard to find because these were Rody modified cranks and he has not been there for quite some time.

all of the RB 10 engines are in stock at www.absolutehobbyz.com

im looking to get the rb hobby 9 5 port engine , which i know replaced the s5
im gone to use it. on my truggy whould the, jp3 pipe work good on this engine?

i dont have enough for a rb pipe, also is a 5 port more of a top end engine and less bottom or both? if the jp3 doesnt, work good than would the jp1 or jp2 work better?

and also i race on a techinal big outdoor track.

You would be better off with a 086 pipe, rather than the JP pipes, JP's tend to run hotter than most, and fuel mileage isn't as good. The 5 port, is more of a bottom end engine, it will run well in a truggy, if you get a Dynamite 086 pipe and manifold are about 50 bucks.

anybody know?