The same old story once again... I would say, that those who think they are better tuners because they can tune an engine with a (too) cold plug, are worse tuners and/or more careless than the rest of us!
To tune an engine for cold plugs, you'll have to tune the engine very lean. It's not difficult to set the needles until the engine screams on the straight, say "ding ding ding" when you go down to idle etc. etc.. To know the sweet spot on the needles and then turn them 1 hour out, requires much more experience.

"My RB (Nova, OS, Ninja) engine is built to run lean!" HOGWASH!!!! :D
You run a very good engine, but NO engines are built to run lean. Perhaps low budget engines will loose the compression faster than a high quality engine, but the top $ engine would be able to run 2 x as much fuel through it, if you LEARN TO TUNE IT correct!

I have found that Odonell 97T plugs works the best for My F11.
I also run 30% and Idles, runs, everything great.

What I don't understand is why everyone wants to argue about it. Either try what is suggested/recommended for these engines or do it your own way.... Or be a follower and just do what everyone else does because they said so. Isn't part of this hobby figuring out what works best for YOU??? I personally like to do things my own way to make things work for ME. Maybe I am this way because of the extreme altitude I race at there wasn't anyone online with good advice to help me up here, so I figured it out on my own by trying different things. If you screw up an engine because you want to try something not recommended that's your prerogative and your welcome to screw up as much of your own stuff as you want.

All I am saying is try the C5TGC. Hell one guy in here already did and reported back that it fixed his issues. Also remember, some of the fastest team drivers out there can't tune an engine on their own so being a sponsored driver does not make someone an engine expert or a tuning expert...

So I recently picked up a deal on a parts lot here on tech and in the box of stuff was a C5 engine. I reassembled the motor and it feels like it has a ton of pinch and the bearings feel smooth. Since I am a Go engine guy and know nothing of RB, is this motor any good? What is it best suited for and what pipes are recommended? Also does this motor have any bad habits I need to be concerned about if I decide to try it.

There were a few versions of the C5. Some have turbo plugs and some have standard. Both are good engines, and should work in a buggy or a truggy. Try out numerous different pipes on it to see what feels best to you for what your running it in. RB2045 is what I always ran on mine. If you have 2058 or a 2013 those will work. I have heard many people say a Go 5 port is very similar to a P5 which this engine is also similar to so one of your Go pipes may work ok too.

hey guys, looking to upgrade my savage xl engine, and came across a brand new rb mt9. i have been told its the same thing as the mt10 and mt11 but i know nothing about these engines.. is it anything compared to a picco 28 or lrp 30? i know its a .28 and i guess its a racing engine.. thats about it lol.. would this engine be a good choice for my savage xl? does anyone know anything about these engines? i cant seem to find much.. any info would be great

I'm also keen to know about the RT10.. I can get one brand new for €99 shipped.. I orginally got a 454 for my DM-1, but ended up putting it in my second, engine-less LST2, thinking only for break-in. But now I don't really feel like taking it out and changing it all up for the DM-1.. Am thinking now of just finding some really cheap .28 for it.. So, how's the RT10?

pipe for rb rally 11
 

i am buying an rb rally 11 to run onroad in my kyosho gt2. what is the best pipe for top end and good bottom end?

i currently run an rb .28 rt engine in my kyosho gt2 onroad. it has incredible top end and also strong bottom end. my engine runs at 220 degrees. but i think a rb rally will be even better for this car. planning on getting one after using up the rt10.

I've got the 1/7 DM-1, which is probably quite a bit heavier than your IGT2.. I've tried a couple .21's in it, and I just feel like due to the weight and gearing, it needs a .28 to muscle it up to top speed sooner. I have a new Fire 11 sitting here, and have considered trying it in the DM-1. But even as powerful as the Fire 11 is meant to be, I still wonder if it would have the mid-range grunt to push my DM-1 the way it needs to be..

Really thinking about getting this RT10.. Couple more questions:

1.) Is it a PIA to break-in - i.e., tons of pinch, needs a gallon, etc?
2.) What pipe do you run? I don't want to buy a new pipe. Probably my best bet from my existing pipes would be a NR 9901/short header. I also have a 2063, JP-4, and 053... I also have the 2087 from the Fire 11 Combo but am planning to sell it new and recoup some money.
3.) Plug? Same deal with needing the hotter plug as with the F11? I see it's a standard plug engine. Would OS plugs work?

Thanks..

Chris, I just picked up a C6 USA head button, brand new on ebay, also with the piston and sleeve, I have a crank , Case, and cooling head that are Also
USA version, which way does the head button notch set on the case?

So what looks like a turbo cut on the head button will face the exhaust port when installed. Good find man!!!! Where did you score a USA crank? Reno tracked one down for me last year when he was in Texas so I have that one and the one in my original engine, but neithe rone is new anymore. I knew I should have bought a few more of those engines when they were available.

Well if your gona run it in onroad you may want to try the 2092 pipe. If you have any version of the 2058 you may want to also give that a try. When I first got my rally I ran the 2092 pipe with an offroad header and it was to much for my buggy in the dirt.

I have never ran the .28 engine so I can't give you guys any good feedback on the power or the ease of breakin or anything. I can't even say if it does or does not need hotter plugs.

I do know you cannot use the OS standard plugs. The OS standard plugs are all short body plugs unless you buy the OS LC3 TMAXX plug that was made for the traxxas engines.