What kind of glow plugs are these? I remember when I first started running RB I was not able to find RB plugs and I picked up some Novarossi plugs... Well it turned out I purchased cold body plugs and they acted like you are describing. So like Kiwi said... maybe a hotter plug is what you need or you have the wrong plugs.

I would definitely look at the plug. Also I have seen this issue from a bad tune. RB engines, and many others from the factories, come VERY rich on the low side needle and compensate that with the carb being open even further to allow for it to idle during break in. I have had a similar issue to you with bad carb settings. I see you have changed the glowplug 4 times which indicates either you have bad plugs (not likely) or possibly the wrong plug for the engine.

Since the issue seems to happen more when hot (100c or 212f) would actually indicate more of possibly being too rich or with too cold of a plug.

Turning the idle up a quarter to half of a turn may help isolate the situation but is a temporary fix for either condition.

Hey guys,

The plugs im using now are RB:s turbo 6 ( I went through 3 of these) and then i got the turbo 7 and the results are the same! reach a 100 celcius and it dies.. I raised the idled like Chris said and played very genly around with the LSN but without success, then all needles to factory sett,, good till 100 then died, rasied idle, leaned LSN died, raised idle to wheelspin, died, LSN leaner,, died!! now ive ordered new plugs and getting RB fuel, or odonnel.. currently using 20% Graupner (currently living in Germany, and they dont ship fuels through post, so hard to get good fuels around my area!!!!!) with extra 2 % oil new plugs will be : O´donnel Turbo Medium ODO97T

Daniel

Keep the RB 6s or 7 and you should be fine. Are the plugs dying out? Test them out of the vehicle and see if they glow bright red within 1-2 seconds.

all plugs glow fine

If you go from RB 6 or 7, to an odonell 77, the odonell plug is.much hotter than what you have been using, the RB 6 is hotter than the RB 7. I would think the hotter the engine is getting, the more chance of an air leak, heat expands metal, which means it opens up areas, that may be sealing well when cool, or cold. What are your outside temps in Germany now? Also the humidity?

IMO a #7 plug is way too cold. I myself only run the hot #5 plugs unless it's close to 100 degrees outside, then I will use the 6. Also I saw you post that your close to factory settings... That is very rich!!!

Along with nitronutz questions can you also please let us know what your elevation is? Have you also pulled the head button off the engine to ensure it has one thin and one thick headshim?

Chris, in other countries, they don't have the drastic changes in elevation as we do in the states, it's there longitude and latitude that differs with tune, kinda like our elevation, but I don't have a clue in tuning to that.

It almost sounds as though there is something else going on, maybe check all the exhaust gaskets, when the exhaust does not get the pressure needed, it can do crazy things that can seem as tune being off, it will cause engine to run on like its as well.

In Germany now we have around 20 celcius, +-5, and humidity, i have no idea, I guess since this engine tune has taken so long, i have went through a couple of humidity changes..

Chris: do you imply that I should use colder plugs? I mean, its quite warm here now. .

Ive also considered an air leak, going to check that as well, going to reseal the entire engine..

Havent checked shims, will do it now..

How do i check the exhaust pressure??

Daniel

To me it sounds like you need a hotter plug or the tune is just way too rich.

The reason I asked about the head shims is that it's always possible there was a human error and there are too many shims installed in a new engine.


As for your exhaust pressure, the best way to tell is to look close at the connection to the header to engine and also header to exhaust. If you see any oily buildup you want to replace those exhaust gaskets.
Before the engine dies at idle is your idle nice and stable and it just drops really low and dies or does your idle bounce from low to high and then finally die?

cool, Ill have a look,

The stop part happens in two versions, sometimes its idling really nice and then it just stops without any raise or drop of idle, and the other is that it idles fine and stable, then there is a small drop and then it dies..

Hi everyone,

I am the new distributor for RB products in the USA. If you have any questions, feel free to email me: [email protected]

Check out rb-usa.com for more information.

Jim Hottinger
Fusion Motorsports

P.S. I have not posted on this forum for a very long time, please forgive any errors or mistakes and the ability to post links. :lol:

To me that sounds like a fairly stable idle so it does not sound like an air leak to me but anything is possible. Are both of your needles still out from flush? Generally if it idles nice after reving the engine up and then drops down to a lower idle the LSN is set too rich which will cause it to load up and die, especially with too cold of a plug. The colder the plug is the more exact you have to be with the tune in general.

Thanks for keeping the stuff coming into the US!!!! I sent ya an email :D