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Old 03-16-2009 | 08:20 AM
  #166  
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I am having a hard time finding a 2045 kit for a good price. GS hobbies had it listed for $95 but they don't even know when they will have them in stock. I have a brand new C6 waiting for it (thanks tom-ralleybmx)!

-Keith
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Old 03-16-2009 | 11:47 AM
  #167  
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Can I get some help please on my previous post, thanks
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Old 03-16-2009 | 06:15 PM
  #168  
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I run my RB slightly rich on the top and slightly lean on the bottom. Runs like a swiss clock!!!! Try a hot plug. Run it around and try to get it up to temp. Lean out the lsn until you get a good snap on the low end. Then lean out your hsn but not a lot!!! Then go back to the lsn and lean or richen it depending on performance. Then lower your idle stop screw to where your engine will purr like a kitten!! Lean out your lsn till it holds a good idle and doesnt load up. Dont worry to much about the top end. Its a S7!!! Your only using top end for about 3 to 5 seconds depending on how big your track is. Concentrate on your lsn. Hope this helps. Keep us informed.
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Old 03-17-2009 | 01:16 AM
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Thanks for the info, gonna try this tomorrow,,, gonna be 70 here in ohio, outdoors in March!, track was great on sunday,,,,,thanks again.
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Old 03-17-2009 | 06:22 AM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by killerX2
I am having a hard time finding a 2045 kit for a good price. GS hobbies had it listed for $95 but they don't even know when they will have them in stock. I have a brand new C6 waiting for it (thanks tom-ralleybmx)!

-Keith
Yea, they are not cheap, A-main has them for the same price, try rc-planet.com they had pipe and manifold for 98 bucks, the last time I looked, make sure they have them in stock first.
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Old 03-17-2009 | 06:24 AM
  #171  
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There also is a ebay store that has them, about 115 for pipe and manifold.
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Old 03-17-2009 | 04:07 PM
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I work at a hobby store part time, I'm in good with are sells rep at gp, she hooked me up. I called GP the day I seen the C6 USA engine, they had to special order it from RB. It took like 2 months to get it. Its still in the box, just waiting to be broke in.
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Old 03-18-2009 | 12:16 AM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by aznitronut
Yea, they are not cheap, A-main has them for the same price, try rc-planet.com they had pipe and manifold for 98 bucks, the last time I looked, make sure they have them in stock first.
Joe from Absolutehobbyz.com is your man #732-469-2202 . Call he has stock site does not show.
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Old 03-19-2009 | 05:30 PM
  #174  
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Does anyone run OS plugs in their RB?

I have an S7 L2G standard plug with just over a gallon of AT racing 25% through, and i've been using a #7 plug. It's been great, though my local hobby shops don't stock RB plugs, only the OS ones... I'm not really sure what a good equivalent would be.
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Old 03-20-2009 | 05:51 AM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by Weasely
Does anyone run OS plugs in their RB?

I have an S7 L2G standard plug with just over a gallon of AT racing 25% through, and i've been using a #7 plug. It's been great, though my local hobby shops don't stock RB plugs, only the OS ones... I'm not really sure what a good equivalent would be.
They will work, but I would not recomend using them, they are shorter than the rb or nr plugs, the threaded end does not go as deep in the combustion chamber, like the longer RB or comparable plug.
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Old 03-20-2009 | 06:50 AM
  #176  
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Ah, cool, cheers for that.
Which brings me to the next obvious question; What is a comparable plug to the RB ones? I'd love to just stick to RB ones - and i'll likley order a bunch in when i have a mind - but in the meantime... i wonder what's similarly long?


Originally Posted by aznitronut
They will work, but I would not recomend using them, they are shorter than the rb or nr plugs, the threaded end does not go as deep in the combustion chamber, like the longer RB or comparable plug.
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Old 03-22-2009 | 05:50 PM
  #177  
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Default Engine trouble

Plugs aside, I've got another query about my engine that I hope someone here can help clear up now that the RB forums isn't accepting any more registrations...

I'm paying close attention to this engine, i'd love it to last, unlike my previous ones - I've got just over a gallon through, about 5L now, and its really coming to life.

Though i've also noticed that there's very little pinch in the sleeve when the engine's cold. I can turn it over without a lot of trouble by hand. Though, i suppose there seems to be ample compression when the engine's warm, so i've got nothing to worry about, right?

Also, when running this weekend, the engine took a rather abrupt hit to the cooling head after flying astray from our track's triples - directly into the launching ramp beside it. Bent a few cooling fins out of place, and the engine had stopped suddenly on impact.

It wanted to start up again afterwards, but its at this time i noticed the lack of pinch when cold, and i can also feel a 'clicking' of the crank near TDC, as the con-rod siwtches over in its rotation, if that makes sense.

Is it time for me to dismantle and inspect? Is this a sign of the con-rod needing replacement? I havent done that yet after run-in. I'd rather not pull it apart without due need - i'm fairly inexperienced.

Thanks for any advice.
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Old 03-22-2009 | 07:40 PM
  #178  
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I would sure look closely at the engine for case damage, I have cracked a case before like that above the engine mounts, click noise I would pull the engine apart, or at least the rear cover off and see if it is the conrod crank hole worn out or the pistion end has damage, the dieing on impact, most of the time is the element being knocked out of the glow plug, so before you spin that engine again get the glow plug out and make sure if it did loose the element that it went out the exhaust completely and didnt tear up the piston and sleeve.
Well that answered your post backwards, LOL. Post back if you have questions.
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Old 03-22-2009 | 10:26 PM
  #179  
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Alrighty, I should have known sooner that it was time to dismantle it. It's always been nerve wracking for me when i've tried

And stupidly, i tried turning it over again after the incident. It started, then died repeatedly at idle. Though, this didn't surprise me - the plug wire was already kinda in bad shape, and was doing this previous to the blow.

Will post back in with what i discover, maybe with pics :X

Originally Posted by JPMSRacing
I would sure look closely at the engine for case damage, I have cracked a case before like that above the engine mounts, click noise I would pull the engine apart, or at least the rear cover off and see if it is the conrod crank hole worn out or the pistion end has damage, the dieing on impact, most of the time is the element being knocked out of the glow plug, so before you spin that engine again get the glow plug out and make sure if it did loose the element that it went out the exhaust completely and didnt tear up the piston and sleeve.
Well that answered your post backwards, LOL. Post back if you have questions.
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Old 03-23-2009 | 02:40 AM
  #180  
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anyone know the us release date of the 9 series?

and 3001 pipe?
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