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-   -   REEDY .21 Nitro Engine (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/231893-reedy-21-nitro-engine.html)

DiaRh34 04-11-2010 06:47 PM


Originally Posted by skidoos (Post 7259419)
so u sayin add the extra shim along with whats in there?

nooo, as replace the ones in it with the one

Midnight 04-11-2010 06:55 PM

I would leave the shin stock until a gallon. As far as gearing I would go up one tooth for sure. U can try stock gearing first. U might like it. I got a bad throttle finger on slick tracks.

skidoos 04-11-2010 06:57 PM

ok thanx i will try that and see how it works, but i notice i dont have the top end as my rb c6 had

DiaRh34 04-11-2010 07:03 PM

Probbly a little early to tell if you just got it broken in

Jason Pelletier 04-11-2010 07:10 PM

Yo diarhea go up to the 14t CB it's better.


Been cheating on my reedy with the werks B5. Too totally different beasts. The Werks b5 is alot of power everywhere. The reedy is a smooth bitch. I like them both but the reedy gets the ill runtime and the sooper smoooothh powerband with bottom end.

I think i would recommend the reedy to newer drivers because experienced dooods know what they want !!! hahaha !!

skidoos 04-11-2010 07:15 PM

well next week will be the test and see, i noticed it got lots of bottom end, gonna try the 14 tooth and see, like i said i really liked my rb c6 so this would be a good comparison , esp at the price point compared between the 2 engines

Jason Pelletier 04-11-2010 07:22 PM


Originally Posted by skidoos (Post 7259626)
well next week will be the test and see, i noticed it got lots of bottom end, gonna try the 14 tooth and see, like i said i really liked my rb c6 so this would be a good comparison , esp at the price point compared between the 2 engines

Yea the reedy is quick for a 3 port, it has that 3 port low end. Up top it's decent but i don't think it is the fastest.

I think it's nice to try different stuff to really feel what's good for you and to see what the other's got that maybe you don;t have.

DiaRh34 04-11-2010 07:30 PM

I'll pick up a 14t sometime. I just got an answer 13t to replace the one that came with the 2.0 rtr which was a 13t too but it was wearing out

Chris Reilly 04-12-2010 12:21 AM

Maybe Brandon or Shane can shine some light on top-end and tuning. I posted what I had. Those guys might have some questions for yeah as well.

xxxtcr 04-12-2010 09:30 AM


Originally Posted by Chris Reilly (Post 7260726)
Maybe Brandon or Shane can shine some light on top-end and tuning. I posted what I had. Those guys might have some questions for yeah as well.

I can say since I have broken in 2 of them and been running them for about 2 gallons now, That they really dont come alive till after the 1st gallon. The bottom end is always great, but after that 1st gallon is up, even better after the 2nd one, they really wake up, the top is rediculous, and the bottom is even more brutal. Just be patient, they will wow you.

Jason Pelletier 04-12-2010 10:07 AM

They definitly wake up after a gallon or soo but i dunno.... It's a good fair priced reliable engine.
IMHO it's not a standout engine, good mill for the money and will serve you well.

wonder what the new one will be like.

Brandon Melton 04-12-2010 10:17 AM


Originally Posted by Chris Reilly (Post 7260726)
Maybe Brandon or Shane can shine some light on top-end and tuning. I posted what I had. Those guys might have some questions for yeah as well.

I have not run a production version ST engine yet, but have ran some of the same "parts" that will be in the engine. The top end performance is better on the ST engine, as for the standard engine we've been running for a year now here is what I see.

Yes, the stock engine will not compare the same to a ninja or speed on a 200ft straightaway, but how many of those do we really race on?? What I have been happy about over the last year is that I haven't flamed out of any mains engine related, my tune is always where I want it, and the motor is smooth enough to run consistent laps and time jumps. I judge an engine based off how average people will perform with it, not which top pro wins this week with what engine. Every person locally that has run the engine has gotten faster lap time wise because the engine is drivable and has a power band they can use, idles great and they finish races.

As for those concerned with "top speed". Most cars will benefit from going up one tooth on the clutch bell from what they usually run. The team drivers here in the US mostly run the 2035 because of the bottom end and mid range this pipe gives suiting our tracks. I tested the 2039 a while back and the pipe does help with top end on large tracks, and I have noticed some of the EU guys starting to list this pipe on setup sheets. Although I only carry a 2035 and 2039 with me to races, I have seen local guys use 086 and 2013 with good success. Between the combo of gearing, pipe, and a rear ceramic bearing, the top end of the engine in stock form can be competitive enough to compete at high levels.

Jason Pelletier 04-12-2010 10:30 AM


Originally Posted by Brandon Melton (Post 7262350)
I have not run a production version ST engine yet, but have ran some of the same "parts" that will be in the engine. The top end performance is better on the ST engine, as for the standard engine we've been running for a year now here is what I see.

Yes, the stock engine will not compare the same to a ninja or speed on a 200ft straightaway, but how many of those do we really race on?? What I have been happy about over the last year is that I haven't flamed out of any mains engine related, my tune is always where I want it, and the motor is smooth enough to run consistent laps and time jumps. I judge an engine based off how average people will perform with it, not which top pro wins this week with what engine. Every person locally that has run the engine has gotten faster lap time wise because the engine is drivable and has a power band they can use, idles great and they finish races.

As for those concerned with "top speed". Most cars will benefit from going up one tooth on the clutch bell from what they usually run. The team drivers here in the US mostly run the 2035 because of the bottom end and mid range this pipe gives suiting our tracks. I tested the 2039 a while back and the pipe does help with top end on large tracks, and I have noticed some of the EU guys starting to list this pipe on setup sheets. Although I only carry a 2035 and 2039 with me to races, I have seen local guys use 086 and 2013 with good success. Between the combo of gearing, pipe, and a rear ceramic bearing, the top end of the engine in stock form can be competitive enough to compete at high levels.

Yea it's great for drivers that may be learning or struggle with throttle control.

Plus it never flames out.:nod:

sider662 04-12-2010 10:32 AM

clutch bell
 
You might also try to go down a couple teeth on the spur instead of up on the clutch bell. Going down a couple teeth on the spur isn't as dramatic as going up one tooth on the clutch bell.

BSchorr 04-12-2010 12:02 PM

Couple things Ive noticed about this Reedy 121VR.

1. Takes forever to warm up and get to race tune! If your late getting to the driverstand before your race... Definately gotta run some hot laps!

2. The motor has tons of bottom end... I had Rex from RW Mods shim and advanced the piston timing to smooth out the bottom end.. Now she is very drivable when you go to tight, small, 180, driver tracks!

3. Seems like this motor runs best at 250-260, where other motors like RB and GO's you want around 220-230..

4. Cooling head is alittle on the small side... Anyone know or tried to see if a OS Speed head will fit on it?

5. Wakes up after 1+ Gallons! I broke it in with Trinity Monster Horsepower 30% with more oil content for the 1st gallon, and then changed to Byrons 2nd Gen Race Blend and she is a screaming! I run OS P3 plugs usually. but at 9$ a peice.. I may switch to Odonell 97T's at $5 a pop..

Anyone run the 97T's in this motor?

6. I absolutely HATE where the Idle adjustment needle is.. I like motors where the Idle adjustment is between the body of the carb and the cooling head.

7. The 2mm top end need screw is kinda handy. Easier and faster to adjust it on the fly.


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