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-   -   Trinity EXTECH .21 (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/222802-trinity-extech-21-a.html)

chevydc44 05-29-2009 11:06 AM


Originally Posted by cjtamu (Post 5873567)
Pinoy, I can find the engines, just not the head button I need. SMCracer you'll have a PM in about 2 minutes. Thanks for the help.

Try Tony's Screws they have head buttons

PinoyCali 05-29-2009 11:22 AM


Originally Posted by cjtamu (Post 5873567)
Pinoy, I can find the engines, just not the head button I need. SMCracer you'll have a PM in about 2 minutes. Thanks for the help.

mmmmmm..... Thats for RAWDAWGGA...lols

smracer31 05-29-2009 03:34 PM


Originally Posted by cjtamu (Post 5873567)
Pinoy, I can find the engines, just not the head button I need. SMCracer you'll have a PM in about 2 minutes. Thanks for the help.

Its in the mail, you should have it by monday :tire:

If anyone needs an ex-tech 1st gen block i have one with a brand new tko front ceramic bearing, stock rear bearing with 1 1/4 gallons on it.

Team Chambers 05-29-2009 06:34 PM

Team Epic's site is up and running.....

www.teamepiconline.com

dishsoap 05-29-2009 07:07 PM


Originally Posted by dishsoap (Post 5858513)
Any thoughts on this. I posted this in my local thread and I have some direction to go on. Its brand new and has about 6 tanks through it. It was the nitro box edition .21 extech.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcus Falconie
if it's a Trinity x-tech that is a Sirio, every one I know runs the P3 plug.

I guess I will have to try a P3. I have used a P4 from the get go and during break in, ran it last week on the track with no problems until now.

Jaz 130 off the box but I have gotten it 200 see below.


Right from the starter box about 130, however during the A main I was doing short laps aroung the oval before the start so temps got up to 200 before start. Once I started and ran the track it died.

Let me give everyone a play by play before I started having problems leading up to each race.

During practice I got about 5 laps in and it ran perfect. Cleared the tripple and ran smooth no problems. It handled awesome. I was excited because of how planted and smooth it was. The powerband was also perfect.

1st race. I got 3 laps in and it died. When I pulled it off the track I had lost 2hex bolts from the bottom on the motor mounts. This caused it to stop due to the fly wheel bouncing around. I also found that the clutch nut had came loose. I had a bad collet on the clutch and replaced it. Put everything back together and it ran perfect on the box.

2nd race. 2 laps in and it died. Here is where I started having the plug problems where it would only staying running until I pulled the ignitor off and then it died. Went and bought 2 new plugs. 1st new plug same problems, it was a bad new plug. Brian gave me one of his plugs to use. We got the engine tuned and ran perferct on the box. Tuned it up and it was performing great in the pit.

3rd race. 20 ft in and it died. We had a 15 min A Main so I pulled if off the track restarted it, idle was perfect low, mid, and high on the box was perfect. Put it back on the track without punching it 10 ft in died. Pulled back off and replaced the glow plug yet again with a new plug. Everything was perfect on the box. Got about 20 ft again and it died, I stayed in the pit for 5 mintues to make sure everything was ok before I put it back on the track. I had no problems during that 5 mintue period in the pit unitl I put it on the track.

After the race. I was so pissed I wanted to try and figure out what was going on. Without adjusting anything I fired it up and let it sit on the box for 10 to 15 min. During this time the idle yet again was perfect. I would let it load up and then I would hit the throttle no problems. I hit the throttle 1/4 in 1/2 in and nearly all the way in short bursts. No problems. So then I pulled off the box and though maybe it is only flamming out when I bump something which would tell me that if it turned off then it had to be a clutch bearing or something is making the clutch bind. While it was running I dropped in the floor a few times front tires first, all four tires and then the back tires. Nothing happend it stayed running. I then drove it on the cement back and forth a few feet and nothing was wrong. It was running perfrect. They were closing down and I turned it off myself.

This is why I am so confused as to what it happening. I know its hard for everyone to diagnose over a phone call or in these forums without being there.

Still having problems!!!!!

Here is what I have done so far to help remedy this problems I am having.

Completely rebuilt all of the diffs. Gears are good and all of the bearings are good.

Rebuilt the entire cltuch. Springs, shoes and bearings were good.

Checked the gas tank for air leaks under water and no leaks.

I fired it up after putting everything back together. It started right up and idle was perfect. Leaned the lsn 1 hour. It ran for 5 minutes and then flammed out.

Put it back on the box and it started right up again. Leaned the lsn 1 more hour and it ran for 6 minutes and then flammed out.

Put it back on the box started right up again. Ran out of time and had to put it way.

I have torn apart almost the entire buggy and rebuilt everything and still having problems.

Keep in mind its a brand new buggy 2.0.

I don't want to jump the gun yet but this engine is sarting to really piss me off. When it runs its freakin awesome. Of I can't even finish a race what good is it though. This seems to happen when the engine gets to proper temapture.

Please help...

Team Chambers 05-30-2009 06:21 AM

Dish,


How much fuel through it? When was last glow change?

When warm how long does it run with the "pinch test" assuming it is idling properly at low rpm?

When it is warm how does it feel at TDC? Tight or a lot of slop?

What does the glow look like when you take it out... Run it for a few minutes, let it idle 10 seconds or so, kill it with the flywheel, pull it out. Is it super wet ? If so it is way to rich. If so lean the bottom a bit more and richen the top a bit. Is the filliment distorted?

chickenfarmer 05-30-2009 06:58 AM


Originally Posted by dishsoap (Post 5875098)
Still having problems!!!!!

Here is what I have done so far to help remedy this problems I am having.

Completely rebuilt all of the diffs. Gears are good and all of the bearings are good.

Rebuilt the entire cltuch. Springs, shoes and bearings were good.

Checked the gas tank for air leaks under water and no leaks.

I fired it up after putting everything back together. It started right up and idle was perfect. Leaned the lsn 1 hour. It ran for 5 minutes and then flammed out.

Put it back on the box and it started right up again. Leaned the lsn 1 more hour and it ran for 6 minutes and then flammed out.

Put it back on the box started right up again. Ran out of time and had to put it way.

I have torn apart almost the entire buggy and rebuilt everything and still having problems.

Keep in mind its a brand new buggy 2.0.

I don't want to jump the gun yet but this engine is sarting to really piss me off. When it runs its freakin awesome. Of I can't even finish a race what good is it though. This seems to happen when the engine gets to proper temapture.

Please help...

have you inspected the inside of the motor?

What pipe and have you tried a different one?

romax 05-30-2009 07:39 AM

Sounds like you've eleminated the driveline as being the problem. I would highly recommend pulling the backplate off the engine (make sure piston is up) ck. for play in the rod bushing, also ck for loose particles that look like red rtv silicone. Some engines have had problems w/ the filler on the crank flaking off & getting into the engine it actually get's stuck in the glow plug electrode & fouls the plug. If you find nothing you may have a tuning or air leak issue. It only takes about 10 mins. to pull the backplate. If the engine is fairly new i would talk to Chad at team epic before i took engine completely apart. Keep us posted & good luck.

DRRC 05-30-2009 03:13 PM

What pipe works for the Extech II pretuned engine?
Would a dynamite HS pipe work, what about a JP1?
Thanks

dishsoap 05-30-2009 09:53 PM

Ok guys here is where I am at now. Good news and bad news.

I finally was able to go through 2 tanks and no flamming out. Here is what I had to do.

I think my lsn was fighting with my idle. As I started to lean out the LSN my idle would get higher. I turned my idle down and kept leaning out the LSN and so on. I got to a point where visible smoke was coming out but it starting getting to light.

It only flammed out a couple of times and when it did flam out it was at standing idle without the car moving.

I richend the LSN one full hour and good smoke was coming out.

Here is my new problem that I cant figure out. At perfect tune (which I think I am really close right now) at high speeds when I realease the throttle the engine sounds like its girgiling (somewhat under water) and its at a high idle.

To remedy this I turned the idle down however when I do this it wants to flame out again. I turned the idle back up and no problems except for the girgiliing sounds and high idle. It eventually drops but it takes to long.

When its girgiling if I blip the throttle it goes away and goes back to a perfect idle.

Now what is happening is when the car is sationary at idle, the idle goes up and down and up and down. At times it wants to engage the clutch but not bad.

Where do I go from here. Is there a problem with my engine? I think I have a good tune on it.

1armed1 05-31-2009 04:36 AM

Pull your airfilter to verify, but......

In most cases a extended high idle is often a sign that you are still to fat on the bottom with the idle gap open to far to compensate for it.

Pull the filter and check the idle gap.
It should be around 1mm.


Dayton

1armed1 05-31-2009 08:20 AM

Has anyone tried the RE11 pipe on the full mod version 1?

bottomline2000 05-31-2009 06:16 PM


Originally Posted by dishsoap (Post 5878376)
Ok guys here is where I am at now. Good news and bad news.

I finally was able to go through 2 tanks and no flamming out. Here is what I had to do.

I think my lsn was fighting with my idle. As I started to lean out the LSN my idle would get higher. I turned my idle down and kept leaning out the LSN and so on. I got to a point where visible smoke was coming out but it starting getting to light.

It only flammed out a couple of times and when it did flam out it was at standing idle without the car moving.

I richend the LSN one full hour and good smoke was coming out.



Here is my new problem that I cant figure out. At perfect tune (which I think I am really close right now) at high speeds when I realease the throttle the engine sounds like its girgiling (somewhat under water) and its at a high idle.

To remedy this I turned the idle down however when I do this it wants to flame out again. I turned the idle back up and no problems except for the girgiliing sounds and high idle. It eventually drops but it takes to long.

When its girgiling if I blip the throttle it goes away and goes back to a perfect idle.

Now what is happening is when the car is sationary at idle, the idle goes up and down and up and down. At times it wants to engage the clutch but not bad.

Where do I go from here. Is there a problem with my engine? I think I have a good tune on it.

Dish, do you happen to run Sidewinder fuel?

dishsoap 05-31-2009 07:10 PM


Originally Posted by bottomline2000 (Post 5881061)
Dish, do you happen to run Sidewinder fuel?

Byrons gen 2 30%

smracer31 05-31-2009 08:45 PM

Found an easy solution to fix my extech :smile:
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...1/DSC_4122.jpg


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