The non tuned grp's are what I think the best deal out there for the money right now. They are identical to the older grp ninja's just without the turbo head. I have two of them and they run excellent. One in truggy and one in buggy. I'm using odonnell 99 plugs and both are using a dynamite 007 pipe. Runtime in the buggy after breakin is around 8-9 minutes per tank. Truggy is around 10 minutes run time per tank. Both temp around 220 consistently. But I don't tune by temp I tune by sound and sight and performance. I heard from a couple people that the non tuned does run slightly warmer than the tuned.

Carolinasrc.com has the non tuned GRP on sale right now for $199 and then you can get $12.50 off by using this month's discount code.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...6/100_0035.jpg

I can't seem to post a new thread in the selling section b/c of some database error. I'm selling 3" nip GRP #4 plugs. $45 value. Asking $22 shipped US.Paypal

Hey guys any break in tips with the non tuned. It seems really tight and I can barely turn it over even after I heat it??

use this same procedure, it will be easy and perfect

http://www.losi.com/Articles/Article...ArticleID=1897

I heard idling is bad. I was going to try and heat cycle??

I use the heat cycle method to break in all my engines. I've never once had any engine failures and they always last a long time. I heat cycle my engines for 6 tanks. Then I put a race tune on it. One of my non tuned GRP's has just over a gallon on it and it still has a tooooon of metal pinch when cold.

Great! I just started itt up for the first time and put my first 3 minute cycl on it and it went perfect. Ample smoke out of the pipe and everything. It is about 5 degrees hear in new york so I thought I would use tin foil over my head to keep temps up but when I chcked my temps in the middle of my first run they were at 250. Should I just take the tin foil off or should I leave it one for a few more cycles??

If it's 5 degrees there and your engine is running at 250 degrees I would say you need to richen it up a tad bit. Make sure you have plenty of smoke at not only idle but all rpms. On the first tank you should have it rich enough to see excess unburnt fuel and oil coming out of the pipe. I broke mine in with it about 45 degrees outside and my temps even with foil were around the 180-190 mark during the heat cycle tanks.

sorry its 50 degrees here and with the foil it was running a 250. There is a nice trail of white smoke coming out of the pipe but its not dripping fuel. It is very boggy though so I think it is very rich. Should I still ichen it? If I do should I do both needles?

Take your temp on both the cooling head and the crankcase. The cooling head will be 10-15 degrees cooler than the crankcase. Make sure you do it right away because the cooling head does too good of a job.

I only took it on the cooling head. Would it be a problem to taake the foil off and just run like that?? There is abundant smoke coming out so I think its rich enough.

my tuned grp n ever got over 205 degrees on break in ...the only time it got around 220-230 was when i first cranked it ...before the first crank i leaned up the bottom a bunch ....big mistake ....i went back to stock settings after cranking the first crank ...and i just barely leaned the lsn a tiny hour at a time until it would crank and idle ....trust me it is very easy to get these motors to lean ....after i came to my senses ...it idled 3 tanks flawlessly at no more than 205 ...after having put a gallon on it and raced it 2 times ...its just a dream ....i was running as strong as anybody last race out ...i was running some practice laps while alan burton was fueling me ...he asked me do you want more ...i said its running awesome whats the temp ...he said 170 degrees ...i just said let it go ...ran that way all day ..plenty of power to spare ....i love these engines its no wonder they last many gallons if broken in right and kept clean ....

K great, I richened up the lsn and hsn 3 hours each just o be safe. This thing idles unbeleivably. First start up I hadnt touched the needles and it idled perfectly. Also one more question. I saw some blackish fluid around the screws that hold the engine onto the engine mount. What could this be? I wiped it off and am going to try to run it again and see if it comes back? I dont think its a leak though because it runs perfectly?

Are the screws tight? Sometimes if they are a little loose they will vibrate and wear a little metal off and if there is a little oil there it will turn it black.

yes as tight as I can get without stripping. Is this a problem because also now I see its bubbling? Also there is a decent amount of it kind of inching down to the flywheel??