I think it was jut going forwards because I was lifting the car up to get at the flywheel to get it out of tdc but would this problem cause a leak like I described??

???

GRP Long Cold Warm up
 

I raced my GRP .21 today and I noticed that it took a good 5+ mins before the engine balanced out. If I tuned it in too soon then 5 mins later it was very lean. I didnt notice this with my last GRP .21 that I have ran for the past 9 months or so since they came out. I know these engines are cold blooded bastards but the lean out was extreme to me. Is this normal or anyone else experienced this. I ended up idling the engine for at least 5 mins before I ever touched the needles.

i cant touch mine for a good 5 min

That looks like quit a bit of oil, but find it hard to believe that the case would be cracked. the GRP has a thick looking case. If you are running it rich still. it could be coming from your exhaust seals. Either from the rear, or from the joint where the header and pipe meet. Clean it good, run it for a minute, and check it. Its easier to track, if you check it right away.

Yeah, dont try to tune these when they are cold. Drive it a bit, get it up to temp, and then make your adjustments. With my GRP, I make most my adjustments in 1/2 hr increments, once im in the zone. They seem very sensitive to adjustment.

ya this was my 3rd break in tank so it was extremely rich so I think this was the problem. I am going to run it tonight and see.

I got my very first GRP engine and it's very difficult for me to tune. I'm on my 9th tank now but it is very inconsistent. I am aware that the tuning is very different from Novarossi engines. Can you please give me a starting point on needle settings? I seem to have a good bottom end resposnse with a thick trail of smoke but it will go flat as soon as I start to reach the top end. I turn the HSN at 1 hour turns but it does not seem to work. Am I still running the bottom end too rich? Or do I need to go leaner on the HSN I would really appreciate your help. Thanks in advance.

guys remember, These engines like to be rich on the top and lean on the bottom. If I remember My hsn is almost flush with the lsn in a little from flush. I will post back with my exact settings, but I would richen up a little from my settings just to be safe

tuning
 

tuning these engines are pretty much like any other you cant tune cold and tuning really depends on the weather conditions and temps of the day once you one gets used to tuning depending on experiance i guess you tune to ear and you know when your motor is running its best.... i never use temp guns to tune a motor my experiance where i race temps are always differnt but the grp motors certainly do run cooler than any other motor i have used in the past :nod: i like the grp awsome motors:nod:

If it is going flat on top, then I would suggest richening it quit a bit (3-4 hrs) to see if it gets better. If its goes too rich, you can always lean it out again. Rich is better than lean. Once you get the top right, you can readjust the lsn.

Tried to order a tuned 28 today and was told that the engine is discontinued and out of stock.

Is this engine now discontinued?

how is the bottom on the grp .21 engine

I dont know if its discontinued but A-main has it in stock atm.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/23450

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/23451

You're definitely right about that. I have my HSN almost at flush and my LSN at 2 turns in. So far so good. It doesn't sound like other engines in the market. Unlike the Novarossi engines which has a sharp crisp sound at top end, it has a muffled rumbled that can make you think you're running too rich until you see it bomb down the straight away. Hope everything goes well from here. Wish me luck and thank you everyone.

I have a NEW IN BOX GRP .28 Off-Road "Tuned" Competition Truggy Engine w/2053 Tuned Pipe
* Promo kit comes in handled box which also contains a manifold, EFRA pipe, embroidered GRP cap and more.
If you are interested please PM me.