My GRP hasn't seen over 200. I've only used GRP 4 plug. Im not really concerned about the light compression because it runs long and strong, I just can't find the idle sweet spot. I'll check for all possible air leaks and try it again.

I broke-in and raced 2 new GRPs last weekend. A tuned .28 and a Powerhouse .21 . On the .21 I ran a JP-1 (powerhouse recommended) a 6mm restrictor and, a MC-9 plug. On the tuned .28 I ran a MSR 1005 with a 6mm restrictor and, a O.S. P-3 plug. Both engines ran, tuned and idled flawlessly on Sidewinder 30%/12%. Both engines also ran in the 230 degree range. I was not overly impressed in the power department, but then again they don't have much fuel through them and they had 6mm restrictors. Also both engines, buggy and truggy were getting about 8.5 minuted per tank. I think the pipe choice and the engines still being tight had a little effect on the runtime and also running temps.

I will be trying different pipes next time, which may be several months before I get the chance to race again. Someone said a few posts earlier that these engines were "cold blooded". I disagree. Compared to my Werks engines the GRP's are great...

i hate to be the one to tell you this but if you keep running those engines at that temp you will not enjoy them for long these motors will not last at that temp they should not exceed 200 deg 180-190 is prefered:nod:

Alan, I plan to hand it to you in person this Sat.:nod:

Ok, so what am i suposed to do to drop the temps? Yeah I've heard that they run cooler but, they didn't want to for me. Any richer on the low end and they would load up at idle and through the infeild. Any richer on the top and they were gutless. I tried keeping them at 200 degrees and neither engine liked it. I'm open to sugjestions.

Ambient temp was about 62 degrees. Humidity was 25%-30%. I had a temp sensor mounted between the lowest fins on the head and cross checked the accuracy with a Exergen temp gun.

From what I understand and how Mr. Drake tunes his motor you are supposed to have the LSN as lean as you can get it and tune the HSN slightly rich. The leaner lsn will help it idle well and have a nice crisp bottom and the richer hsn will keep the engine well lubed on the straights.

That's what I started out trying on one engine and the results were not good so I never tried it with the other engine. The temps seemed to come down a little with each quallifier and as they droped I also leaned the top end a little to get a little more preformance. So I was assuming that they were going to run a little warm until they start to loosen up a little more.

Well they it is modded so maybe that's why it runs warmer.

John, your temps may not be out of line running the sidewinder with 12% oil. I used to run that fuel and when I switched to worlds blend or the 10% blend my temps dropped a lot. The more oil content seems to produce a little more heat and a little less power. I would try using the grp 2053 pipes with the engines if possible. I have both the .28 and the .21 and with the 2053 pipe the .28 is almost too much and it still gets 10 minutes a tank. Your fuel will probably not yield the runtimes most are getting either but I wouldn't concern myself with temps as long as it is still leaving a nice smoke trail.

Motor will run a little hotter when thay are new as long you have smoke you will be good.Temps will come down once you have a good gallon through it and the power will be good.

That sounds like a good answer. The engines were a little fat on top and smoking good but not excessively. The LSN on both engines were maybe a touch leaner than I would normaly run on a 10 tank engine but they would still load up just slightly sitting at an idle.

I used to run 10% oil sidewinder fuel but I seemed to me that the engines were showing wear earlier. The crank pins all seemed to show wear first, then the P/S didn't seem to last as long. So, I switched back to 12% oil and have had good results so far.

I agree the more oil should help with wear on the engine. It just runs differently than the new gen fuels on the market. That is why it is hard to tell someone if their engine is not tuned properly or running too hot. There are just too many variables. I would definately give the grp pipes a shot if you get a chance though.

Drake's link didn't mention anything about tuning, it was only the break-in procedure. I didn't know anything about the lean lsn and rich hsn. I looked back through the posts but nothing specific is mentioned about tuning procedure. Lets say if I go back to factory settings. Do I tune the lsn or hsn first? I tuned my novas from the top down and this doesn't work well with GRP.

The durability of the GRP pipes is holding me back. I'm lookin more at the 2060 or ninja 2042, maybe even a Bigboy.

Tune the LSN first then tune the HSN on the track as needed. This seems to work best with my engines.