GRP... Engine... Thread...
#706
i am happy with the bottom of the .21 i have in the truggy. 1 more day, and i will be on my second piston and sleeve for the buggy. almost 9 gallons, I'm happy with it. Also get to see if TKO ceramics will give it anymore power.
#709
I dunno, the two guys in my club who run the GRP .21(one in a MBX5T and the other in an 8IGHT-T) do nothing but dominate everyone every weekend. Their trucks seem to have plenty of bottom end.
I had a JPX .28 in my jammin truggy, one time myself and one of them exited the last turn to a very long straight and we were dead even the entire time. Maybe something was wrong with your motor even.
Anyone know where I can get this tool set? Haven't seen it for sale anywhere.
I had a JPX .28 in my jammin truggy, one time myself and one of them exited the last turn to a very long straight and we were dead even the entire time. Maybe something was wrong with your motor even.
Anyone know where I can get this tool set? Haven't seen it for sale anywhere.
#710
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,835
From: Birmingham Alabama
http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...dproduct=10023
It will make it to ya before the weekend. Let me see if I have some discount codes in any of my emails....
It will make it to ya before the weekend. Let me see if I have some discount codes in any of my emails....
#712
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,835
From: Birmingham Alabama
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#715
#716
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,835
From: Birmingham Alabama
4 turns out from closed or 4 turns in?
Not saying this is the case with you but a lot of guys tune the engine good or atleast it runs without flaming. It runs good and makes decent power, gets ok runtime. In the end life is cut short and the motor is not at it;s full potential because it's tuned with a "rich" bottom needle and a "lean" top needle, not the way this engine was designed to run.
So, it's easy to just look at the idle screw...if it's ran a pretty good ways in you know they got a rich bottom. If it's out pretty close to the outside(approx 2mm from flush), then you know the bottom was set correct. Or close.
I see all the time guys who say they are awesome and running 240. I know the engine is flip flopped with the needles. I have never seen a properly tuned one run over 200-205, with most cases being about 190 ish.
It's not a hard to tune engine, it's not finicky, once tuned I very rarely ever turn needles. Not all motors tune the same. So I think some guys get used to a vspec and then try there best to make this engine sound and tune like that.
Again, this may not be the case with you, just an observation on my part in the past
Not saying this is the case with you but a lot of guys tune the engine good or atleast it runs without flaming. It runs good and makes decent power, gets ok runtime. In the end life is cut short and the motor is not at it;s full potential because it's tuned with a "rich" bottom needle and a "lean" top needle, not the way this engine was designed to run.
So, it's easy to just look at the idle screw...if it's ran a pretty good ways in you know they got a rich bottom. If it's out pretty close to the outside(approx 2mm from flush), then you know the bottom was set correct. Or close.
I see all the time guys who say they are awesome and running 240. I know the engine is flip flopped with the needles. I have never seen a properly tuned one run over 200-205, with most cases being about 190 ish.
It's not a hard to tune engine, it's not finicky, once tuned I very rarely ever turn needles. Not all motors tune the same. So I think some guys get used to a vspec and then try there best to make this engine sound and tune like that.
Again, this may not be the case with you, just an observation on my part in the past
#717
I have to agree 110%. I see guys here that have always ran nova, vzb, or RB and think that the motor has to get around 230. I dont know how many times i have came in after a 10 minute qualifer and have my pit guy say 180, and drivers around me saying its to rich on the way down the ramp. This becomes funny because i normally am in the top 3 of my classes.
1 driver here was always running his GRP around 240, and i asked him to let me tune it. I got his temps around 190, and he said it had more power then it ever had.
1 driver here was always running his GRP around 240, and i asked him to let me tune it. I got his temps around 190, and he said it had more power then it ever had.
#718
About 4 turns out form closed. 2mm from flush sounds about where it was. LSN was 5.75 out from closed with the slide pulled out.
Yeah always ran 185 to 195 after I learned in the very beginning this motor's massive head deceives the temp. I also learned it would flame with a rich bottom, and would let you lean it out to a sick lean bog on top before I got to 240 temp range. I never had to move the needles more than 4 hours. More like 2 max either way.
Not sure why the bottom of the piston litterally fell off, but it did.
Yeah always ran 185 to 195 after I learned in the very beginning this motor's massive head deceives the temp. I also learned it would flame with a rich bottom, and would let you lean it out to a sick lean bog on top before I got to 240 temp range. I never had to move the needles more than 4 hours. More like 2 max either way.
Not sure why the bottom of the piston litterally fell off, but it did.
#719
I'm glad I see others had those engine temps, 180/190.. my GRP .21 in my PE ran those temps all summer and ran great also.. took two 1sts, and two 2nds and 2nd for the season. 5 race season..
#720
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,905
From: SOMEWHERE LUVIN ME SOME RC
4 turns out from closed or 4 turns in?
Not saying this is the case with you but a lot of guys tune the engine good or atleast it runs without flaming. It runs good and makes decent power, gets ok runtime. In the end life is cut short and the motor is not at it;s full potential because it's tuned with a "rich" bottom needle and a "lean" top needle, not the way this engine was designed to run.
So, it's easy to just look at the idle screw...if it's ran a pretty good ways in you know they got a rich bottom. If it's out pretty close to the outside(approx 2mm from flush), then you know the bottom was set correct. Or close.
I see all the time guys who say they are awesome and running 240. I know the engine is flip flopped with the needles. I have never seen a properly tuned one run over 200-205, with most cases being about 190 ish.
It's not a hard to tune engine, it's not finicky, once tuned I very rarely ever turn needles. Not all motors tune the same. So I think some guys get used to a vspec and then try there best to make this engine sound and tune like that.
Again, this may not be the case with you, just an observation on my part in the past
Not saying this is the case with you but a lot of guys tune the engine good or atleast it runs without flaming. It runs good and makes decent power, gets ok runtime. In the end life is cut short and the motor is not at it;s full potential because it's tuned with a "rich" bottom needle and a "lean" top needle, not the way this engine was designed to run.
So, it's easy to just look at the idle screw...if it's ran a pretty good ways in you know they got a rich bottom. If it's out pretty close to the outside(approx 2mm from flush), then you know the bottom was set correct. Or close.
I see all the time guys who say they are awesome and running 240. I know the engine is flip flopped with the needles. I have never seen a properly tuned one run over 200-205, with most cases being about 190 ish.
It's not a hard to tune engine, it's not finicky, once tuned I very rarely ever turn needles. Not all motors tune the same. So I think some guys get used to a vspec and then try there best to make this engine sound and tune like that.
Again, this may not be the case with you, just an observation on my part in the past




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