GRP... Engine... Thread...
#722
If you do a search of this thread for LSN or HSN you should get enough info to knwo where folks run the engine. Only slightly rich from those is where you need to be on the LSN. I'll let you do the research. Everyone wil have a slightly differente opinion as factory settings are still a mistery to everyone.
#723
Just skimming through here it looks like someone might need a bit of help on their needle settings. My personal experience with the GRP engines/carbs is that you can only set the idle speed screw and have it close to where it needs to be before you fire the engine up. I start my engines with the idle screw in from flush by .7mm (.030"). Some of my engines the bottom needle is out a lot, others it's flush with the chrome part on the barrell, same thing with the main needle also.
Initial tuning I fire engine up on the box, warm it up, tune the bottom needle until it idles consistently, I.E. the idle speed doesn't rise or fall after you rev and clean the engine out some. If idle falls, bottom is too righ, if it rises and goes a little irratic, it's too lean. Once bottom is set I tune top/main needle on the street or track. Then after 1-2 tanks I will set car on box again and check/listen to the idle speed and "tweak" bottom and idle screws if necessary.
Initial tuning I fire engine up on the box, warm it up, tune the bottom needle until it idles consistently, I.E. the idle speed doesn't rise or fall after you rev and clean the engine out some. If idle falls, bottom is too righ, if it rises and goes a little irratic, it's too lean. Once bottom is set I tune top/main needle on the street or track. Then after 1-2 tanks I will set car on box again and check/listen to the idle speed and "tweak" bottom and idle screws if necessary.
#724
Just skimming through here it looks like someone might need a bit of help on their needle settings. My personal experience with the GRP engines/carbs is that you can only set the idle speed screw and have it close to where it needs to be before you fire the engine up. I start my engines with the idle screw in from flush by .7mm (.030"). Some of my engines the bottom needle is out a lot, others it's flush with the chrome part on the barrell, same thing with the main needle also.
Initial tuning I fire engine up on the box, warm it up, tune the bottom needle until it idles consistently, I.E. the idle speed doesn't rise or fall after you rev and clean the engine out some. If idle falls, bottom is too righ, if it rises and goes a little irratic, it's too lean. Once bottom is set I tune top/main needle on the street or track. Then after 1-2 tanks I will set car on box again and check/listen to the idle speed and "tweak" bottom and idle screws if necessary.
Initial tuning I fire engine up on the box, warm it up, tune the bottom needle until it idles consistently, I.E. the idle speed doesn't rise or fall after you rev and clean the engine out some. If idle falls, bottom is too righ, if it rises and goes a little irratic, it's too lean. Once bottom is set I tune top/main needle on the street or track. Then after 1-2 tanks I will set car on box again and check/listen to the idle speed and "tweak" bottom and idle screws if necessary.
thats pretty close how i do mine. one thing tho i cant understand is my idle isnt irratic but when its idleing it raises rpm a little then drops back down. ive richend it with no success so i left it
#725
Tech Adept
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 150
From: Birmingham UK
Hi All
I am looking at getting one of these motors over xmas and was wondering what most people are running - Buggy or Rally
Also is the silver headed sport engine just the buggy spec with the std plug button?
Currently i use either RBws7 or OS VZB depending on the track so was looking at which engine would be similer to these in performance
Many Thanks
Lunie
I am looking at getting one of these motors over xmas and was wondering what most people are running - Buggy or Rally
Also is the silver headed sport engine just the buggy spec with the std plug button?
Currently i use either RBws7 or OS VZB depending on the track so was looking at which engine would be similer to these in performance
Many Thanks
Lunie
#726
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,905
From: SOMEWHERE LUVIN ME SOME RC
probably......4 quick heat cycles ......idle a full tank ......then probably .....4-5 tanks at 1/4,1,2,3/4 , full blips around .....then just easy on track .....a few tanks ....i mean ive kinda settled in on break in now ....and will probably just start and adjust like ive done on most of my motors ... just noticed the lsn looks like its way out at factory settings ...thanks buddy .....
#729
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,905
From: SOMEWHERE LUVIN ME SOME RC
#731
Tech Initiate
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 46
this question might have already been covered in the thread already (sorry if it has) i currently have a .21 buggy engine in my truggy, finding that i don't have enough low down power to punch out of the corners and i have had an opportunity to get a .28 at a reasonable price, so i was wondering if anyone knows what the run time is like with these. i know of another brand i can get that is a .25 6 port that i can get 10mins out of. so any help on this subject would be helpful.
cheers
cheers
#732
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 7,704
From: south florida
10 mins is pretty hard to get with a .28, what pipe combination are you running with your .21? i found with a ttr 2035 and os p3 plug and 7mm restrictor the grp had plenty of low end power for the truggy, the 2053 that came in the promo kit didnt seem to have the bottom end power, i dont think any of the factory drivers run the 28 in there truggies
#733
Tech Initiate
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 46
i run the 2053 in my .21 and a 6mm restrictor and get 11-12mins a tank, but im running a 14 tooth clutch bell and a 46 spur, even with a 13 on there i have people going past with 14's and .25 engines (low down i mean). but yeah i want to keep that 10+ run time.
I was thinking that with something like a .28 i could maybe restrict the throttle to say 70% and still have all that power on tap while never having to use all 100%.
I was thinking that with something like a .28 i could maybe restrict the throttle to say 70% and still have all that power on tap while never having to use all 100%.
#734
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 7,704
From: south florida
in a truggy you should be running a 13tooth, try the 13tooth and 7mm restrictor and that should help with the power, the 14 is for top end, it will hurt the low end especially in a heavy truggy
#735
this question might have already been covered in the thread already (sorry if it has) i currently have a .21 buggy engine in my truggy, finding that i don't have enough low down power to punch out of the corners and i have had an opportunity to get a .28 at a reasonable price, so i was wondering if anyone knows what the run time is like with these. i know of another brand i can get that is a .25 6 port that i can get 10mins out of. so any help on this subject would be helpful.
cheers
cheers
I don't think you need a .28, just a .21 with a good bottom end. v-spec, new ninja, orion crf, plus4 etc, hell, even the go 5 ports.



2Likes
i mean its been answered 50 times ....