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Originally Posted by ToysRUsKid
(Post 4840487)
So here's my not so short report on my R3RC...
I finished breaking it in yesterday at 301 raceway (amazing facility) and decided to run the club race with it. During break in, the temperature was at 170-190 and not until the last two tanks did it even break 200 degrees which was new to me. After the complete break in, I tuned it a bit for the first qual but the highest temp was 223 with 20% Trinity fuel. Then a friend at the track gave me 25% Byron's to try out. Right away, temp went back to 180%+, never expected that to happen. So I ran one qual with it thinking I had a good tune but it was way too rich, took forever to shift. For the next race I got a good tune and all of the sudden, I'm :batman: I pulled into the straight a few seconds after my buddy running a stock R3 and somehow, I made it out first ;) not to mention the down low power pulled me down the technical parts of the track with ease. I'm a B-main driver at best right now and at big races might end up in C-main but I love having this kind of power. I started out 11th of 12 racers and by lap 3, I was in second place. I could literally count the cars as I was blowing by them. Top temperature was 220 degrees, I'm switching to Byron's 25% (needless to say I guess). I ran with the original conrod although I'm going to switch it, and Jamie you got a PM coming. :cool: |
Originally Posted by Sandra
(Post 4840544)
Dorian it was a pleasure meeting you and I will see you in a couple of weeks. Oh and good job yesterday.
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It would have been a grate season with RB R3, if this would not have happened on the last race of this summer :(
http://fotki.lv/Agris_c/comments_23502600/ |
hey guys, i want to run a ws7III in a xray xt8, i did not have such good luck with the two c6's i had, and the ws has always been my favorite. i want to use this engine for the faster flowing tracks.i have some ideas on good combo's but wanted to get some advice from others. thanks
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crap wrong thread sorry.
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Anyone know where I can get a new piston/conrod for a Rody V-12? Thanks in advance!!
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lst2 manifold???
how do i put a rb concept tm928 i my lst2? i found a good deal on rcplanet.com for the engine, pipe, and manifold for $395.00 but the manifold looks like a buggy style one and the lst2's manifold is not like that. i know this is a popular engine for the lst2 just dont know enough i guess. any info will be appreciated and helpful. thanx, clay unruh::sweat:
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rb tm928 pipe???
im looking to buy a rb tm928 w/ roto-start conversion. i found a good deal at rcplanet.com. they have the engine by itself and they have a combo which comes w/ a pipe and manifold i guess its the recomended pipe for the928. i cant remember off hand what the spec # is. anyway you think i should go w/ that pipe or would somthing like the jp-3 be a better chioce. or somthing else? i like the jp line of pipes a whole lot. but i want to have the correct set-up not some fu@#$# upset up that isnt right. .im doing some serious bashing and a little racing w/ friends. if that matters. experienced rb guys only. thanx clay unruh
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http://rcspecial.com/news/?p=14715#more-14715
I think they meant 1/10 and 1/8 not 1/10 and 18?:weird: I'd like to keep track of what RB is doing this year. I was going to get an S5 for the 2009 season but since OS fixed my VG under warranty and I took a paycut at my job I'll be lucky to just break it in and buy fuel this season. I still want to keep track of RB as they will 99% be likely to be my next engine whenever that may be 2009, 2010? What's the scoop on the new engines? I can only find the pictures I posted, no news. Is it possible that they are a 9 port engine?! I'm guessing that may just as likely be a year 2009 designation (.9 in the name of the engine). The 3 offroad engines are the B.9, WS.9, and S.9 if you look at the business cards in front of each. |
Hello thread,well i think i officially just trashed my $280 engine before i even got to enjoy it.wonderful.Heres the deal.I just bought the s7 l2g .21 and i put it in my brand new hyper 9.I go to start it for the first time at factory settings and the damn thing wont turn over.I thought maybe i flooded it and took out the glow plug to check but a really foul smelling smoke came out and tok my breath away.Turns out i was cranking on the flywheel for a while and the fuel was never going to the engine for some unknown reason.Is it common for these engines to come from the factory not set right on the carbuartor?I finally got fuel to the engine and it just will not turn over for any reason.I loosened up the glow plug thinking theres just to much compression and to help.Any ideas?I just dont want to mess with the factory settings if i dont have to.Lots of dry smoke coming from the engine while trying to start though ;-(
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Originally Posted by clayc2727
(Post 5400260)
Hello thread,well i think i officially just trashed my $280 engine before i even got to enjoy it.wonderful.Heres the deal.I just bought the s7 l2g .21 and i put it in my brand new hyper 9.I go to start it for the first time at factory settings and the damn thing wont turn over.I thought maybe i flooded it and took out the glow plug to check but a really foul smelling smoke came out and tok my breath away.Turns out i was cranking on the flywheel for a while and the fuel was never going to the engine for some unknown reason.Is it common for these engines to come from the factory not set right on the carbuartor?I finally got fuel to the engine and it just will not turn over for any reason.I loosened up the glow plug thinking theres just to much compression and to help.Any ideas?I just dont want to mess with the factory settings if i dont have to.Lots of dry smoke coming from the engine while trying to start though ;-(
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Originally Posted by clayc2727
(Post 5400260)
Hello thread,well i think i officially just trashed my $280 engine before i even got to enjoy it.wonderful.Heres the deal.I just bought the s7 l2g .21 and i put it in my brand new hyper 9.I go to start it for the first time at factory settings and the damn thing wont turn over.I thought maybe i flooded it and took out the glow plug to check but a really foul smelling smoke came out and tok my breath away.Turns out i was cranking on the flywheel for a while and the fuel was never going to the engine for some unknown reason.Is it common for these engines to come from the factory not set right on the carbuartor?I finally got fuel to the engine and it just will not turn over for any reason.I loosened up the glow plug thinking theres just to much compression and to help.Any ideas?I just dont want to mess with the factory settings if i dont have to.Lots of dry smoke coming from the engine while trying to start though ;-(
that smoke is coming from the rubber wheel of your starter box. It's melting while trying to move your flywheel. As for the engine, your piston is stuck at top dead center, which is common for new engines. Take a screw driver pry your fly wheel loose, then heat the engine up with a blow dryer to about 80°C and then try to start it again. When starting, put your finger to close the exhaust tip for a few seconds to pump fuel into the engine. |
I'm looking to get a new engine for this year in my 8ight 2.0 buggy. I'm trying to decide between the S5, S7, or WS7. I have an RB 2045 pipe and 192 header that I would like to use, but I would buy a new pipe if the engine choice called for it.
I'm still fairly new to nitro so I'm looking for durability and reliability first and second, performance would be third on the list. Most of the tracks I'll be racing on are medium to large - for example The Farm 2 is a few miles from my home and will be open for club races this year. That of course is the largest track I'll be racing on, with the others going down to about half that size. I would really like more low end which makes me look to the S5, but I wonder if that will have the pull on these bigger tracks. Better fuel milage would be good too, I'm not a great driver so if I can make up some time by getting one less pit stop I could use that help. :nod: My first nitro engine was an S7 (older model) that I bought used with about 3 gallons on it. I put on another 4 without hardly ever touching the tune and that durability and ease of tune is what I loved most. So I guess what I'm asking is what model do you think is best for me? The price difference between the three is neglible to me, although cheaper is always better. What pipe and plug combo works with each model would be great information too! Side question - I've heard ceramic bearings are a good improvement. I was considering swapping both bearings for TKO ceramics after about a gallon of break in, any pros or cons to that? THANKS! |
Originally Posted by Miller_Time
(Post 5410925)
I'm looking to get a new engine for this year in my 8ight 2.0 buggy. I'm trying to decide between the S5, S7, or WS7. I have an RB 2045 pipe and 192 header that I would like to use, but I would buy a new pipe if the engine choice called for it.
I'm still fairly new to nitro so I'm looking for durability and reliability first and second, performance would be third on the list. Most of the tracks I'll be racing on are medium to large - for example The Farm 2 is a few miles from my home and will be open for club races this year. That of course is the largest track I'll be racing on, with the others going down to about half that size. I would really like more low end which makes me look to the S5, but I wonder if that will have the pull on these bigger tracks. Better fuel milage would be good too, I'm not a great driver so if I can make up some time by getting one less pit stop I could use that help. :nod: My first nitro engine was an S7 (older model) that I bought used with about 3 gallons on it. I put on another 4 without hardly ever touching the tune and that durability and ease of tune is what I loved most. So I guess what I'm asking is what model do you think is best for me? The price difference between the three is neglible to me, although cheaper is always better. What pipe and plug combo works with each model would be great information too! Side question - I've heard ceramic bearings are a good improvement. I was considering swapping both bearings for TKO ceramics after about a gallon of break in, any pros or cons to that? THANKS! I would go with the S5. Maybe put a turbo head on it from the WS7. Really the engine that worked well at the farm was the Novarossi +4. Its about the same thing as Rb quality wise. I'd stick to Rb/Novarossi bearings. They hold up well. I got 7 gallons on mine. Get an S5 and run it into the ground. I've seen the bearings, conrod, piston,sleeve all go 11 gallons with basic maintenance. No parts replacement! Okay maybe thats a stretch for most but don't just throw parts at a Rb make sure thier worn first. 2045 pipe or Dynamite 053, I keep a selection of plugs med-hot. Sidewinder 20%nitro 12% oil. |
Hi all,
I'll be switching to RB .12 (the new T.9, which seems to be essentially the same as the R3, only with a different cooling head) after running LRP engines for several years and I'm wondering which pipes would work well? RB itself seems to offer only one pipe, the EFRA #2604, I suppose this would work OK, but are there other good or better options? With the LRP (=Picco) engines I ran either Picco #2607 or LRP #2644 pipe. Please share your experience. |
c6bbt high speed needle o-ring installation
can anyone help with installation of NEW o-rings on the high speed needle? the needle just won't go back in with the new o-rings without destroying them even with lube.
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Major problem!!!
So I took my Hyper 9 to the track today for the forst time and I have a S7 L2G.I was running at 165 so I leaned it out around 1/4 turn.I then noticed performance suffering mitaly so I pulled er in and was running at 345F!!!!!!!WTF!!!Now,i only have 1/2 gallon through the engine.Is it trashed???Be honest.By,the way it was running at 345F for aprox 7 mins.
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1/4 turn is ALOT. Your engine might be harmed, but most likely its fine for the most part. Keep running it.
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Maybe, maybe not. Richen it back up and try again.
1/4 turn is a big change. try 1 hour adjustments in the future. |
Thanks guys,im hoping its good.I noticed what looked like a litle wear in the top 1/4 of the sleeve..Just a slight off colored wear..Is this a cause for concern?
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345? I'm sure you were hot if you say so. I haven't been able to get my car that hot without it leanbogging to the point where it stalls.
You weren't doing high speed runs on the street or in the open were you? Keep in mind the car leans out the faster it goes. If your useing good fuel watch for smoke for the first half of your straight. Its easy to tell if an engine went too lean. The sleeve will have verticle lines in it. Like a smooth spot then a regular spot then a smooth spot again. If you sleeve still looks uniform and has decent pinch and compression your fine, unless a bearing had metal to metal contact at speed due to no fuel oil. |
I am a relative noob to the nitro world and have just picked up an RB Speedline J3 engine. Can anyone shed any light on this engine, there seems to be a relative lack of info on the engine on the net. Is it similar to the original V12 turbo? Is it similar to the newer R3 ?
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Yes, i'd like to know more about the J3 aswell, i can not find any info on it anywhere, not even on the RB site.
My father is having all sorts of dramas trying to run it in (sticking to the instructions) It gets hot (not overly) but mainly because it won't run long enough. We aren't sure if its a engine problem or an issue with the clutch on his new Serpent 720 We havn't had this problem before with any OS or Novarossi engine we have. Only with a Collari that we would get it tuned well, run one tank through it, then the next it wouldn't run. It was the hardest to tune motor we have ever come across. We eventually shelved that motor |
Any good pipe i could pair the R3???
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Come on guys!
Doesn't anybody know anything about these RB motors. This engine is really getting to me. Its going to end up an expensive paper weight very soon. :flaming: Its just won't run any longer than 1/4 of a tank. Lean it, richen it high speed, low speed nothing seems to work. It does the opposite to everything i would thing, richen it and it gets hotter, leaning it doesn't help, still cuts out, and there is plenty of smoke. Again, only ever had a problem with this motor and a collari. Have several Nova Rossi's and OS motors and they never miss a beat |
contact rb directly, your account seems strange... you are richen it up and still nothing??:weird: check your spark if its a hot get rid of it and use a cold one(hope this helps)...
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Originally Posted by bd581
(Post 5599787)
Come on guys!
Doesn't anybody know anything about these RB motors. This engine is really getting to me. Its going to end up an expensive paper weight very soon. :flaming: Its just won't run any longer than 1/4 of a tank. Lean it, richen it high speed, low speed nothing seems to work. It does the opposite to everything i would thing, richen it and it gets hotter, leaning it doesn't help, still cuts out, and there is plenty of smoke. Again, only ever had a problem with this motor and a collari. Have several Nova Rossi's and OS motors and they never miss a beat |
change to another carb and try again...:nod:
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This engine is brand spanking new going into a brand new car, so it shouldn't have any air leaks or need a new carby.
We have however found that the low speed needle was pre set at one turn out from closed, the instructions say 2.5. Reset that, but still didn't change anything. It will start easy, run for maybe 3-4 minutes at slow speed then stop, and it cant restart, if you listen it sounds like the fuel is boiling inside the crank case. Head temp at the glow plug is 240deg F at that time. Temp guage has been checked and is accurate |
Two more things to try:
1. Try another fuel tank. 2. Try some fresh fuel. This sounds like a bad fuel issue to me. Seen it a hundred times. |
Originally Posted by bd581
(Post 5603306)
This engine is brand spanking new going into a brand new car, so it shouldn't have any air leaks or need a new carby.
We have however found that the low speed needle was pre set at one turn out from closed, the instructions say 2.5. Reset that, but still didn't change anything. It will start easy, run for maybe 3-4 minutes at slow speed then stop, and it cant restart, if you listen it sounds like the fuel is boiling inside the crank case. Head temp at the glow plug is 240deg F at that time. Temp guage has been checked and is accurate |
It seems we have found the problem.
The low speed needle was pre set far too lean. 1 1/2 turns to far. Took it back to what the instructions say, and, its not perfect yet, but its getting very close now. Either way. Why is there absolutely no information on this engine, not even by RB themselves? |
There have been a lot of changes at RB in the last few months. May take some time for them to get it all worked out. Plus, no more Rody to chat with :cry:
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Hi, I have now had some time to play with the J3, despite being a nitro noob, I managed to get a reasonable tune out of it after break-in. It has been on the track but appears to lack some pace compared to the cars running R3s (as expected). I will have to properly tune the clutch engangement but first impressions are that it will make for a good club-race engine.
I have opened it up and checked out the internals, all I can say is that it looks bread and butter, although surfaces look smooth and well machined, the sleeve isn't ported for flow etc.... |
Hey guys, I have a RB R3 motor and would like to know how soon after break-in do u suggest I change the rod? Does anyone know if the rod from the 353 is the same as the R3?
Thanks. |
rody left?? also anyone know anything on that new 9 port onroad?,,should be sweet
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anyone know were i can still find a rb tm923???
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Originally Posted by TommyBlazin
(Post 5623430)
rody left??
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Originally Posted by bd581
(Post 5611142)
It seems we have found the problem.
The low speed needle was pre set far too lean. 1 1/2 turns to far. Took it back to what the instructions say, and, its not perfect yet, but its getting very close now. Either way. Why is there absolutely no information on this engine, not even by RB themselves? cheers Alex.K |
RB T9 vs RB R3
hi, can i use R3 cooling head on T9, will it run hotter :sweat:(because they are different in size) thanks!
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