Just curious if rebuild kits are available for the MatrixRW.

Hi,
I have just picked up an NT-1 package with some RB engines 1 x Matrix and 2 x RB-R3 Murnan modifieds so I look forward to hearing good things about these engines.............:nod:

We still have parts available for the Matrix series.:nod:

You will not be disapointed in the R3's performance.:tire:

Hi,
I have not run the R3's yet the Matrix is plenty fast enough for me at the moment until I get the car to handle a bit better anyway.............:nod:

Where can those parts be had? Time to search the internet:batman:

You can order through A Main Hobbies.

Jamie, I am going to purchase an S7/2045 combo this week. I run 20% Byron's fuel. My question is, do I have to take out a shim to run 20%? If so which one.

I would say leave it alone. It will run great on 20% with stock head clearance and plugs will last a long time. If you want a tiny bit more power you can pull a .1mm shim but you may have to go to a colder plug as well.

Thanks for your imput and advise wingracer. I have another question, what plug should I run? the weather here ranges from cool/dry 70's, to hot/humid 90's.

That motor is standard plug right? If so I would say start with a RB 6 for 20%. Maybe a 5 on really cool days. My buddies S3 seems to run best on the 6. I believe MC8's and whatever the medium O'donnel is work well too but I'm not up on my standard plugs anymore. I love turbo's.

Thanks Sean, you got to this before me.:tire:

Love those RB offroad motors...C6BBT times 2...:nod:

Just making sure, is the part number for the P/S/R for the MatrixRW 010112-011040?

010112_011041 is the part number for the 08' pre-hung set.

How can I get more bottom end

I have a RB R3, and a titanium ninja pipe, Any other pipes that are longer or something? I love this motor, fires right up, and runs, just a little low on bottom compared to some motors

Does anybody knows if the R3 RC version comes with ceramic bearings?

Also what is the best pipe combo for the above engine? 401? 2602?

Thanks Jamie!

if you want more bottom end use the RB 2604 pipe with a long header that should help

yes it does come with ceramic bearings and best pipe is once again RB 2604 pipe with either medium or short header depending on what you want more top speed go with short best all around go with medium

Hey guys I need some help ................I have a C6BB7T ...broken in .........finally tuned up and running well .
I have a issue though that I can't figure out . It "hangs" a idle at the end of a straight away .

I have lowered the idle

I have gone richer and leaner on the HSN and the LSN ...........

If I go richer on topend it goes away somewhat but the all around performance is horrible . Going leaner makes it worse of course .

Going leaner on the bottom end makes it WAY worse so I go as rich as I can on the bottom without hurting all around performance .

As I go even richer in the bottom end it "hangs" a idle for LESS time but it drowns the motor right out and won't even take off after 5 seconds .

Is this just a characteristic of these motors ? Is it because it's a turbo head ? I have heard that standard plug motors do less of this . Is my pressure line to short or too long ? I have checked for leaks and covered all the bases I think . Any help would be appreciated . Thanks Dave ........

It sounds like the balance between the LSN and the idle screw is out of whack. This problem is often caused by a too high idle setting being disguised by a too rich LSN. Takes a little tinkering to get it fixed but it's not hard once you have experienced it a time or two and figured out what to do.

Normally just richening the LSN will cure the problem but if it doesn't you may need to try something else. So here is what you do, run it and get it up to temp. Get the HSN set right and get it nice and hot. Come in and let it sit at idle. If the idle stays high for a long time just back off on the idle screw until the idle comes down and you should be set, or at least really close. If the idle is really fast for just a few seconds and then goes right down to a reasonable level then try leaning the LSN.

BUT HERE IS THE TRICK.

Leaning it sounds backward since it is going to make the problem worse but that is the idea. Lean the LSN a bit, go run a good hard lap and come in again. Keep doing this until the idle stays really high for a while (maybe 10 seconds or more) and then reduce the idle screw until you get a low, steady idle.

what gearing and clutch settings do you guys use for RB R3 on a mugen MTX4-R

Ok, I ran my S7 yesterday, and it ran great. I took the buggy apart and the front bearing is leaking. Will this cause tuning issues? Should I replace it? The engine is brand new.

Nope, run it.

Jamie;

What can I use to start the 523 in place of the EZ-start for the 1st gen maxx?

I'm going to try the ez first but would like to hear options.

Where to Buy RB?
 

Hello!

Jaime:

Where can I Buy Online: Piston, sleeve, bearings, conrod for my RBR3, also interested in the new version R3 RC where is it available in the USA?

Tanks

hey alll

just a cupple of questions about the Xenon ALPHA.

i have just done 2 tanks on a runin bench but after reading some of the earlya posts iam thinking to just stick it in the car from now, but i have a bit off ecperiance with the bench having run in a fair few RB C6 s on it.

also after the run in proses will i have to pre heat up to temp befor each run or will it be fine.

and just tune it the dsame way as i do with my C6 off road or will i need to have it sounding richer or so.

thanks heaps for your help

anything else i need to know just tell me lol

Jamie is at the nats so it might be a few days before he gets back. I'm there too but I brought a comp :D.

This week has been my first experience with the Xenon Alpha and it has taken a little getting used to. I would pre-heat it for the first several tanks. Maybe even the first half gallon or so. Tuning is a bit different as well. The new carb is great and holds a tune well but the motor seems to like a rich setting at first. I found that the motor needed to be rich enough to not even shift for the first few laps. It will clear up after a minute or so of running. Keep the low end nice and rich or it might get sluggish during the heat. Get it right and it's a missile.

For 30% (and maybe even 25%) add a .1mm head shim. I had a bit of a detonation problem but adding another shim did the trick and runs great.

2013 pipe is the ticket.

Did I mention I love the carb?

thanks hepas for the reply

i love the carb to it looks great.

only had 2 tanks through it now on the runin bench but cant wait to get it in the car.yer got the 2013 pipe for it. iam runny 25% mecca off road wich is apparently a re labled RB concept blend so i think its 11% oil or so.

Is the conrod for the R3 the same for the R3RC?

According to the manuals of the two engines they are the same. Also the Novarossi part # 07601 is the same.

Jamie, YGPM

Is that a fact???:weird:

Check your PM box.

Yes, the conrod for the R3 & R3RC are identical. Part # 01700_026

hi, where can i find the r3 combo with the 2604 pipe? thanks in advance

here...

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/18415

Got it, thanks!

I plan to swap out the conrod after the break in process for my R3RC. Is that a good ideal or not worth it?

Mostly i do break in and 1 race with the original conrod.
After that i change them around 6 litres.
The plus engines have such a pinch it's smart to change the first conrod earlier because of break in.

Some people change the conrod and keep it for break in of another engine.
I think that's really risky because you change the conrod of the heavy load it had during break in and then you going to re use it?.
Plus it already is worn in on the other crank pin.

So here's my not so short report on my R3RC...

I finished breaking it in yesterday at 301 raceway (amazing facility) and decided to run the club race with it.

During break in, the temperature was at 170-190 and not until the last two tanks did it even break 200 degrees which was new to me. After the complete break in, I tuned it a bit for the first qual but the highest temp was 223 with 20% Trinity fuel. Then a friend at the track gave me 25% Byron's to try out. Right away, temp went back to 180%+, never expected that to happen. So I ran one qual with it thinking I had a good tune but it was way too rich, took forever to shift.

For the next race I got a good tune and all of the sudden, I'm :batman:

I pulled into the straight a few seconds after my buddy running a stock R3 and somehow, I made it out first ;) not to mention the down low power pulled me down the technical parts of the track with ease.

I'm a B-main driver at best right now and at big races might end up in C-main but I love having this kind of power. I started out 11th of 12 racers and by lap 3, I was in second place. I could literally count the cars as I was blowing by them.

Top temperature was 220 degrees, I'm switching to Byron's 25% (needless to say I guess). I ran with the original conrod although I'm going to switch it, and Jamie you got a PM coming. :cool: