R/C Tech Forums - Go-Tech Engines Thread

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Quote:

Originally Posted by MassiveMods (Post 10845164)

I dont only mod older gx engines, in fact i havent modified a Go based engine since 2008. pretty much since the MG came out. Most people tend to think i only modify go engines but thats very far from the truth.

I have, before hearing about go engine modified well over 300 engines of all brands. And now thats all i do is mainly other brands, i repair go engines and service them just like any other brand.

So ive neve been exclusive to go interms of being a modder.

As for the new GX II HOE , it has some good points and some average ones. Things i wouldnt have done but its not my engine, i only really helped with the head design and some minor internal changes as suggestions. The rest of its timing and sleeve design was inspired by nova based engines as a guess.

The 3 needle carb imo as an addition was decided by someone that dosent have much idea of their customer base. I cant see the point in adding an extra needle that not many if anybody has a clue how it works. I mean i do, thats because its my job to know and in knowing this there is no point to it. It has nothing tomdo with mid range tansition. Which is the common thing people think its designed to do.

The problem with the msn is it adjusts the low speed setting, idle and hsn setting all at the same time. Now can anybody tell me why you would want to do that? changing one perametwr at a time on a carb is all anybody needs and is still confusing, let alone three things at the same time.

We all know when you change the set up of your suspension for eg, you do one thing, one ajustment, then go out and see what diference it made. If you ajust three things then go out and drive you wont be able to tell which onemit was that made a difference, this will confuse your over all knowledge ofmyour set up.

As far as my relationship with Go, i love everybody at go and naga with all my heart, they are my brothers, even whey they are stubborn :-) we still work together and they supply me with parts for my custom engines but i do not develop for them anymore. So we still have a working relationship and its a good one:-)

I only really do minor mods to my MG or Zilla engines for specific purposes, they are really all you need as stock but as it goes people love things being modified and so i squeeze or change it to their needs. Lately they have been seeling very well and im very happy with the engines. I have changed internals to locally made parts i thought could be improved on.

Sorry getting carried away.

Hope this helps :-)

M

Having run go engines for 4 years now, from the .21 Gold head seven ports, .25's , 5 port Gx series, MG66, Nova Rossi and RB's, now run the Zilla engines, tried both 3 needle carbies and 2 needle carbies on the Gx11's , have to agree that 3 needles works fine as long as the middle screw setting stays put. Touch it, and it takes a good ear and tuning knowledge to get it back on track. Had the middle setting loosen itself on one recently, after 4 tanks use. The only reason I knew it had shifted was I marked it from new, only 1/4 of a turn outwards, and the whole tunning went out the window. A new commer would still be trying to tune it I think.
Love me go's, but have to admit, the Zillas hold tune better, run hard, very responsive,and the"FINGER FEEDBACK" from the engine has to be tried to be belived.
Keep up the good work MR M.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SNOOKS (Post 10862712)

Having run go engines for 4 years now, from the .21 Gold head seven ports, .25's , 5 port Gx series, MG66, Nova Rossi and RB's, now run the Zilla engines, tried both 3 needle carbies and 2 needle carbies on the Gx11's , have to agree that 3 needles works fine as long as the middle screw setting stays put. Touch it, and it takes a good ear and tuning knowledge to get it back on track. Had the middle setting loosen itself on one recently, after 4 tanks use. The only reason I knew it had shifted was I marked it from new, only 1/4 of a turn outwards, and the whole tunning went out the window. A new commer would still be trying to tune it I think.
Love me go's, but have to admit, the Zillas hold tune better, run hard, very responsive,and the"FINGER FEEDBACK" from the engine has to be tried to be belived.
Keep up the good work MR M.

That's the trick with 3 needle carbs, Mark the mid range setting when new before you even run it, so know where it was set.
I'll stick with my MG66 carbs, but that's just me, just one less thing that can go wrong on race day :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by grizz1 (Post 10862618)

Yep, I think your right Craig. Pipe design looks identical to the 2072.
Probably made by Max Chen like a lot of the other GO, Alpha Plus etc pipes and headers.

The front chamber is narrowed up and the convergent cone is different.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flanno (Post 10863026)

+ 1 Flanno : MG66 Carbs nice allrounder, and easy to get good tune.

+1 on that from me too.. I spent weeks chasing my perfect tune with a 3 needle carb on my Mg66 modded.. just couldn't seem to get it quite right. the std MG66 carb with Marks modded needles I can set by eye in about 3 seconds and it rarely needs more than an hour or two of tweaking.. I've shoved a pair of the mod needles in the zilla and I'm not touching it again.. it's just short of uncontrollable in the XB9.. exactly what the doctor ordered.

ps the 3 needle carb saga ended with a motor explosion.. I'm sure nothing to do with the carb as after taking a hacksaw to the case to get the sleeve etc out as it was utterly locked in there I found the piston wrist pin in about 6 pieces several of which had come out and done a luvverly job on the sleeve piston interface :eek: the GXII crank in it was undamaged luckily but the 3 needle carb will now fester in the bottom of my pit box forever .. RIP MG66 viva la zilla!

so there isnt a single person who knows the stock timing numbers on the GXII sleeve? Or induction opening and closing timing? Find it hard to believe that anyone could accurately modify these motors without knowing the stock timing first.....

Quote:

Originally Posted by rodcpierce (Post 10867323)

I'm curious to know why you need to know ?

As stated, if you were a modder you would be able to clock it yourself.

The reason I would like to know is so I don't have to buy a sleeve set just to check it. I don't run buggy or truggy but run go marine motors. And I do mod them myself and have the engine analysis software. But why not check numbers before purchase? This will tell me a few things. One if it is in fact different from the original. And two how much work I need to do to get it where I want it. I can shim the stock gx series sleeve .005 and get the transfer timing where I like it. Then just bump the exhaust port up by cutting the sleeve. Same with induction timing. Less I have to cut on a crank the better. Make sense? Very simple really. But I see mention of different timing and have yet to see any numbers posted of what those said numbers are in the gx2 sleeve. Would just like to know....

Quote:

Originally Posted by rodcpierce (Post 10867323)

If you have ever run a Zilla engine, I think you would agree the mods speak for themselves. Some figures just aren't written in the books for all to read.:nod:

No one seems to mod the GXII motors Rodney, they run great std so I doubt anyone has the measurements your looking for, have you asked GO for the specs? lol I doubt they would tell you either.

We must be getting good at tuning down here in NZ Shane :) our 3 needle GXII motors are going well and took yet another win yesterday :cool:

Quote:

Originally Posted by curacing2 (Post 10871201)

Agreed: the settings on the NZ website for the GX11 carbies from Shane are pretty spot on from experience. Might have to try one of MR M's MG66 carbies on aGX11 to compare.

Quote:

Originally Posted by curacing2 (Post 10871201)

Yes mate. I reckon between us we have the 3 needle sorted pretty darn good, and are getting the message out to the masses here nicely :nod:

The GXII-5RHO is winning club events every weekend here, not to mention either winning or featuring on the podium in pretty much every major event.
The unerring reliability and smooth power of the GXII-5RHO are making it immensley popular here in NZ.
The last three big national events held here saw half (or just over half) of the entrants running the GXII-5RHO and the odd GX Series motor - which is wicked brand representation (we are talking fields of 75 - 85 competitors).
The last two big events also saw 12 out of the 24 finalists in the Buggy A and Truggy A running the GXII-5RHO as well.
It's all GO "down under" :).

Its not a secret to success, numbers on a stock sleeve... Ill buy one and measure for myself. Thanks anyways.......

Quote:

Originally Posted by RodneyPierce (Post 10868972)

if you want boat racing use an MG66 PRS set , their timing will allow you to use a big prop and have more top end than the GXII out of the box..

then if you want to raise the ex port you can but dont go more than about .5 or youll go backwards.

let me know if you want one , i can also mod it for you then you can copy that for future.

let me know in PM

cheers

Quote:

Originally Posted by curacing2 (Post 10871201)

i agree theres no need to mod the GXII , its a ball tearer out of the box.

and just to clarify with the 3 needle carb. i wanted to ,make it clear that its not a bad carb. the decision to keep my range of engines 2 needle was based on their great performance and ease of operation. something thats very important in the nitro game.

the MG66 carb is the carb we used with adam alexander in Pattaya when we won truggy at Nitro Party 2009. if it can do that on that track against some of the best then i say its a good carb. Tuned it in under a minute just before we set out for the final and it didnt miss a beat.

so my opinion is based on a bit of my experience on using it.

Just an FYI Adams wife was his pit crew for the first few days of racing quals and she managed to get it pretty spot on. So props to her for her support.

Now as long as people know what the MSN does then youre fine. just mark it when its set right so when it shifts, and in my experience MSN needles can shift, just rurn it back.

M