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-   -   Go-Tech Engines Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/177028-go-tech-engines-thread.html)

AZTman 04-29-2012 01:39 PM


Originally Posted by grizz1 (Post 10667760)
Hi Travis,

The GO motors are pretty well sealed up, and the O Rings have great longevity.
At 6 - 7 gallons I would say the front bearing might be starting to call it a day. That would be your most common place for an air leak in the actual motor itself.
The bearings and all O rings are the same as the GX Series.

Front bearing 7 x 19 x 6
Rear bearing 14 x 25.4 x 6

When you pop the carb out, check the lower O Ring (OR-0004) that sits in the crankcase.
With the powerful servo's we use on the throttle these days it is possible to get some movement of the carb body when applying the brake hard. This can move the bottom of the carb throat around on this O Ring and chew it up a little.
If it looks a bit chewed or soft I would replace it, and the carb throat O Ring (OR-0014) just to be on the safe side.
The pinch bolt O Rings (OR-0032) are usually sweet, as is the back plate O Ring (OR-0003).

:)

Sweet! I have a new one in my box. I was already suspecting the bearing because things got really wet in that area, more than normal. I'll still test the carb to be safe, it's too easy to not do it while I have the motor apart. The LSN seemed very easy to turn. I may need to grab one for the GXII soon. Hey Matt you got any Go brand front steel bearings in stock still?

AZTman 04-29-2012 01:59 PM


Originally Posted by motomatt (Post 10667790)
Travis,
with the engine at operating temp and the glowplug out, check to see how much pinch it has. One of the first things to happen when the pinch is going is, the idle goes away. Then it will only idle with a large gap and rich bottom. I'm not saying that this is what's wrong, but it's worth checking.

I leak check engines by taking the engine out, adding a piece of fuel line to the carb fitting, then cover the carb and exhaust openings with a fingertip over each (glowplug still in place , of course). Submerge the engine in a sink of water and then blow into the fuel hose. The most common leaks I've seen are front bearing seal and low speed needle o-ring. If you manage to blow hard enough, you might see a small leak at the carb boot. If it isn't torn or have holes in it I wouldn't worry about it much. It's almost impossible to get a perfect seal at the slide.

Yes, bearings are the same GX5R and GXII5R-HO.

post with your results please.

Moto

Hey thanks for all the good info guys. Matt it definitely crossed my mind that it may be getting loose on me. When it got hot on the track the power went away, but it also does that when it's lean, and it definitely sounded lean when I came in to pit during the main. After a fuel stop it was ballistic on the track again from bottom to top end while it had fuel in the tank so I'm cautiously optimistic that the motor has a little more life left. I'll try to keep all of this in mind and post results.

Also, the outside temps are really rising here in AZ and I've spoken to several guys who are all suddenly having motor tuning problems just like me. They have found dried or cut Orings, bad bearings, etc. Normally the Go is super stable so I will do lots of checking, swap front bearing, and let you know if it's a problem with pinch, leak in bearing, leak in carb, or all of the above.
thanks again
Travis

motomatt 04-29-2012 03:57 PM


Originally Posted by AZTman (Post 10667813)
Hey Matt you got any Go brand front steel bearings in stock still?

all out of genuine GO fronts. :(
I have Avids in stock if you like.

Moto

MassiveMods 05-01-2012 03:11 PM


Originally Posted by Eivind E (Post 10666568)
I'd been breaking in the engine (GX-5R), and have probably ran 2.5-3 litres of fuel through it, and had it out of the car for other reasons, so I took the time to replace the conrod. When I looked at it, the upper hole in the conrod seemed slightly oval. I measured it at 4.08mm top to bottom, and 4mm side to side.
Was this conrod really in need of replacement or not?

I had bought a new conrod, but it is not exactly the same as the original one.
The original one had two oil holes in the top hole, one from the top and one from the bottom.
The new one only has a single top oil hole in the top. Does this matter? It is a genuine Go Engine part, I figure there are probably revisions of these.

Any ideas?

Next time I was thinking to use the slightly 2nd hand conrod I have now from the break in, for the next break in? would that be allright? Then I don't have to waste another rod?

Thats weird, theynshould have an oil hole in the bottom. Did the rod come in a go package? all go rods have an oil hole in the bottom. Where did you get the rod?

The gudgeon hole being oval is a bit of an illusion. The hole is champfered on the edge to get the c clip in easy. Unless the hole its self is oval, you can tell if the gudgeon pin has slop. If so id say it was a cold run in andmthe piston copped a beating.

Let me know what you find.

MassiveMods 05-01-2012 03:17 PM


Originally Posted by AZTman (Post 10667673)
I'm going to tear down my GX5R in search of air leaks. The tune was all over the place last night, wouldn't idle for anything until it was too rich with an idle gap too large, then would run lean and hot on the track. I know it sounds like the average woman tune, but when I leaned out the bottom and tried to close the gap it died very quickly on the stand. It has been a great motor so I'm sure I have a leak somewhere. Maybe 6.5-7gallons.


So.... I'll start by checking fuel and pressure lines, tank, O-rings in the hsn, lsn, idle screw, pinch screw, carb throat, boot, and the front bearing.

For the Go veterans, are there specific Orings or spots that are the most common where I should give extra scrutiny? Are they the same bearings for GX5R and GXII5RHO?

Have you tried flushing out the hsn? If not take the hsn out, spray some degreaser in the fuel nipple, get an ear bud and wipe out the hsn assembly, make sure its spotless in there and the needle. Check the seal on the lsn by removing it, if its broken or a reddish colour, replace it. Sometimes the old red seals make it out there and they are not good. Replace them with nitrile seals. We changed them over about 3 years ago but some are still in circulation.

Let me know :-)

Cheers m

AZTman 05-02-2012 01:07 AM

So far there's lots of worn seals. I'm swapping out the front bearing because it looked more wet than normal around that area. Both carb throat Orings were trash, one was actually broken and hanging on by pinch, the other was also worn out. The boot has a tear in it and blows bubbles in the water pressure test. I'm taking the motor to a local guy that has a bearing tool, so I may be racing again by Saturday. When it's heated, there is no much pinch


I'll let you know what it does with all the new seals.

grizz1 05-02-2012 01:43 PM


Originally Posted by AZTman (Post 10680404)
So far there's lots of worn seals. I'm swapping out the front bearing because it looked more wet than normal around that area. Both carb throat Orings were trash, one was actually broken and hanging on by pinch, the other was also worn out. The boot has a tear in it and blows bubbles in the water pressure test. I'm taking the motor to a local guy that has a bearing tool, so I may be racing again by Saturday. When it's heated, there is no much pinch


I'll let you know what it does with all the new seals.

Sounds like the old girl was in need of some TLC. Still, if it's been chugging along for 6 + gal and not been touched, that's a pretty good run :)

If those carb O Rings were trashed that badly, check the EPA setting on your brakes. The brake uses the carb and motor to "push off" if you like. If your running too much EPA you can "wobble" the carb each time you hit the brakes hard. As I mentioned earlier this can chew those O Rings up.

AZTman 05-02-2012 02:18 PM

No chugging, only screaming. Won a bunch of races in that span, too.
EPA is good right now. Over the last full year, who knows?
I may get the bearings done tonight, depending on work.

grizz1 05-02-2012 02:40 PM


Originally Posted by AZTman (Post 10682863)
No chugging, only screaming. Won a bunch of races in that span, too.
EPA is good right now. Over the last full year, who knows?
I may get the bearings done tonight, depending on work.

:cool: Screaming is good. That's what these little devils are made for.
Sounds like you are enjoying the motor :)
The other thing to check is the strength of the spring on the throttle link.
An overly strong spring can put undue pressure on the carb too.

With new bearings it should be good for more gallons of hard work :sneaky:

d45 05-03-2012 12:33 PM

Go Engine 3pt R
 
Hello, Does anyone know where I can get the Go Engine 3 port R engine. I had one awhile back and liked it alot. Or have the stopped making them?

grizz1 05-04-2012 01:14 AM


Originally Posted by d45 (Post 10687426)
Hello, Does anyone know where I can get the Go Engine 3 port R engine. I had one awhile back and liked it alot. Or have the stopped making them?

They are no longer in production. They are a couple of generations old now.
If you liked the power band of the 3R, then you would like the GX-3R which took over form the original Gen 5.5 motor you are refering to.
You may find a few GX-3R's floating around still.
I have several GX-3R PRS sets in my parts stock, but I am in the South Pacific, and I am guessing you are in the US.
By the time you add shipping etc it's probably not worth sending one over for you, that's assuming you can find a GX Series crankcase to put it in.

I have enough GX spares here to build you a complete GX-3R motor - but once again the logistics of getting it to you defeats the purpose most likely.

AZTman 05-08-2012 11:33 PM

I swapped both bearings, rear ceramic, cleaned motor parts some, applied new boot and Orings to carb throat, put the carb on the motor and realized I forgot to swap needle Orings. When I was trying to stuff the HSN back into the HSN inlet, I must have applied too much side load on the carb and now it wiggles. I know from old motors that the metallic carb cylinder has separated from the plastic carb body. I can get a new carb body cheap, but probly not for this weekend. If I goop up the motor/carb joint with enough RTV sealant, can I make it through a summer series opener on Saturday? Or can I JBWeld the metal back onto the plastic to eliminate wiggle?

motomatt 05-09-2012 05:40 AM

Travis,

Have any of your orders from me ever made it in two days?
I have a used GXII carb I could priority mail to you.
I'd have to know by 10 am (central).

AZTman 05-09-2012 12:25 PM


Originally Posted by motomatt (Post 10710727)
Travis,

Have any of your orders from me ever made it in two days?
I have a used GXII carb I could priority mail to you.
I'd have to know by 10 am (central).

No they haven't in the past, sorry. Like I said I think I got what I got for the weekend, so any advice? Should I pull it and use a Nova carb if I can find one from another racer?

MassiveMods 05-09-2012 03:48 PM

i have some R 3 ports left , pm me


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