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-   Offroad Nitro Engine Forum (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum-157/)
-   -   Go-Tech Engines Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/177028-go-tech-engines-thread.html)

Flanno 08-24-2011 01:06 AM

Try the GODZILLA thread. For info on the Zilla

Can contact Mark direct with a link posted ages ago, I'm sure some one will know where it is or have it and share it. For MG66 and Zilla imports.

Yep I Mentioned to Bazzil it may have been the ignitor that caused it to loosen.

I'm sure we shall see each other again Craig ..... some day.

TRy the Odonnel plugs rather than the GO plugs, they are also priced rite and seem more consistent... thou I haven't used GO plugs in quite a while they may be better now.

Herrsavage 08-24-2011 01:26 AM

On my last OD plug right now, and wouldn't know where to get more anyway.

Flanno 08-24-2011 02:56 AM

I think Tower Hobbies still has a special on.. I'm sure someone will confirm or correct me if I'm mistaken soon.

grizz1 08-24-2011 03:03 AM


Originally Posted by Herrsavage (Post 9566502)
Didn't get much feedback in the other Go thread, so I'll try again here: how are the Go T3 and T4 plugs? Need some turbo plugs (Go 3-port R, Argus A52, Go GX-5R, Picco P7R, etc..) and the Go's are priced right..

T3's are good for run-in, but we did find here that they didn't have anywhere near the life span of the OD97T. Same with the T4's. The 97T's would have to be the best plug by far for stock GO motors that we have come across in that price range.
In your neck of the woods you might like to try and source some INOX H6 plugs (by TecnoPower). These are very close to the OD97T in temp, and are especially made for off-road use in the Tecnomeccnica factory where the TecnoPower motors are produced. Any product with Rody Roem behind it will have quality stamped all over it. For you in Europe the price should be right. Food for thought :)

Hey Flanno - great to catch up bud :) Didn't get to see much of you over the weekend as you were a busy boy eh (wink wink).
You just know we will be back over some time. Maybe you could find your way over to NZ for our Nats in December :cool:

Flanno 08-24-2011 04:40 AM

yes pitting for 3 guys can get busy :lol:
(but I know what you were refering) :D

Maybe some day Grizz... December is a bit close and also same month as our Truggy Nationals, but maybe some day. :nod:

MassiveMods 09-22-2011 01:59 PM


Originally Posted by Loweredram (Post 9565915)
Hey does anyone know where or if massive mods motors or parts are available in the US. Ive been looking and can't find a distributor.

Thanks

We are still around , Mark is just so busy his time on the forums is scarce nowdays !

anything you need for MG66 or Godzilla 25 Race Spec BABY ZILLA 28 3 port ( for the bashers ) 21 range Zilla R1 Zilla R7 or Zilla R7 CERAMIK just email us at ORRR Zilla CERMAIK HPM ( its nuts )


[email protected]. Attention to, Mark or Sandy . We are selling big into the USA and Europe now but we only do bank transfer or money order. No CC or PayPal transactions .. if thats cool for you then fire away !

Mark is only hand making the ZIlla now because we make our own rods and hand prep and match the engine. Its a real ripper ! and it sounds different to normal engins... kinda like a loud F1 off road ..

we also have a series of matched pipes from Max Power and Go that work really well.

The big difference now is Mark has gone back to hand prepping everything. It makes all the diference.

Cheers guys , i look forwarsd to getting Mark to answer questions when he is back in the country !



Sandy

MassiveMods Australia

Flanno 09-22-2011 04:08 PM

For more info

There is also the MG66 thread

http://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-...ml#post9691106

Don't forget the GODZILLA thread :D

http://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-...odzilla-2.html

SNOOKS 10-07-2011 08:37 PM

A good hobby room to escape life's hassells
 
2 Attachment(s)
Escape is everything, as is a good supply of spares on the wall!!:D

Flanno 10-23-2011 11:35 AM

Noice :nod:

boomtheroom 10-25-2011 01:43 AM

hey there
[10/24/2011 6:43:27 PM] boomtheroom: have a bit of a problem..gx7r has now had 16 tanks through it and was going great..but all of a sudden it startet run really rich and dying..had a look and the carb is loose ..turns about 2 mil side to side...problem is the screw wont tighten any further and the carb wont come out even with the screw fully removed..any ideas?? msg me when ur online next please

Maximo 10-25-2011 06:29 AM


Originally Posted by boomtheroom (Post 9825810)
hey there
[10/24/2011 6:43:27 PM] boomtheroom: have a bit of a problem..gx7r has now had 16 tanks through it and was going great..but all of a sudden it startet run really rich and dying..had a look and the carb is loose ..turns about 2 mil side to side...problem is the screw wont tighten any further and the carb wont come out even with the screw fully removed..any ideas?? msg me when ur online next please

you need to sand the 2 halves of the carb cinch....right now they are bottoming out against each other before there is adequate clamping pressure....takes 2 minutes to fix

boomtheroom 10-25-2011 11:17 AM


Originally Posted by Maximo (Post 9826357)
you need to sand the 2 halves of the carb cinch....right now they are bottoming out against each other before there is adequate clamping pressure....takes 2 minutes to fix

problem is i can get the carb out.. :-<

Gizmatron 10-25-2011 11:40 AM

I've had this problem with a gx carb.. wasn't the screw at all the carb body was actually moving slightly inside the base insulating sleeve.About the same 2mm.. I took mine out and ran a tiny amount of cyano into the join with the o-ring removed and it sorted the problem.

rider313 10-25-2011 04:47 PM


Originally Posted by Gizmatron (Post 9827504)
I've had this problem with a gx carb.. wasn't the screw at all the carb body was actually moving slightly inside the base insulating sleeve.About the same 2mm.. I took mine out and ran a tiny amount of cyano into the join with the o-ring removed and it sorted the problem.

Same here.

To get the carb out put the screw back in about 3/4 way and tap it with something. Then the carb should come out.

Flanno 10-25-2011 08:19 PM


Originally Posted by Gizmatron (Post 9827504)
I've had this problem with a gx carb.. wasn't the screw at all the carb body was actually moving slightly inside the base insulating sleeve.About the same 2mm.. I took mine out and ran a tiny amount of cyano into the join with the o-ring removed and it sorted the problem.


Originally Posted by rider313 (Post 9828748)
Same here.

To get the carb out put the screw back in about 3/4 way and tap it with something. Then the carb should come out.

What is cyano ? Where ya get it etc etc .......

and +1 on carb removal :D


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