Guys, I have an older (1st generation, I believe) go 5 port engine, the one with the silver head. Is there a turbo head button I could get that would fit it? If some one could pm me a part number or a place I could get it, I would appreciate it.

Thanks, Mike

That should have a turbo head button on it Mike. Right from the early Pro Series models (like 6+ years ago) the GO engines have come standard with a turbo head.

Part number would be GO 21-0207 for the older Pro Series and early GX Series engines.
I probably have one in the workshop somewhere, but I am a long way from the USA. If you can't find one closer to home, get in touch.

Anybody know anything about the Go .28 MT engines - specifically the Redfire or Black Mamba? I need a dirt cheap .28 for my Ofna DM-1 and LST2's...

Bunch of Cera's available on ebay over here btw.. They good? Also, what's the 2103 piple like - as an all-rounder?.. (More keen to know about the .28's though...)

Regarding cera, my guess is something like gtr plus, 2103 is more a mid n top rpm pipe. I will break in my cera this weekend n give some feedback

anyone can assist on the break in needle setting for cera? or i just read through arrow engine thread?

I would try mid 1 1/2 out from flush, lsn flush and hsn in 1 turn from flush for break in on the 3 needle Go/Arrow/Cera carb.

Rex

Will do that. Guess this noon will start break in. Thanks

break in for 1.5 tank, yes, get the middle 1.5turn from flush, hsn 1 turn out form factory (factory setting was too much inside), lsn 1 turn in from factory (factory setting is 1 turn out from flush)

after the engine start to show sign of good idling, reduce the idle gap (factory setting something like 1.5mm), hope it help others with this feedback.

note: o.s P3 plug, fuel 25%/9% fully synthetic with 4oz Byron loop booster

Done 5 tanks, mid needle i set 2 turn out to get low idle. (leaning lsn n idle gap didnt help). So far... Is a responsive engine with arrow 2103 pipe

Shane, thank-you for the response. I think I found one closer to home, but if they don't have it I will be in touch. What is the best plug to run, OS P3 or OS P6?

Thanks again, Mike

You run what u want to run. If u switch plugs in the one u r running u r a fool. If u do u r on ur own because obviously I have no idea what I am talking about!!

E, wrong engine, not talking about the engine I got from you! This is regarding the original CEO modded engine I bought years ago. I want to get a turbo head button for it (referenced above) and I want to know what plug to run in it! Nothing to do with the motor I got from you. I obviously already know what plug to run in it. Obviously the exact same plug you ran in it! Jeez!!

I run P3 in cold temps and P4 in warm temps. Both plugs work. P6 might be too cold of a plus unless you are running in death valley.

Just an update on GXII plus. I ran it 2 weekend ago in Chula vista at Mugen Seiki series race. Didn't do well in qualifiers but bump from the B main to A main. Started 12 on the grid and work my way up to second but bobbled on the last lap and finished 4th. The motor ran flawlessly. Using a P4 plug. Could use a little more power but the motor is still breaking in and to be safe on the richer side of race tune. I have a hair over a gallon on the motor now. Running 2072 pipe and 7mm venturi. Once she is fully broken in will drop down to 6 or 6.5mm venturi for better fuel milage. The motor pinch during break in was really really tight. Pre heated and put several tanks on the bench thru the motor with several heat cycles keeping motor temps around 220. These motor have more pinch than my novarossi's did. Could be a good thing if broken in properly but not so good if you are inexperienced at breaking in motors. New US importer has been really helpful, and have engines and parts in stock!

I have been using the OS P4 & P5, mostly P4 for a while though, using them in my GX5 based modified engine, (NAA, Godzilla), it tunes easy using the P4 & runs great on 25/10 nitro, plugs have lasted a long time to, haven't actually had one really fail.
The P4 is still a pretty hot plug & would probably hold together longer than a P3 as it has a thicker coil, through summer I might change to the P5 if real hot but the P4 plugs have been great so far.

my cera did 10 tanks and found out that it will starve of fuel/,misfiring at WOT, very rich with aluminum foil to maintain temp 95-110celcius. argus t3 plug and show no sign of damage. Did replace 2 os p3 plug with no luck

hsn-3 turn out from total close
lsn-1.25 turn in from flush
msn-2 turn out from flush

any suggestion or i should try new plug? thanks in advance