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Good results for GO Engines during the 4th Stage of Chilean Nats, in Truggy Class (nitro) :
Engine Used : GO .21 7 Ports http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...odiotruggy.jpg http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...uggyPodium.jpg cya ! |
Originally Posted by Tabushi
(Post 9186753)
Good results for GO Engines during the 4th Stage of Chilean Nats, in Truggy Class (nitro) :
Engine Used : GO .21 7 Ports http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...odiotruggy.jpg http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...uggyPodium.jpg cya ! |
Congrats Pato!
Rob... looks dialed! |
Originally Posted by deadmancourt
(Post 9186813)
Way to GO Pato!....congrats:eek:
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Originally Posted by inferno13
(Post 9189919)
shows ya how good them GO-ENGINES are! he took first with no tires...:lol::lol::lol:
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Hi guys, takin on board the advice for the jvd 4 shoe clutch on the new go gxii for better fuel economy and a smoother drive, goin to use 2 gold and 2 green springs this weekend, should the springs be every second one on the clutch shoes or 2 green together and then 2 gold or does it matter? Shoes are all aluminium type
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Originally Posted by jasjud808
(Post 9192613)
Hi guys, takin on board the advice for the jvd 4 shoe clutch on the new go gxii for better fuel economy and a smoother drive, goin to use 2 gold and 2 green springs this weekend, should the springs be every second one on the clutch shoes or 2 green together and then 2 gold or does it matter? Shoes are all aluminium type
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+1
That's how you get the long life on the clutch bearings with the 4 shoe. As long as the two sets of spings that are directly opposite each are the same strength, and engage at the same tiime, your clutch bell will always remain centred and will never put side stress on the bearings. If you find the 2 x gold springs and 2 x green springs with the alloy shoes is still a little much, try 2 x green springs with carbon shoes and 2 x gold springs with alloy shoes. This is a very smooth set up. Great for lightly dusty tracks or really slick surfaces. The Ascendancy clutch ROCKS, and is a perfect match for the power band of the GXII-5RHO :cool: |
Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 6870305)
If the low speed needle stays in the receiver jet even at full throttle, then you have a long needle carb. If it pulls out at aroound 3/4 throttle, then you have the short needle carb.
I have a Go GX5R, serial number US0000084. I read your post on the tech forum, about the long needle and short needle. However I was not sure what it meant. You said that "if the needle stays in the receiver jet then...".. But what is the receiver jet? Is the receiver jet the big giant hole you see when staring down the barrell of the carb? Or is the receiver jet the tiny little nipple you see on the left hand side, where the needle goes into? Because my needle exits this little nipple at about 50% throttle, and then at full throttle this needle is in the middle of the big giant hole in the barrell. Does this mean I have the older carb with the shorter needle? My engine has the orange cooling head with the lettering GX5-R, some stars, G-logo and some flames around it. Sticker on carb with G-logo. Yellow colored crank. Which gen. does it mean it is? |
Originally Posted by Eivind E
(Post 9199918)
I have a Go GX5R, serial number US0000084.
I read your post on the tech forum, about the long needle and short needle. However I was not sure what it meant. You said that "if the needle stays in the receiver jet then...".. But what is the receiver jet? Is the receiver jet the big giant hole you see when staring down the barrell of the carb? Or is the receiver jet the tiny little nipple you see on the left hand side, where the needle goes into? Because my needle exits this little nipple at about 50% throttle, and then at full throttle this needle is in the middle of the big giant hole in the barrell. Does this mean I have the older carb with the shorter needle? My engine has the orange cooling head with the lettering GX5-R, some stars, G-logo and some flames around it. Sticker on carb with G-logo. Yellow colored crank. Which gen. does it mean it is? http://nitro-north.com/go-engine-parts.html |
Hi guys,
just wanted to ask.... has issue (no biggie) setup Losi 2.0 GO GX2 Losi clutch shoes/spring 2 alum / gold 2 comp / green just like ... 2 alum / 1.0 and 2 composite / .9 on other clutch setup. Anyway. engine still rolls when i remove finger on throttle. Remove the engine.. (check if clutch shoes rub on bell which can cause the clutch to engage early..) but i spin the bell and it spins forever... I tried richening low end... same.. car still rolls. Also tried to lower the idle... car still rolls. I did lower the idle too much that cause to engine to die.. Local PRO racer suggest that the spings are too soft which causes the clutch to engage too early... I haven't tried to remove the bell to check ... as i was having too much fun that day that i ignored it... did 6 tanks straight on this situation, and no ill effect.. hope not... i think it was bad for the engine at this condition.. many thanks for the help... Jojo |
Whats the recommended or possible shimming options for a Go GX5R (not the II) running on 25% ?
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Originally Posted by LOSI123
(Post 9242175)
Whats the recommended or possible shimming options for a Go GX5R (not the II) running on 25% ?
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Originally Posted by inferno13
(Post 9242193)
after break in, 1 aluminum and 1 copper shim, before break in 1 aluminim and 2 copper.
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update on my "rolling" issue. Upon checking... 1 gold spring has lost tension. I can move the shoes back and forth 2 to 3 mm. I changed the "suspected" spring. Use the same shoes and also Losi Steel Flywheel and the issue is gone. Car/Engine was insane and i was driving "carefully". Joined local race sunday and was able to move to 1/4 finals, but drivetrain issue (actually my fault also, did not check).
thanks for all the help... |
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