R/C Tech Forums - Go-Tech Engines Thread

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Quote:

Originally Posted by bigmatt (Post 8531999)

I myself like to change them out when needed. The go engines are so tight to begin with that I feel the break in would only wear the ceramics out to soon making it a waste of money. The other point is the go bearings last a long time.
Moto,have you used the comp. engine heater in the 12v style? and could a person hook it up to a lipo battery that would also serve as a starter box battery?

I feel that the GOs are no longer so tight that they jeopardize the bearings when using a "proper" or gentle break-in. I installed ceramics in my GEN5 5 port after several gallons and on our long straight it just kept pulling and pulling (higher revs than I ever saw with steel bearings).

Matt- no, I haven't used the 12V model yet. Our track has 120V right at pit lane. I'm told they warm the engine even faster than the 120V (5 min vs. 10-15 min). Eric (the owner of Comp Heat) has been pretty serious about not exceeding 12V on this model. He recommends that any source that is actually over 12V be discharged down to 12V first.

Moto

free shipping

Quote:

Originally Posted by motomatt (Post 8531962)

Several engine manufacturers have started offering "CE" or ceramic rear bearings pre-installed in new engines. I'd love to see the GXII come "standard" with a ceramic rear bearing.

working on something along these lines. initially, it will have standard bearings.

Quote:

Originally Posted by grizz1 (Post 8530409)

I had the OFNA kit before I got the Hudy tool - Please don't take this the wrong way, but IMO the Hudy tool is a better option - that's why I upgraded.
Both are good tools. If you are only doing a few bearings a year for yourself and a couple of mates, the OFNA kit is cool. If like me you are changing quite a few sets of bearings, the Hudy engineering, and the versatility and speed of use of the Hudy tool make it a better option.
None of the Hudy stuff is cheap (like their drive pin tool etc), but they do make excellent, strong, long lasting precision tools that do make the job easier, which is why I reckon their stuff is worth the extra $$

NB: The Hudy tool is very similar to the GRP bearing tool that was around a while ago, until they burnt the factory down and destroyed everything :). I think they are on the market again now, but are way more expensive than the Hudy unit (but also include a sleeve puller etc).

The Hudy tool is an exact copy of the GRP tool..I bought a GRP a while ago for 30 bucks delivered cause 3 of the 6 jaws on the rear bearing grip had broken off..still worked fine with a bit of jiggling..The GRP units though were sold as complete separate units for .21 engines or .12-.15 engines ..and at $199 a piece..ouch..hudy sells two different sizes of jaws for the two engines and you can easily pull the center shaft (locks with a grub screw) and change them so you only need one tool for both engine sizes.I bought a set of Hudy .21 jaws to try on my GRP unit( $13 delivered from rcmushroom) and they are direct fit..just better quality steel IMHO. The center shaft on the GRP is just threadlocked solid into place instead of a grub screw.bit of heat and bingo..new tool..
The sleeve puller grizz1 is just a plastic collar that fitted over the 14mm bearing puller.It's the only bit I was missing from my kit but I'm pretty sure the exhaust gasket from a .12 size engine will do as a replacement.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ruune (Post 8532084)

working on something along these lines. initially, it will have standard bearings.

What we have been doing if the customer wanted ceramics, is to provide a service where we get the motor back in after 1.5 to 2 gal (when the rod can be removed more easily), change the rod as recommended and fit the ceramics at the same time.
I agree with Moto that the newer GX motors don't place anywhere near as much strain on the internals during break in - if it's done correctly. This is the snag in some cases. Most people follow the instructions, but there is always the one or two that have their own theories :rolleyes:
Unfortunately these are also normally the ones that pop up on the forums and tell everyone how crappy the motors or bearings you supplied them are - after doing a full meeting straight out of the box with no run in :(
That's pretty much why we do it the way we do.

The other reason being, it is nigh on impossible to get the rod off a brand new motor so you can fit the new bearings. They would have to be fitted in the factory I reckon. I can fit a new rod onto a new crank in the motor (with a little trickery), but I have yet to find a way to get the new rod off the crank on a brand new motor that has never been run. Not without using extreme force and doing horrible things that one shouldn't really be doing to a new motor :eek: .

The ceramics sure do make a difference to performance (especially if you fit main and front). Poor little motors really scream with the rolling resistance lowered :sneaky: :D

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gizmatron (Post 8532191)

Cheers Gizz. You Euro guys get all the good bits cheaper. I was quoted just on NZ$300 for the GRP tool. Which is why I held off (then the factory went up in smoke). Picked up the Hudy here from the NZ X-Ray distributor when they first came out for around $NZ120, so quite a saving.
Thanks for the tip on the sleeve puller, I will give that a try. Never have a problem with the GX sleeves, but a few of the older Pro Series sleeves could be seriously tight.

check this out!....Go Engine Cup 2011!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bYHkfd1sNoQ

Congratulations to Team Driver Ong Chee Yong winning first place in Malaysian Championships with the MG66 ; ) 120 driver enrties for this event ! Nice one Ong Congratulations Champ !!! ;)

http://www.buggy-sport.info/index.ph...=Yahoo!%20Mail

Congrats to team driver Matt " HAZMATT " Oxford dominating with a club championship win @ PDNR ! A MAin fuel and MG66 combo brings the results once again !

Cheers !

Go Engine .21 3 Port With Updated Carb

Quote:

Originally Posted by MassiveMods (Post 8561366)

Congrats to team driver Matt " HAZMATT " Oxford dominating with a club championship win @ PDNR ! A MAin fuel and MG66 combo brings the results once again !

Cheers !

MAN, check out that trophy !!

Congrats Matt. :D

Anyone have any X-Dyno sheets for the GO GX 3,5,7 engines or the MG66 ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by CHOAS (Post 8563199)

Anyone have any X-Dyno sheets for the GO GX 3,5,7 engines or the MG66 ?

Clockworks was going to do a MG66, but I don't think it happened. I think he had too many Go failures to get enthused about it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nitroexpress (Post 8563471)

Clockworks was going to do a MG66, but I don't think it happened. I think he had too many Go failures to get enthused about it.

have you seen the vids of him holding his motors WIDE OPEN the whole time:weird:....

Quote:

Originally Posted by deadmancourt (Post 8563491)

have you seen the vids of him holding his motors WIDE OPEN the whole time:weird:....

I have persinaly seen his motors run at the track and the are very fast. His wide open videos dont due them justice besides how much rpm they can build. Now they have a new track going up so i figure thats were his test videos will take place now.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rider313 (Post 8564142)

oh yeah, i have seen a couple clocked mills and they scream for sure....it just trips me out on the WOT you tube vids:lol:

If it's vids of a dyno run, that's exactly how they are done. The run starts at low rpm, the throttle is then opened fully, the rpm sensor sends rpm and rotational acceleration rate info to the software. The software does all the graphing.